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My New To Me Jim Dandy


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#16 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 27, 2013 - 11:39 AM

The blower looks to have been built by Haban, so likely a chute off one of many makes will fit.  Looks like Massey blowers, even like the Bush Hog blowers.....all Haban built.

 

Yes, it is built by haban. I did not think about that!



#17 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 27, 2013 - 01:43 PM

I pressure washed the tractor, and mower deck. When I got all of the dirt off of the mower deck, I could see that there was way more rust and rot then I thought! I am going to have to cut out the entire section that is rotted, and weld in a new plate! Or, find another mower deck, but I have not seen any of these little 36" decks for sale. I could put a 48" deck on it, but the reason I wanted this to mow is because it is smaller then a Power King, and a 48" deck would kinda defeat the purpose. Plus, I don't think the 10hp engine could run a 48" deck.

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#18 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 27, 2013 - 02:55 PM

The heat and humidity outside is making it very hard to stay outside for very long. For the last several days I have been outside for about 45 minutes, then inside for 20 minutes, back outside for 45, and it just repeats. I read a post from Daniel the other day (I don't remember where it was), but he said that a hobby should be fun, and when it is this miserable out it is more like work; he is absolutely right, and that is why I have been coming inside as much as I have. Anyway, the Jim Dandy is in the garage, and waiting for me to take it apart to remove mouse nest that is likely in the engine shroud.


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#19 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted June 27, 2013 - 03:10 PM

I'm sure you can fix that deck, Ryan! You have the ability and know how! Cool tractor!


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#20 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 27, 2013 - 04:24 PM

I took the grill and gas tank off so I could get to the engine, and the first thing I did was take off the head cover, and head. At first, I was relieved that the piston rings and head gasket where still good; plus, other then a fine coat of carbon, there was no real buildup inside.

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When I turned the engine a little, I saw that the bore had some rust in it. Do you guys think this would come off with a hone?

70CB3B85-EF4D-4F91-AD2C-DF7C5E89B970-109

 

After I had the head off, I was just looking at the engine, and saw the bottom of the shroud was sitting on part of the frame! I took the shroud off to look at it, since it looked damaged... this is what I found! A huge hole! Then a second later I noticed that there was a BIG hole, that was patched over, and that the hole I was looking at was actually a hole that was made in the patch! The other hole can be seen from the inside, and is twice the size of this one!

89A2DAA4-76C3-4AA0-A0B6-CB59D2611082-109

 

With the shroud off, I could see that there was a good amount of oil on the block. Sorry for the poor picture.

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There is also quite a bit on the back.3F80960A-BB49-447E-91A8-0384E1AEE53E-109

 

The cooling fins on the head also have a lot of gunk in them; although, this looks like mouse nest. To my surprise, there was no evidence of mice ever being inside the engine shroud, but when I picked it up there was a big nest on top of the engine.

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When I took the gas tank off, I could feel that it was about half full; the gas cap was dented and would not come off, but I wanted to get it off so I could drain the fluid out. In order to get the cap off, I had to use a pair of big channel locks. Once I got the cap off, I questioned weather it was water, or gas in it! It did not smell like stale gas, it actually had no smell at all! When I dumped it out... yuck! It was dark brown! This tank would need some kind of coating before it could be used, but I do not plan on using it anyway; the tank it probably only one gallon, and I do not want to have to stop mowing for gas all the time. In the late 60s, the company changed gas tanks to one that holds around 3 gallons; in order to put one of those tanks in, all I would have to do is drill 4 holes for the mounting screws.



#21 Username OFFLINE  

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Posted June 27, 2013 - 06:34 PM

Just make sure your spark plug orientation is the same on the head for the different years as it seems they may be different locations.



#22 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 27, 2013 - 06:40 PM

Just make sure your spark plug orientation is the same on the head for the different years as it seems they may be different locations.


I am going to be using the same head? I am not sure I follow what you are trying to say.

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Posted June 27, 2013 - 07:17 PM

I am going to be using the same head? I am not sure I follow what you are trying to say.

You need to be sure the spark plug is in the correct location if you are going to use the tank mounted over the engine as it has an access hole through it.



#24 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 27, 2013 - 07:19 PM

You need to be sure the spark plug is in the correct location if you are going to use the tank mounted over the engine as it has an access hole through it.


Oh! Now I see what you are saying! I had not thought about that, I will have to look and see if it will work.

#25 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 12, 2013 - 09:18 AM

I guess I forgot to update you guys, about a week ago I finished up the braze on the shroud, and used a flap disk to make it look nice and smooth. I then put all of the covers back on. i had to spray the bottom where I welded and sanded so it would not rust, but I did not have any orange paint. I decided to just use some black and only paint the bottom where it needed it. I decided to just use the black because the grill would cover it anyway; although, when I put it back together I remembered that this early style grill will not cover it! Oh well.

 

A couple days ago, I put a battery on it but it was too dead to turn it over, so I charged it. Last night, I put it back in and turned it over. I just wanted to check for spark, and it has great spark! Now I just have to scrounge up a carb for it; the tractor has been sitting for however long with out the air filter on, so the insides appear to be seized. I am going to take it off to see if it is rebuild able within reason.


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#26 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2013 - 04:54 AM

I soak carb parts in Laquer Thinner, Acetone is close to same when I rebuild. In rare cases when they are reall stuck, I just give quick sandblast first, take apart as much as can, then soak in thinner. Sometimes I wire brush on my grinder head brush wheel, but you can't get into much with that size wheel. Let set in thinner overnight, just make sure to cover the whole thing or the parts. The paint will be bubblie in morning and you can blow it out, and reclean in cleaner liquid before blowing out again. Leave the choke and throttle plates alone, they may break off the screws if really crusty. Work the stuck parts with oil in them and they should become movable again.


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