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5 HH120 Tecumsehs


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#31 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2011 - 12:59 AM

Differences in the blocks:
This is the HH100 that is in my 66MF10, S/G, points, no provisions for fuel pump, 1 oil drain plug, nut and bolt engine mounts.
66 MF10 069..jpg

This is the HH120 that's in my 67MF12(right), I also have a HH100 that looks just like it, S/G, points, has provisions for fuel pump, 4 oil drain plugs, nut and bolt engine mounts.
hh 002.jpg

This is another HH120, ring gear starter, SSI no points, provision for fuel pump, 4 drain holes and nut and bolt mounts.
HH 003.jpg

This is a HH120, ring gear started,SSI, no provision for fuel pump, big base more oil capacity, 1 drain plug, motor mount bolts thread in the block from the bottom.
HH 008.jpg

And another HH120, ring gear, SSI, pipe plug for fuel pump, big base, 4 drain plugs, threaded block mounting bolts.
hh 001.jpg

Here's a comparison of the small and big base.
HH 010.jpg

Here's a look at the spot where the fuel pump goes.
Left small base, has block off plate, center nothing, right big base has pipe plug.
HH 009.jpg

All 4 engines I took apart are SSI and have the same camshaft with decompressor.
HH 006.jpg

I have 8 of these altogether, 5 SSI and 3 S/G, the S/G engines have mounting bolt holes for the ring gear starter.
The engines with 1 drain plug I believe to be originals, and the ones with 4 plugs are short block replacements as some of them had small metal tags on them.

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  • HH 002.jpg


#32 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2011 - 05:07 PM

This is 1 of the 5, it came with the last MF12Hydra I got was told it failed due to no spark caused by wrong ignition switch put in. After taking it apart I found scored cylinder and damaged piston, this one will be used for parts for the others, it came complete.
HH 005.jpg

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  • HH 004.jpg


#33 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2011 - 09:51 PM

Started on # 2 tonight, picked the best of the bunch in terms of visual sighs of wear.
This is the engine that was bored out 20thou. and the crank was turned 20thou also, both marked. De glazing the cylinder showed no signs of wear, not egg shaped or wallowed out at all, piston looks good, the valves + seats look good, will lap them anyway. The crank and rod different story lots of play but it doesn't look bad just measures loose, 3thou +, so I picked the crank and rod that measured the best out of the rest and put it in this engine.
Found out that the crank, cam and governor gears are either straight cut or angle cut, had to change the cam and governor gear to match the crank I put in # 2. See if I can finish it tomorrow after work, I think I'll have a good engine here and I got all the parts to make it run.

#34 mikebramel OFFLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2011 - 10:58 PM

This is 1 of the 5, it came with the last MF12Hydra I got was told it failed due to no spark caused by wrong ignition switch put in. After taking it apart I found scored cylinder and damaged piston, this one will be used for parts for the others, it came complete.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]10751[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]10757[/ATTACH]


You can get this sleeved and then use one of those aftermarket pistons. Might not be too bad $$ in the end

#35 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 05, 2011 - 08:49 PM

Pictures of it before the head goes on.
HH 014.jpg

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  • HH 013.jpg


#36 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2011 - 07:06 PM

Well now that engine 2 is altogether it's time for #3, this is a combination of the best of what's left over. This one will use up the last good SSI ignition modual I have. I got 2 cranks and 2 piston rod assembles. So I measured the cranks and rods, picked the biggest crank, the smallest rod, used the block that showed the least amount of wear, same for the piston. Matched up all the parts and put them together, hopefully another good engine, find out when it runs.
There will not be enough good parts left over to put together another one without spending some $. So far I got 2 good ones out of 4, I hope.
There is still #5 that is still on the tractor, haven't touched it, unknown condition, not seized, if the SSI unit is good I think I might be able to put together a 3rd running engine.
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#37 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2011 - 07:19 PM

We need to call you the "TEC Man"! Good looking work there Doug! :thumbs:

#38 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2011 - 07:47 PM

Doug, that's great! Glad to hear you have yet another one almost done.
Some very nice to have units will be sitting on your shelf waiting for a potential recipients.

#39 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2011 - 08:59 PM

Thanks guys 3 are already spoken for.
I wanted to show the difference in the cams I found, straight, angle cut gears.
HH 016.jpg

Also I bought a rebuild kit for a HH100 and the rods are different, made in Taiwan.
HH 015.jpg
Top new Taiwan, bottom one is what I found in the engines I took apart.
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#40 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2011 - 10:31 PM

Differences in camshafts between points engines and SSI engines
Cam on the left is SSI
In the first picture you can see the decompressor on both cams.
HH 017.jpg

The second picture shows the other side of the gear and you can see the difference.
The left is SSI, right is points ignition what your seeing is centrifugal spark advance on the points cam. The wide collar is what the points plunger rubs on and that rotates on the cam to change the ign. timing. If you put the "electronic points eliminator" on this engine you would loose the spark advance. Points engine fire every 2nd revolution.
HH 018.jpg
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#41 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2011 - 11:12 PM

Doug, Thanks for all the great info, I have never been inside a TEC.. The old Alcoa rod looks a little beefier then the other one.

Have you ever had a rod resized? You can change the length of it by resizing them.

#42 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2011 - 11:16 PM

I have cut the cap and rod in a mill, and then have them resized, when they setup to do it, they can machine off set either in the cap or in the rod. Usually, if rod is not wore down to much, you can get rod back to standard.

#43 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 24, 2011 - 04:55 PM

I've thought of taking all the rods and cranks that are loose to a machine shop and see if they can re-size them like you say. The cranks all look good and the rods some better than the others, just when I measure them I get 3 thou+ for clearance on them. I figure if I take all I have and get them done it's got to be cheaper than buying new especially if the new rods are a lesser quality than the originals.




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