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1886 Steering Bridge


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#1 oddfirecj5 OFFLINE  

oddfirecj5
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Posted June 29, 2013 - 04:20 PM

sorry for all the threads with questions but as my luck would have it things are not going well for me.

 i thought today i would work on the 1886. i received my used steering bridge from rick the other day. woke up thinking today is going to be a good day and had a couple cups of java.                                                went out to the barn to work on the tractor full of excitement. the parts tractor i have had a good steering shaft bushing so proceeded to tear into that first. after a few snags i finally got the steering wheel off to get the bushing to replace the other one. well wouldn't you know it the stud broke off the steering shaft while trying to remove the nut from the non parts tractor and was not able to remove the steering wheel. after seeing that the shaft would not fit through the hole in the tower i cut the shaft in half. good thing for a parts tractor. i can always weld the two back together later if need be.

 now comes the fun part of trying to get that steering bridge out. the old one was repaired very poorly and had i used it the thing would have broke. well another snag. the pin that goes through the lift cylinder is rusted to the cylinder and would't budge even with a 6lb sledge. it is now soaking with pb blaster and hope to free it up. i thought i would just try and get that rascal out anyways by disconnecting the hydraulic lines to the lift cylinder but no go.

 my question is finally...do you have to remove either the engine or trans axle in order to get the old one out and new one in? no matter how i positioned it the darn thing would not come out through the frame rails and the only way i see it going in is if i remove either one of those components. 



#2 oddfirecj5 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 04, 2013 - 07:20 PM

ok,

today i worked on the 1886. pulled the rear end out and the rock shaft assembly to remove the steering bridge. after getting in the new steering bridge and hooking up all the steering stuff i proceeded to removing the stuck pin in the lift cylinder. i tell you what that thing is stuck in there. i am hesitant on putting heat to it to loosen it up as i fear i might ruin the seals inside the cylinder. i have another cylinder from the parts tractor but it leaks. looks like i might just have it rebuilt.

 one thing i noticed is that both tractors have different sized shafts on the hydro units. i was going to use the split driveshaft instead of the solid one to make it easier for removal in the future but they are different sizes. has anyone else run into this?



#3 sodisr OFFLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2013 - 09:17 AM

ok,

today i worked on the 1886. pulled the rear end out and the rock shaft assembly to remove the steering bridge. after getting in the new steering bridge and hooking up all the steering stuff i proceeded to removing the stuck pin in the lift cylinder. i tell you what that thing is stuck in there. i am hesitant on putting heat to it to loosen it up as i fear i might ruin the seals inside the cylinder. i have another cylinder from the parts tractor but it leaks. looks like i might just have it rebuilt.

 one thing i noticed is that both tractors have different sized shafts on the hydro units. i was going to use the split driveshaft instead of the solid one to make it easier for removal in the future but they are different sizes. has anyone else run into this?

Yes and what I did was use the ends of my old U-jionts on the  one piece driveshaft and put them on the 2 pc. shaft..  So is the bushing for the steering  that hard to do ???



#4 oddfirecj5 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2013 - 03:37 PM

at the steering wheel? not that bad. all you have to do is take off the nut and cut a piece of pipe the same size as the tower opening and cut it apart just big enough to fit around the shaft. remove the cotter pin at the bottom of the shaft and lift up on the steering wheel. slide the piece of pipe around the shaft and position it so it rests on the tower opening. screw the nut back onto the shaft a few turns and smack it goo with a brass drift or someother soft metal and it should pop right out. once that is out all it is for the bushing in there is plastic. i will someday but a bearing in there but it's lasted this long so i'll keep the stock one until it's bad. 

 at the steering bridge it just pops out easily with the right size socket or pipe.


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#5 oddfirecj5 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 18, 2013 - 05:02 PM

got my lift cylinder rebuilt and back today. cost was $87 parts and labor. not too bad i guess. i am debating on either using the one piece driveshaft or have everything redone with the two piece. one of the u-joints need to be replaced while i'm in there. i should do both of them but trying to figure the best way to remove the shaft from the engine. my tierod tool (pickle fork) is not big enough to go over the shaft from the engine. anybody have any hints or tips on that?



#6 oddfirecj5 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 20, 2013 - 05:39 PM

well everything is back together. the tractor sure does whine when going in both forward and reverse. going in reverse it's really slow. i thought it would move a little faster in reverse than it does. 

 one of the things i noticed was when you take your foot off the pedal from going into reverse is it likes to jump or shudder. the pedal bounces uncontrollably until you put your foot back on to steady it out. 

 i checked fluid and it was down a bit because of me taking the lift cylinder off to be repaired. what i might do is change the fluid and the filter next week.

 

  these engines sure do run hot, holy cow. also i need to get the correct air filter as the one in there isnt tall enough and the outside of the air cleaner housing hits before making contact with the element. anybody have a part number for an air cleaner thats aftermarket? 






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