Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Good Gas


  • Please log in to reply
30 replies to this topic

#1 DH1 ONLINE  

DH1

    Electric Tractors

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 62
  • 4,587 Thanks
  • 5,295 posts
  • Location: Markham Ontario Canada

Posted June 25, 2013 - 09:34 PM

How do you test gas?

How do you know the gas you have in your gas can is good?

 

Being trying to get my 16hp Kohler going and it won't run.

Tried different carbs, spark plugs but it won't run.

Motor has spark, good compression and ran before.

If I spray carb cleaner in the carb it fires and runs few seconds.

But won't run on gas, only kicks now and then.

 

How do I know the gas I have is good?

Bought 5gal last week, this is the gas I'm using but is it good???


  • Texas Deere and Horse, A.C.T. and JRJ have said thanks

#2 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

Texas Deere and Horse

    RED Wild Hogs, Horses & Deeres

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1435
  • 14,464 Thanks
  • 15,392 posts
  • Location: East of San Antonio Texas

Posted June 25, 2013 - 09:54 PM

Doug, Without sending it to a lab, I'm not sure how you can find out if it's any good. Have you checked around your area for someone who might sell Ethanol free Gas?


  • DH1 said thank you

#3 DH1 ONLINE  

DH1

    Electric Tractors

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 62
  • 4,587 Thanks
  • 5,295 posts
  • Location: Markham Ontario Canada

Posted June 25, 2013 - 09:58 PM

I'm thinking it's being tampered with, I don't want to put it, (1/2 5gal can) in something else to find out if it's good or not.

I guess I'm going to have to get some fresh gas tomorrow and try again???



#4 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

Texas Deere and Horse

    RED Wild Hogs, Horses & Deeres

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1435
  • 14,464 Thanks
  • 15,392 posts
  • Location: East of San Antonio Texas

Posted June 25, 2013 - 10:06 PM

Sometimes if it has water in it, you can see it in the bottom of the can looking down in the can.


  • DH1 said thank you

#5 Gtractor ONLINE  

Gtractor

    The Tractor Hoarder

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 782
  • 6,624 Thanks
  • 3,917 posts
  • Location: Chillicothe, MO

Posted June 25, 2013 - 10:08 PM

I use the lid off a rattlecan of paint or something similar.  Put  just enough in there to cover the bottom.  set it out in the middle of the driveway and throw a lit match in it.  If it burns its OK.  If after several attempts it won't light you have bad gas. 


  • DH1 said thank you

#6 TerryD OFFLINE  

TerryD

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 5916
  • 132 Thanks
  • 254 posts
  • Location: Missouri

Posted June 25, 2013 - 10:09 PM

Also, if using a metal can make sure it isn't rusty inside, or filter the rust particles out with a paint filter if you use it.
  • DH1 and hamman have said thanks

#7 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

Utah Smitty

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 5557
  • 1,643 Thanks
  • 1,746 posts
  • Location: Northern Utah

Posted June 25, 2013 - 10:21 PM

One of the sure fire ways to know if gas is bad is if it smells like lacquer... because that's what it's turning in to.

 

I suspect you have a fuel delivery problem, not bad gas.

 

If there was bad gas in the tank and carb, it could have gunked up (that's a scientific term) the holes to the main jet, or the screen in the settling bulb, or the float needle valve is stuck.

 

It's best to do the following with the carb off the engine, but if you're careful and have enough space, you can do it without removing the carb...

 

Start by getting a coffee can or something to catch some gas in, and pull the fuel line at the carb.  If gas runs out, the problem is in the carb. 

 

Carefully remove the nut on the bottom of the carb. It is generally brass and can strip or distort so use the right size wrench.  Some gas will likely come out when you remove the bowl so be prepared to catch it.

 

The bottom nut may be full of crud, and may have holes coming in from the sides that are plugged.  DON'T use a nail, dental pick, etc. to clean the holes as you can make them too large and mess up your carburetor. 

 

Spray with carb cleaner, or better yet, soak it in carb cleaner for several minutes. Take a piece of stranded 12 ga wire and strip about 1/2" from the end.  Use the individual strands of copper to clean out the holes. Twist the strands together and put it into the center of the nut to clean out anything that's collected there.  Spray liberally with carb cleaner, and blow with compressed air if you have it.

 

The main jet is in the center tube that's a part of the carb casting.  .Spray up into it, and use the copper "brush" as per the other parts.  Look carefully for any holes on the size of the center tube that may be plugged. Carefully clean them out as well.

 

Place a bowl under the carb body and carefully remove the hinge pin to the float.  Don't put any upward or downward pressure on the float as it may change your fuel level in the bowl.  CAUTION: The needle valve will either be attached with a thin spring to the float, or will drop out of it's seat so make sure you catch it in the bowl as well.

 

Spray cleaner into the fuel inlet... you should see liquid coming out of the needle seat.

 

Next, note the position of the screw slots on the idle and main adjusting screws.  Screw them carefully INWARDS, counting the turns. Just seat them lightly, then screw all the way out.  Use the spray tube on your can of cleaner to spray into their holes and clean them out.  Blow out with compressed air of you have it.

 

The screw needle valve on the top may be a long brass tube with a sharp end and small holes cross ways in it... clean those holes as well.

 

Spray some carb cleaner on the throttle and choke plates to remove any gunk.

 

Now, screw the two needle valves back going all the way in--seating lightly, then backing out the number of turns your counted before you removed them.

 

Slip the needle valve into it's hole and put the float in place... You may need to use a small screwdriver to hold it while you slide the float hinge pin in.

 

Clean the bowl gasket off if it dropped down with the bowl, otherwise, clean out the bowl itself and put it back on the carb.  Make sure there is a gasket between the head of the bottom nut and the bowl.  Also be sure you install the bowl straight so it doesn't leak or tear the gasket.

 

Hook the fuel line back up and turn the fuel on.  Wait a few moments, then try to start the engine. A little shot of WD40 can help it along.

 

That should take care of your problem.

 

Regards,

 

Smitty


  • DH1, Texas Deere and Horse, hamman and 8 others have said thanks

#8 Jack OFFLINE  

Jack
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 9304
  • 1,127 Thanks
  • 771 posts
  • Location: Fairfield Ohio

Posted June 25, 2013 - 10:29 PM

That was quite a write up. Well said Smitty.     :thumbs:


  • Utah Smitty said thank you

#9 willy OFFLINE  

willy

    New Member

  • Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 8423
  • 73 Thanks
  • 86 posts
  • Location: Salinas CA

Posted June 25, 2013 - 10:48 PM

    Don't use starter fluid , try gas in a spray bottle or  oil can . Ether is rough on a motor to high a flash point . WD will also work .


  • DH1 and Utah Smitty have said thanks

#10 lyall ONLINE  

lyall

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2180
  • 1,747 Thanks
  • 1,398 posts
  • Location: State Center, Iowa

Posted June 26, 2013 - 12:32 AM

other things to check

 

fuel pump, fuel tank filter, and/or  gas line filter

 

you might thing about replacing the gas line - old gas line can cause problems


  • DH1 said thank you

#11 A.C.T. OFFLINE  

A.C.T.

    Another Classic Tractor

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 11085
  • 2,363 Thanks
  • 2,496 posts
  • Location: Dalbo Minnesota

Posted June 26, 2013 - 01:21 AM

images 1.jpg


  • DH1 said thank you

#12 DH1 ONLINE  

DH1

    Electric Tractors

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 62
  • 4,587 Thanks
  • 5,295 posts
  • Location: Markham Ontario Canada

Posted June 26, 2013 - 04:50 AM

Cleaned out the fuel tank, new fuel lines, new fuel filter, new fuel pump tested and working, cleaned out the carbs all 3 of them I use a welding tip cleaner and compressed air in the small passages with carb cleaner to clean them out, tested float valve it works.

I got good spark tested by removing the plug and watching the plug fire, timing is set right, tried a different coil and spark plug.

 

Still won't run, going to try some fresh gas hopefully that's it.


  • Texas Deere and Horse said thank you

#13 KennyP ONLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 28,461 Thanks
  • 39,690 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted June 26, 2013 - 04:50 AM

I wouldn't think gas would go bad in a week! Unless the station you bought it from has low turnover rate. I buy most of my gas from Quik Trip around here because of the volume they sell. Got to be the freshest around! And I haven't had any fuel related problems in the PU or car.


  • DH1 said thank you

#14 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

Utah Smitty

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 5557
  • 1,643 Thanks
  • 1,746 posts
  • Location: Northern Utah

Posted June 26, 2013 - 04:52 AM

    Don't use starter fluid , try gas in a spray bottle or  oil can . Ether is rough on a motor to high a flash point . WD will also work .

Very True.  WD has some lube in it as well, helps prevent scuffing cylinder walls because the oil wash washed away.

 

Smitty


  • DH1 said thank you

#15 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

Utah Smitty

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 5557
  • 1,643 Thanks
  • 1,746 posts
  • Location: Northern Utah

Posted June 26, 2013 - 04:55 AM

Cleaned out the fuel tank, new fuel lines, new fuel filter, new fuel pump tested and working, cleaned out the carbs all 3 of them I use a welding tip cleaner and compressed air in the small passages with carb cleaner to clean them out, tested float valve it works.

I got good spark tested by removing the plug and watching the plug fire, timing is set right, tried a different coil and spark plug.

 

Still won't run, going to try some fresh gas hopefully that's it.

Have you checked your compression?  Is it possible a valve is stuck?

 

Smitty


  • DH1 said thank you




Top