Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Preventing Tomato Blight


  • Please log in to reply
22 replies to this topic

#16 HydroHarold OFFLINE  

HydroHarold
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 9622
  • 702 Thanks
  • 977 posts
  • Location: Mid Hudson NY

Posted July 10, 2013 - 07:49 PM

Are you all using blight resistant varieties?

 

I'z got "Beefsteak" and "Better Boy", I don't believe I saw "disease resistant" on the tag.  Makes no difference I guess, but, they are locally started just down the road.  I have to go there where I bought them and ask the experts...

 

BTW, LD...  you got that "Underlining Red Blight" again?  :D



#17 LilysDad ONLINE  

LilysDad

    Cat Lover

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 10443
  • 9,661 Thanks
  • 7,682 posts
  • Location: N. Illinois, DeKalb County

Posted July 10, 2013 - 08:14 PM

I'z got "Beefsteak" and "Better Boy", I don't believe I saw "disease resistant" on the tag. 

 

 

 

Step 2. Understand disease resistant codes

When a cultivar has been developed that is tested and confirmed to be resistant to a particular disease, it is given a designated letter (after its variety name) donating that disease. Multiple letters after a tomato variety name indicate that that type of tomato is resistant to more disease (all those indicated by the letters listed.) So the codes are a helpful tools in your hunt for disease resistant tomatoes for your garden.

An example

Tomato variety Abe Lincoln Improved is labeled with letters VFNASt. Following the tomato disease resistance code listed here, those letters indicate that it is been bred to be resistant to verticillium wilt, fursarium wilt, nematodes, Alternaria, and Stemphylium (gray leaf spot).

Tomato disease resistance codes
V Verticillium Wilt
F Fusarium Wilt
FF Fusarium, races 1 and 2
FFF Fusarium, races 1, 2, and 3
N Nematodes
A Alternaria
T Tobacco Mosaic Virus
St Stemphylium (Gray Leaf Spot)
TSWV Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus


 

Keep in mind that a tomato’s resistance label is simply an indicator. How the variety performs will depend on several different factors, including its environment, rainfall, soil content, and care.

 

 

 

BTW, LD...  you got that "Underlining Red Blight" again?  :D

To answer your second part, see my latest pertinent and well formed thread titled "How Annoying!!!".


  • boyscout862 said thank you

#18 HydroHarold OFFLINE  

HydroHarold
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 9622
  • 702 Thanks
  • 977 posts
  • Location: Mid Hudson NY

Posted July 11, 2013 - 11:37 PM

To answer your second part, see my latest pertinent and well formed thread titled "How Annoying!!!".

 

I don't know where you get your plants with all them tags and paperwork, but I see the guy on the side of the road, I drop the money in the grass, he opens his coat and hands me the plants in paper cups and I split...  no paper trail, no questions!

:D



#19 LilysDad ONLINE  

LilysDad

    Cat Lover

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 10443
  • 9,661 Thanks
  • 7,682 posts
  • Location: N. Illinois, DeKalb County

Posted July 12, 2013 - 06:53 AM

What a sordid way to approach your hobby! It's no wonder your plants all have diseases. As they say, "Don't put that tomato in your mouth. You don't know where it has been!"



#20 PaPasTractor OFFLINE  

PaPasTractor
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 9237
  • 197 Thanks
  • 158 posts
  • Location: Northern Indiana

Posted July 14, 2013 - 01:46 PM

My 4 plants so far are growing great (large plastic containers), lots of blossoms and normal growing plants.  With all the rain in this area I'm trying to remember where/what I read about controlling "blight" on tomatoes by adjusting Ph.  I can't remember whether it was with a spray on the plant or soil adjustment. 

 

I can't get all day sun or even 6 full hours in a row because of the neighbor's trees.  I moved everything to the sunniest spot on the lot...  Anybody have any suggestions or ideas?  I lost half the season's crop last year and all 6 plants the year before (REALLY wet

BONIDE: Liquid Copper Fungicide    thCAFQH69F.jpg

Used for Early Blight, Black Spot, Powdery Mildew and others.  I mix at 1oz to 1gal water and spray the entire plant including the underside of leafs.  Spray until it is dripping wet.  Spray every 7-14 days or after a heavy rain.  Best to spray before signs of disease appear.  If your plant is already infected it will not kill the disease but it will slow / stop its progress.  I have used this for several years now with great results.  Can be used right up till harvest.


I lay a 2" to 3" layer of straw around all my tomato plants to help with ground/dirt splash as stated in earlier post.  Also it helps keep the constant soil moisture they like so the plants don't get stressed when the hot summer heat gets here. It also keeps any tomatos that hang to the ground clean.

I always fertilize my tomatos when they start to set fruit with a balanced slow release (12-12-12) to help with plant stress which seems to help with the blight spread if they have it.  Also stated earlier give your plants plenty of room for air circulation if you have the room. Plants touching each other will spread blight from one plant to another.  Clipping the infected stems/leafs as stated eailer will help also, but hand & tool contact if you touch it will spread disease.
Burn or put infected clippings in plastic bag an dispose.  Also at the end of the season, I pull all my tomato plants and  dropped stems / leafs from the ground area and burn them.  Always try to rotate crop location every year.
                                                                                                                          Hope this helps. 

Tomato Blight  thCA53UVCE.jpg   thCADCG39D.jpg


Edited by PaPasTractor, July 14, 2013 - 04:10 PM.

  • skyrydr2, HydroHarold and LilysDad have said thanks

#21 HydroHarold OFFLINE  

HydroHarold
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 9622
  • 702 Thanks
  • 977 posts
  • Location: Mid Hudson NY

Posted July 14, 2013 - 10:08 PM

BONIDE: Liquid Copper Fungicide    attachicon.gifthCAFQH69F.jpg

Used for Early Blight, Black Spot, Powdery Mildew and others.  I mix at 1oz to 1gal water and spray the entire plant including the underside of leafs.  Spray until it is dripping wet.  Spray every 7-14 days or after a heavy rain.  Best to spray before signs of disease appear.  If your plant is already infected it will not kill the disease but it will slow / stop its progress.  I have used this for several years now with great results.  Can be used right up till harvest.

I lay a 2" to 3" layer of straw around all my tomato plants to help with ground/dirt splash as stated in earlier post.  Also it helps keep the constant soil moisture they like so the plants don't get stressed when the hot summer heat gets here. It also keeps any tomatos that hang to the ground clean.

I always fertilize my tomatos when they start to set fruit with a balanced slow release (12-12-12) to help with plant stress which seems to help with the blight spread if they have it.  Also stated earlier give your plants plenty of room for air circulation if you have the room. Plants touching each other will spread blight from one plant to another.  Clipping the infected stems/leafs as stated eailer will help also, but hand & tool contact if you touch it will spread disease.
Burn or put infected clippings in plastic bag an dispose.  Also at the end of the season, I pull all my tomato plants and  dropped stems / leafs from the ground area and burn them.  Always try to rotate crop location every year.
                                                                                                                          Hope this helps. 

Tomato Blight  attachicon.gifthCA53UVCE.jpg  attachicon.gifthCADCG39D.jpg

 

Thanks, just the "chemistry" I'm looking for!  I trimmed up my lower small branch starters for ground clearance tonight (all into the trash).  I always bag and toss my plants at the end of the year also ever since I had the big failure a couple years ago and started learning about the different tomato problems.

 

What's the wisdom of re-using the pots of soil/compost again next year for different plants, sorta like "crop rotation"?  I thought maybe flowers. (Everything in my "Grow or Die!" gardening regimen is in pots so I can move them as the sun moves behind trees during the season.  I need "shade tolerant" tomatoes!:D



#22 HydroHarold OFFLINE  

HydroHarold
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 9622
  • 702 Thanks
  • 977 posts
  • Location: Mid Hudson NY

Posted July 19, 2013 - 12:31 AM

BONIDE: Liquid Copper Fungicide    attachicon.gifthCAFQH69F.jpg
.
                                                                                                                          Hope this helps. 

Tomato Blight  attachicon.gifthCA53UVCE.jpg  attachicon.gifthCADCG39D.jpg

They didn't have that particular Bonide product, but I read everything they had on the shelf ("C'mon, c'mon, Mister, we're closing the store!" :D) and picked a Bonide product that specifically stated "for plants, vegatables" and "blight" was one of the things it works on.  Plants still are looking good and the spraying of the tomatoes will have to wait in the queue for the sprayer jobs. 

 

Thanks!!

 

BTW, Lily'sDad, I copied that handy secret tomato plant "code" so I can be a "more informed agricultural consumer" next year.  Afterall, I am now a regular watcher of RFD-TV and learning to be a real pot farmer...  Of course I mean "farming IN pots" not actually "farming POT" because we all know that's frowned on by the folks in the NSA, IRS, and FBI who are now monitoring our every typewritten word! :D :dancingbanana:

 

 


Edited by HydroHarold, July 19, 2013 - 12:36 AM.

  • PaPasTractor said thank you

#23 LilysDad ONLINE  

LilysDad

    Cat Lover

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 10443
  • 9,661 Thanks
  • 7,682 posts
  • Location: N. Illinois, DeKalb County

Posted July 19, 2013 - 06:30 AM

You old dog! You can still learn new stuff!!!


  • HydroHarold said thank you




Top