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Power King Dump Tractor Build


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#91 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2013 - 01:40 PM

I have one question. The length of the frame is going to allow a lot of flexing. This is going to create a lot of misalignment between the transmission and differential. How are you going to compensate for that? 

The day after I got a rolling chassis put together, I noticed how much the frame flexed! It was pretty bad, but I knew that once I put the drive-train in, it would be much better. I figured that the drive tube, and frame rails would create a "triangle" which would be very strong. Even though that the engine is not bolted down at all yet, I can tell that it has become much stronger. Also, I am going to have to add more to the frame for the dump bed, and that will make it much stronger as well.



#92 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2013 - 02:29 PM

Due to the length, a bit of flex is good. You won't be running across concrete all it's life!


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#93 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2013 - 05:34 PM

  I'll tell you what I did and so far it has worked out. I used a shaft instead of a tube for the drive shaft. Near the center of the shaft I mounted a two bolt ball bearing pillow block on stiff rubber lord mounts. Each end of the shaft uses the Cub Cadet rag couplers. Your going to find that with a load such as hauling 55 gal. barrels of water or a box full of dirt that your tractor is going flex quite a bit. This is why full sized pickups and trucks have a rubber mounted hangar bearing in the center of the drive shaft. 

 If your method works out for you that's great. :thumbs:   If not you might want to try the shaft as it will flex more. 


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#94 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2013 - 10:09 PM

  I'll tell you what I did and so far it has worked out. I used a shaft instead of a tube for the drive shaft. Near the center of the shaft I mounted a two bolt ball bearing pillow block on stiff rubber lord mounts. Each end of the shaft uses the Cub Cadet rag couplers. Your going to find that with a load such as hauling 55 gal. barrels of water or a box full of dirt that your tractor is going flex quite a bit. This is why full sized pickups and trucks have a rubber mounted hangar bearing in the center of the drive shaft. 

 If your method works out for you that's great. :thumbs:   If not you might want to try the shaft as it will flex more. 

 

 

The drive tube does not turn, all it does it protect the actual drive-shaft that will be inside of it. Also, I am going to put a pillow bearing in it.


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#95 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2013 - 10:17 PM

OK now I follow you. Excuse me for a minute while I pull my foot out of my mouth.  :wallbanging:  I hate when I do that  :(

I'll try and follow this more closely.


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#96 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2013 - 10:22 PM

Today, I got the engine mounting plate made up. The plate itself I cut out of a large 6 gauge plate I have, it is approximately 10 inches by 15 1/2 inches. Once I had it cut out, I only had to drill 4 holes in it.

57217100-B996-428A-B990-73AFE897A748-472

 

The holes lined up perfectly with the holes in the oil pan! Here is how it sits on the frame.

9CCC9403-D185-42DA-8EBE-54B50A060D57-472

 

Here is the angle that the engine sits, relative to the frame rails.

3F50DE47-1173-4361-BFD4-29C0BD316494-472

 

When I made one cut, I must not have had my guide straight, because the cut is not even with the frame. I can easily fix this with a little grinding.

CA8AC19C-9B13-4E0F-9933-2E8416A7A4C2-472

 

The next thing I have to do is tack the engine mounting plate down, and make the drive shaft. I do not want to completely weld the plate on, because if something is not perfectly straight then the drive shaft will be putting unnecessary pressure on the bearings in the tranny and the differential; that means I will have to cut the welds to move the engine plate to a position where there is no tension on the bearings.



#97 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2013 - 10:25 PM

OK now I follow you. Excuse me for a minute while I pull my foot out of my mouth.  :wallbanging:  I hate when I do that  :(

I'll try and follow this more closely.

 

No worries, it happens to all of us from time to time.


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#98 TomLGT195 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 25, 2013 - 07:20 PM

Nice job! I just caught up since the first few posts. Can't wait to see the final product. Will the bed dump?
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#99 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 25, 2013 - 08:25 PM

Nice job! I just caught up since the first few posts. Can't wait to see the final product. Will the bed dump?

 

Yes, the bed will dump. I originally planned on putting hydraulics on it to dump, but now I might do electric? I think that it would likely be cheaper, and I could probably a neater job without all of the hoses, pump, tanks, etc.


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#100 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted August 25, 2013 - 09:58 PM

Yes, the bed will dump. I originally planned on putting hydraulics on it to dump, but now I might do electric? I think that it would likely be cheaper, and I could probably a neater job without all of the hoses, pump, tanks, etc.

 

Ryan, Run steel lines down the frame rails, it will look great.



#101 Austen ONLINE  

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Posted August 27, 2013 - 09:39 PM

Nice work!



#102 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 04, 2013 - 10:52 AM

Right now I am pretty much on hold until I get a drive shaft made; although, I can still work on the rear part of the frame. Last night, I got these pieces cut.

93EFA927-98A9-4564-B0FC-72497205FB74-192

 

They go onto the back of the frame in this orientation.

984A438A-3AED-46DE-9BF9-02770ADAD462-192

 

Once I figure out how long the bed will extend forward, I will put two pieces of channel that go from the top corners of the "box" forward parallel to the frame rails, they will stop at the front of the bed and will have pieces going between the front of them and the main frame rails; this will be where the bed sits when it is down.

 

On the back of this boxed in area, I am going to put a 3/8 plate. On the plate, I will have two 1/2" D-rings; I am also going to put a receiver tube on it so I can change to different hitches for different things.


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#103 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 18, 2013 - 05:44 PM

I have been very busy, so I have not had a lot of time to work on this; besides, the next step was the driveshaft, and I wanted to wait until school started so I could bring it to welding class and do a better job. I brought it in on Monday, and at first both the my welding teacher, and the machine shop teacher next door looked at me like I was crazy! Then, I told them I wanted to take a piece of thick round stock and drill a hole in each side, cut the original driveshaft in half, then stick one half of the shaft in one hole of the extension, and the same for the other side. Then, weld it. It turns out, that in the machine shop, there was quite a bit of 1 1/4" round stock that will work perfect! The original driveshaft is 3/4" so it will give me 1/4" all the way around the shaft which will be enough.

 

Today, I gave all of the measurements needed to make the extension to the machine shop teacher. He said he will get one of the second year students on it as soon as he can. I did not want to pressure him to hurry, since it is the beginning of the school year still and I also don't want to tick him off... never know what I might need him to make for me next. :smilewink:


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#104 gopher OFFLINE  

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Posted September 18, 2013 - 06:02 PM

Ryan if your motor has to set at angle you can go to fastenal  to get tapered washers to put under motor then you can keep your mounting plate down flat.  



#105 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted September 20, 2013 - 08:16 PM

Why aren't you making engine mounts on angle irons Just like orig PK did??? That way you can tilt more or less if needed and even slide back and forth with slotted center bolt off frame, just like orig. I would think you would not be able to weld up anything till it was all bolted up and see if any tensions.  I don't see how you can lengthen that driveshaft and keep it exactly straight and will have shake and wobble.  Just a note that Plastic Kings (85 and up) came with a solid driveshaft when first made. Later they came with two-piece with rag joint in middle. BUT, the shafts also slipped into each other quite a ways to keep straight. Think there must have been vibration issues with those. They had u-joints in both ends and no tube tho. I didn't catch how much longer shaft needed to be, so maybe you are not going much longer?? Might consider getting two shafts and making just ONE joint with an outer sleeve over it to reduce chances of mis-align. Epay always has shafts pretty cheap. OR, jrhaines cab be contacted off one of his offers there He always treats me right on prices. He might even have couple old shafts with one end worn which you would be cutting off anyway that would be cheap. Not sure how hard to put in a center mount on the outer tube and expose shaft for a U-joint and have open shaft rest of way? Bearings made into each end of tube might have to be made up?  Just a thought. Drive shaft places can cut the tubes and shafts and align straighter I believe, might consider them.


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