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Power King Dump Tractor Build


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#1 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2013 - 05:30 PM

A while ago I brought the '65 PK deluxe in the garage so I could get it running. My intention was to get it only running, and then leave it be until I  had material and time to start this project... before I knew  it all I had was a rolling chassis, and the engine torn down for a rebuild. I decided to just start the project when I could, and worry about the engine later. HERE is the thread I started when I brought it into the garage. Since the project is now underway, I wanted to start another thread for the build.

 

Since a picture is worth a thousand words, I will start off by posting a quick drawing I made on paint. This shows what I am shooting for here.

5741BDE7-E07A-4286-A11E-BC108DFCBB87-306

 

The first thing I need to do is make a new frame; I was going to just cutt of the back of the original frame and make it longer, but I decided I could make it look better with a completely new frame. Not to mention, I could make the new frame much stronger and beefier.

 

The bed, will be roughly 48" by 30" and will fit between the rear tires. I am not sure yet, but the bed will most likely end up being a steel frame, with a wood floor and sides.

 

The new frame I am making out of 3" x 1 3/8" x 3/16" channel iron. I did some planning before I got the steel and the new frame was going to be about 4 feet longer then the original. The channel iron I got is in 8 foot sections; it turns out that the original frame is 4 feet 2 inches shorter then one 8 foot section, so if I use one full piece for each frame rail it will be perfect!

 

With the longer frame, I will need to make a longer drive shaft. My plan for that is to just cut the original, and then stick each half into the end of a pipe and weld them in; however, the drive shaft on these tractors is not parallel to the frame, so I will have to raise the engine some. I am not sure how much it will have to go up, I need to do some measuring.


Edited by Ryan313, June 25, 2013 - 05:31 PM.

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#2 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2013 - 05:39 PM

The humidity has been making it very hard to stay outside for very long, so I did not get much done; although, I can now say that I have started building the new frame! This will be the very front of the frame. I cut a piece to length, and welded a plate on the back so the axle pivot pin will have less movement. I need to buy a big drill bit so I can make the center hole large enough for the axle pivot pin to go though.

A541B522-A8C3-4DE4-933F-1CC629916702-885

 

You can see in the picture above that I notched the ends; this will allow the ends to have a better fit-up with the channel iron that will form the side rails of the frame. As you can see, it is not the best fit-up.

0E8262CC-BCCA-4424-9E77-22AEB24FB707-885


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#3 Bmerf OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2013 - 05:40 PM

Good luck on the project Ryan, Keep us posted with plenty of build photos. This will be one interesting and useful machine when your are through.


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#4 superaben OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2013 - 06:17 PM

I'm looking forward to seeing what you make, Ryan.  Who knows?  After you get done you might have made something worth producing for sale!

 

Ben W.


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#5 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2013 - 06:56 PM

Just what I have been waiting for! A good build thread! Go, Ryan, GO!!!!


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#6 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2013 - 07:11 PM

Ryan, You are on a good project and I'm going to be following to see how it turns out. I know you can do it !


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#7 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2013 - 07:20 PM

Just to let you know, I moved the rear angle on a newer PK once to get the angle for driveshaft closer. If the tubes for the axle are not welded into the rear-end sides, you should be able to jar it some and move. The tubes are bolted to the gear case covers and can't be changed there. There should be a big hole in rear casting where tube is pressed in. Cars/trucks would have that welded to hold tubes in. Mine didn't have welds, just some silicone like filler in them. If yours is welded, they won't move. Not sure you could dig out that weld any easy way to get to release and move and re-tack when satisfied with angle. thinking maybe you will need a longer shaft with a U-joint in center to level it our to meet engine for that distance. I flipped my 85 rear which angled UP and when flipped was angled down. I put jack under it, and weighed down the frame, then it moved when I rapped the pinion area with big hammer. Didn't really have to hit too hard and it moved. It Would NOT move with just jacking, needed the rap on it to move. Moved easier after first hit. Maybe I was just lucky, but is now working in my Grumpy King tractor with old style drive line set-up.


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#8 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2013 - 07:57 PM

Excited & will be watching...great idea.


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#9 JRJ OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2013 - 08:14 PM

Ryan the fit you have for the channel appears to be good-remember you have to have room for penetration.

 

 

 

Dick


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#10 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2013 - 09:13 PM

Ryan the fit you have for the channel appears to be good-remember you have to have room for penetration.



Dick


You are right, that gap is small and will not hurt it any. I will still have to put a bevel on the inside edge of the side rails where the fit up is square though.

#11 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2013 - 09:16 PM

Just to let you know, I moved the rear angle on a newer PK once to get the angle for driveshaft closer. If the tubes for the axle are not welded into the rear-end sides, you should be able to jar it some and move. The tubes are bolted to the gear case covers and can't be changed there. There should be a big hole in rear casting where tube is pressed in. Cars/trucks would have that welded to hold tubes in. Mine didn't have welds, just some silicone like filler in them. If yours is welded, they won't move. Not sure you could dig out that weld any easy way to get to release and move and re-tack when satisfied with angle. thinking maybe you will need a longer shaft with a U-joint in center to level it our to meet engine for that distance. I flipped my 85 rear which angled UP and when flipped was angled down. I put jack under it, and weighed down the frame, then it moved when I rapped the pinion area with big hammer. Didn't really have to hit too hard and it moved. It Would NOT move with just jacking, needed the rap on it to move. Moved easier after first hit. Maybe I was just lucky, but is now working in my Grumpy King tractor with old style drive line set-up.


I knew it should turn, but I could not remember how you did yours! After I read this it made more sense but not perfect. I just looked in one of my parts breakdowns and now it makes perfect sense! And no, mine are not welded!

#12 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 28, 2013 - 12:21 PM

I decided to drill the holes for the rod that the brake pedals pivot on today. In order to keep the pedals from sliding over into the open part of the channel, I had to weld a piece of flat stock into the side of the channel.

BB08EA9A-6506-4986-AD69-F9B050CCE691-221



#13 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 28, 2013 - 02:13 PM

I got the other two cross members cut, notched, and ground down on the areas to be welded!

F16849AD-065F-492A-BC7F-905DACF1A8BE-221

 

Before I can weld it together, I need to drill a bigger hole for the axle pivot pin. I also need to get a stick welder, or use somebody else's.



#14 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 06, 2013 - 04:34 PM

Although I can't weld it yet, I was thinking about what else I could do, and I figured I could start making the mounts for the final drives. Before I could start making them, I had to take one of the finals off to get the measurements from the original mounting plate. I took the right one off today, and I was going to start cutting them out; although, after being covered in grease, oil, and sweat I did not have it in me to wrestle the two 9/16" plates, 1/4" plate, 4'x8' sheet of diamond plate, and likely some other stuff out to get the 3/8" plate I have behind it all! Here is what the plates look like, I need to make two of these.

 

44EAA466-594D-4D3F-B2A6-30ACA00BFC26-122


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#15 LilysDad ONLINE  

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Posted July 06, 2013 - 05:13 PM

Good start, Ryan! Is this going to have a dump bed? How are you going to dump it? Manual? Hydraulic?


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