Working on my 1430 Speedex today and MAN, what a PIA! I think the designer/engineer for these things needs to be shot and then the fella that said "we don't need to make any shop manuls" also needs same. I could not get the engine to slide but maybe 1/2". It did tighten the drive belt if I had on inside small pulley, but wouldn't move enuf to loosen and be free. there are two adjustable links used on pedal. One is longer than other. Couldn't figure out which one does the engine move and which goes back to brake pad on pulley. I have short up front and long in back to brake. I flipped them today and didn't make much diff, so put back again. I then figured I must have had the front mount that also pushes against a return spring on backwards. Once flipped, seemed to be more movement. I took those sliders off many times. Ended up adjusting those with a .025 feeler gauge used as a spacer to the frame. Engine bolts have very little room for heads underneath, that was pain. I'm wondering if maybe they weren't supposed to be allen headed or something. Would have been much easier. I'm thinking of changing to them later. Sockets would get in there, no space and had to use an open end, that only went on part way, but it was enough to hole while socket on other end. Finally got the engine moving about 3" or so and seemed more correct. Also the spring on front was pusing it back for neutral with foot off pedal. It DID seem kinda hard to push that pedal tho and bet it would tire your leg fast. I oiled and greased all the joints and frame/sliders and way better after that. I have so seat to push back on to run pedal, but will have to check that later. If I used my two hands on the pedal I could rock it back and forth much easier. I didn't seem to get any cam effect when pedal was pushed all the way to hold it, not sure if it should do that or not. There was some washers between frame and slider mounts that seem to keep it in line better, but had to remove one on back, it just wanted to jamb the system. Worked good after removal. Belt didn't wanna tighten anymore once I got it set up better if I used the inner smaller pulley on engine. If I used the Outer larger one it seemed good. Neither one is really lined up what I call straight to the trans pulley and not sure the attachment drive would be on inside of tractor drive or not. Seems that would make it harder to remove an attachment if you had to take drive pulley off each time too. Course with all the other odd-ball stuff these have,maybe that's not so hard to think that is correct!! Engine is all painted up silver, looks good that color. Still need to rebuild the carb and get it on. Gas tank is red though and the main fan/pulley on shroud side is red also. Kinda accents the silver. Maybe can get pix tomorrow. Finally getting to work on tin. Blasting now, will be painting some parts later.
Need To Shoot Two People.....#@*^! 1630 Ramblings!
Posted June 23, 2013 - 02:29 AM
Posted June 23, 2013 - 04:19 AM
yep, I understand. My wife absolutly neede a screen door. It took the whole saturday (yesterday) for mounting it. And I'm a craftsman and learnd my profession well. That was nothing for untalented persons!
- hamman said thank you
Posted June 23, 2013 - 04:30 AM
Kind of felt like you were working on a Japanese car.... I know I've cursed their engineers and designers more than once
Posted June 23, 2013 - 06:36 AM
It seems like Pond made it simpler.
Posted June 23, 2013 - 07:47 AM
There is something wrong in a design that moves an entire engine instead of just a little tensioner pulley! Guess they just wanted to be different. I hope today reaps better results for ya!
Posted June 23, 2013 - 08:27 AM
There is something wrong in a design that moves an entire engine instead of just a little tensioner pulley!
I agree Dan but they eliminated that very expensive idler pulley that way
- olcowhand said thank you
Posted June 23, 2013 - 06:50 PM
Well, think it is going to work now. I have changed the pulleys around so larger one drives the tractor, smaller one for deck, which I don't have. Might wanna make it go some faster than when new, shouldn't be a bother, I hope. Belt tightens fine now. Took a few picks of pretty chassis, including couple close ups of the front slider mount and the two linkages to pedal. Sure is a colorful rig if nothing else.
- Alc said thank you
Posted June 26, 2013 - 06:18 PM
OK, some updates! Engine is running now with me putting old mag back in. New Chineses one is junk I guess! I turned around that front slider assembly and now engine moves more forward and lines up with belt cover hole over pulley and crank spot and LOCKS down with over-center action at last part of move. Much better. It also loosened up the tension on spring and don't push as hard. Still seems spring is a little loose, there is play in it when pulled back that I don't think should be there. Might have to make a spacer to put in and compress some. Think is is just weak from age. Now belt is too short, even tho I turned the two pulleys back around like standard and put the small one inside for belt drive. Gonna try an inch bigger and see if better. It doesn't release belt enough to stop tractor from moving right now. Gonna start the wiring and battery install tomorrow, that will be nice to have key start again. Hope to take it for a test run Naked! (The tractor, not Me!). Gotta get going on that tin and get painted. Hope to take it to show in Mid July.
Posted July 02, 2013 - 08:44 PM
Couple pix of progress. Today worked more on hood, will be painting that soon I hope.