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L130 Automatic Hydro Problems

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#1 littlemarv OFFLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2013 - 09:37 PM

Hello all,


I am new to this site and need a little help.....


First off, about me.....


I have a few antique Allis Chalmers garden tractors that I love to tinker with, I spend a lot of time at the Simplicity and Allis Chalmers Garden Tractor Club website, but I joined this one to broaden my horizons.

I have a B-10 in pieces in my basement in the middle of a restore, a B-1 out back behind the shed waiting for resurrection, and a 416 hydro that I use for moldboard plowing, snow plowing, and tilling.


At any rate, I am working on my Dads John Deere L130 automatic. I was told by a friend who has worked on garden tractors his whole life that the L series is a "cheap" John Deere that replaced the Sabre line? He also said that the hydro's generally don't make it past 500 hours?


I've searched and found lots of bad comments on this tractor, but his seems O.K. thus far (350 hours)


The problem I'm having is it won't move very fast in reverse. You can't hardly back up any sort of a hill. It goes fine forward. I looked underneath it tonight thinking I would just adjust the linkage to get more stroke in reverse, but the linkage is a solid rod. All the pivot points on the forward/revese pedal assembly are each worn a bit which adds up to a lot of lost linkage travel. In fact, when you step on the reverse pedal, the forward pedal is actually hitting the front of the floorboard.


Is there a fix or modification to this? I though I read somewheres that you can put a different two pedal system on where the pedals are side by side rather than one through the floorboard?


Last resort, I could take the pedals off, weld the holes shut, and redrill to original size, that would get him a few years. How do you get the reverse pedal out from under the floorboard anyways?


2003 L130 automatic

Serial# GXL130A016760


Thanks in advance for all your help!



#2 crittersf1 OFFLINE  


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Posted July 09, 2013 - 09:50 PM


#3 JDBrian OFFLINE  


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Posted July 10, 2013 - 04:18 AM

Welcome to GTTalk. I had an LT160 which was the next step up in the Deere line from the bottom of the line L. It was weak in reverse also. I think you are on the right track by tightening up the linkage. Would it be easier to increase the diameter of the rod by bending a new one and bore the holes out to the new diameter than welding them shut and re drilling? If you do a search on Hydro problems with these tractors I think there may be a way to drain the oil and replace it. This can help extend the life of the transmission. 

#4 Alc ONLINE  



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Posted July 10, 2013 - 05:35 AM

Welcome to GTTalk !   I'm not sure what your linkage looks like but a few years ago the linkage on my 318 was worn where a roll pin went through so I ended up redilling to the next size roll pin and it seem to take out the slop , good luck !