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Power King Dump Tractor Build


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#76 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted August 16, 2013 - 05:08 PM

Give me forty acres & I turn this rig around!


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#77 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted August 16, 2013 - 05:12 PM

Limo tractor


"Jes Call me "Stretch"
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#78 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted August 16, 2013 - 10:20 PM

Ryan, Very nice work and you will pick up more tricks to use with the Plasma cutter. We use ours in the shop all the time.

 

Can't wait to see more progress on the build. :thumbs:


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#79 chris m OFFLINE  

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Posted August 16, 2013 - 10:27 PM

Ryan that is great! So are you planning to put the white ford car(LTD-2 / T-bird?) in the background on this frame :D

 

JK! It is coming along great and glad to see your making good use of the Plasma Cutter! :thumbs: And yes I am still alive, just real busy taking care of my Dad atm.


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#80 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 20, 2013 - 01:10 PM

Ryan that is great! So are you planning to put the white ford car(LTD-2 / T-bird?) in the background on this frame :D

 

JK! It is coming along great and glad to see your making good use of the Plasma Cutter! :thumbs: And yes I am still alive, just real busy taking care of my Dad atm.

 

Nope, I took the picture at that angle because it made it look longer. :D



#81 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 20, 2013 - 01:17 PM

The other day I got the rear flange welded to the pipe for the drive tube. I made sure to square it, tack it, then square it again, but it still ended up moving a little bit! The front of the tube ends up about 1" off center, which is quite a bit! I thought that maybe something in the rear was off, so I turned the pipe 180 degrees and it was 1" off center, the other direction, this tells me that it is actually that flange that is off. I am going to try and see if I can do something about it, without having to start over.

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#82 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted August 20, 2013 - 03:45 PM

Used my plasma cutter to remove a stuck bearing race on the silage chopper this morning.  If you turn them down, you can penetrate only as much as you want if you watch close.  I was out of acet. gas, so this was my only option at the moment.  I cut most of the way through the race down it's side, then hit it with a drift pin & that finished the separation.  Plasma's are the bomb!


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#83 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted August 20, 2013 - 03:48 PM

"Jes Call me "Stretch"

 

He needs to have a decal made up........  "Power Kiiiiiing"


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#84 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted August 20, 2013 - 05:08 PM

He needs to have a decal made up........  "Power Kiiiiiing"

Needs a few more iiiii's, Daniel!


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#85 UncleWillie ONLINE  

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Posted August 20, 2013 - 06:37 PM

Pooooooower Kiiiiiiiiiiiiiiing


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#86 dxman OFFLINE  

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Posted August 22, 2013 - 09:49 AM

Looking great!


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#87 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 23, 2013 - 09:59 PM

Turns out, that the tube was only 3/8" to 1/2" off, and not a full inch. Even though it was not very far off, I still wanted to straighten it out. To straighten it, the first thing I did was put a trap on the front, and pull the tube with the strap until it was where it needed to be.

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Then, HEAT!

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Once it was nice and hot, I stopped there and let it cool down.

DD336912-E6C2-4F0D-974A-F6AEEA3C076B-363

 

My idea was to put the pipe under tension with the strap, then when I applied the heat it would bend to where ever it had to bend to, in order to get the tension out. Since I had the strap holding it in one spot, that it where it it would end up being once it cooled off, and it worked perfectly!

 

With the tube now straight, I could get the front plate welded onto the pipe.

7932064E-59F0-4FCB-A2D9-8F0E7829F435-363

 

I was worried that I would end up doing the same thing to the front plate as I did the rear, and have it be off square. I was even more worried that if I squared it up wrong, then the plate would be rotated around the pipe and then the engine would not sit perfectly vertical. Well, somehow the stars aligned and so did everything else! As you can see, the gap between the wood and oil pan is no larger on one side then the other, which means I got it on there pretty well... as long as the board is not warped.

159411F0-260E-4B11-9976-E0FEEC86C2E5-363

 

Once I got the engine bolted to the drive tube, I could tell that all of the weight was flexing the tube downward. This, would have caused the drive shaft to not line up correctly.  In order to compensate for this, I took out the board that was holding the engine up, and let it hang. Then, I hit the differential where it goes into the final drives a few times and it rotated very easily. I hit it a few more times, and then checked to see how much tension was on the pipe still, by putting the board back under and lifting the engine by hand. I could tell the pipe was still flexing so I took the board out, and gave it a few more good hits. Now, there was no tension on the pipe! I may have to do this again when I set the final engine height, but that should not be a big deal.

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I set the original drive tube on top of the new one, for an idea of how much longer the new one is.

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#88 chris m OFFLINE  

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Posted August 23, 2013 - 10:21 PM

You are making some great progress Ryan! I know you have been busy (like me) so it's great to see you are still finding the time to work on this! Good luck and keep up the great work :thumbs:


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#89 Cvans OFFLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2013 - 01:07 PM

I have one question. The length of the frame is going to allow a lot of flexing. This is going to create a lot of misalignment between the transmission and differential. How are you going to compensate for that? 


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#90 Username OFFLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2013 - 01:29 PM

I have one question. The length of the frame is going to allow a lot of flexing. This is going to create a lot of misalignment between the transmission and differential. How are you going to compensate for that? 

A driveshaft tube flange would have to break to cause any misalignment and that could be a problem.


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