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Snapper Rear Engine Drive Disc Maintenance


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#1 Le_Bear OFFLINE  

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Posted June 20, 2013 - 09:24 AM

I have an old rear engine Snapper that was part of a clean-up project, not sure how long it had been unused. I gassed it up, changed the oil and plug, filled the battery and charged it, replaced a starter gear, and pretty well took off mowing. It pulled quite well, and mowed like a champ. Didn't cut straight, but I used it for "bush hoggin" in places that hadn't been mowed for years. I even took it over in the back pasture and mowed along a little drive path, and the only place it needed help was crossing a drainage ditch that runs across our place. The banks are a bit steep, and I had to help it up each side.

 

 It was starting to not pull as well in forward, but still strong in reverse. I'd have to nudge it a bit to get it moving in forward, but it would keep on pulling and mowing once it got moving. I've hesitated trying to break the bolts holding the frame extension, that's how the cables are adjusted I believe, although I'm not sure that's what it needs. I have the service and parts manual, I believe that's what got me signed up here was in looking for those, and I may still owe the uploader a great deal of gratitude, when I can relocate that post.

 

 Anyway, I once checked the driven disc measurement and it was near exact. The old belt broke and I ordered one online. When I get that, or while I'm waiting, before putting it back to mowing, I'm hoping to find suggestions on how to either get the drive discs or cables adjusted, or possibly find if it needs to be replaced. The disk still appears to have plenty of rubber on it, but I don't recall finding a measurement for that(simply a photo drawing of one looking rather worn)

 

Any suggestions for getting this mowing again would be much appreciated


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#2 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted June 20, 2013 - 10:34 AM

I have never seen one of these up close but I assume it's similar to a snowblower disc drive. One thing I do to my snowblowers is to clean the drive wheel and the metal disc it drives on a regular basis. Rubber dust from the wheel or even from drive belts can build up on the driven wheel and cause the drive wheel to slip. If the rubber is old it may become hard and loose some of its traction and even though it's not worn out it may not provide the power transfer of a new disc.


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#3 HDWildBill ONLINE  

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Posted June 20, 2013 - 12:45 PM

I just got one from my FIL.  I really don't know much about them but I'm learning.  I do know moving the tube is for adjusting the belt tention.  The belt was also broken on mine and when I put the new one one I had under an 1" so I adjusted the tube.   The manuals I found were pretty good but there is a service manual for the series 4,5,6, and later that really goes into detail you may want to DL.  Perhaps someone with more knowledge will be along that can help you more.  Good Luck


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#4 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted June 20, 2013 - 05:11 PM

Ahh....this is an easy one...well it is now.

At the very back of the mower, you will find a U shaped bracket, that has another U shaped bracket. There are nylon bushing in the holes on these backers that act the hinge when shifting gears. Check this brackets and bushings, I'll bet they are worn out.

My RER did the same thing. My FIL had it in the shop numerous times trying to get it fixed. He finally gave up and gave it to me. I just about pulled my hair out until I looked at those brackets. I replaced them and now it will pull wheelies.


Edited by Amigatec, June 20, 2013 - 05:17 PM.

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#5 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted June 20, 2013 - 05:16 PM

Parts 15, 16, and 20.

 

images.partstree.com.gif


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#6 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted June 20, 2013 - 05:35 PM

What model do you have?   .....Drive discs were different, and adjustments were different.

 

Slippage in the drive can be caused by:

 

Oil on the flat drive plate.

 

Incorrect adjustment of the drive plate on the crankshaft.

 

Worn or chipped drive disc.  (If there are no chunks missing, the disc is probably still good.)

 

Incorrect adjustment of the shift linkage.

 

No slack in the clutch cable.

 

Weak spring on hinge bracket.

 

Worn or loose hinge bracket as previously mentioned.

 

Sheared bolt through wheel hub.

 

Worn differential gears.

 

Worn axle bushings.

 

There are other possibilities as well, but these are what readily come to mind.

 

As already said, moving the frame is for adjusting the belt tension only.  ....It will not eliminate slippage in the drive.

 

If the frame has been extended to the point where there is no slack in the clutch cable, that can cause slippage.  .....Most models had spacers at the pedal end of the cable to increase or decrease the amount of slack.

 

If you stand the rider on end to work on the drive, be sure to remove the battery to prevent battery acid from leaking out.  .....If I didn't want to remove the battery,  I would put pieces of plastic bag under each battery cap to prevent the acid from leaking.


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#7 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted June 20, 2013 - 06:20 PM

You will probably also find the slot in #15, has a lot wear in it. Mime would pull fair in 1st, but have real problems in 3rd, the slot was wore were 3rd would be.

Check these parts first and I'll bet you find your problem.
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#8 Le_Bear OFFLINE  

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Posted June 20, 2013 - 06:58 PM

Wow! Thanks yall, for the many helpful suggestions, from the first to the last, they've all been lots to think about and check. I'm nearing weeks end, and lost some time today due to some family stuff(a long distance visitor whom I hadn't seen for many years ; ) that although greatly enhancing most of the afternoon, set me back even farther on my chores, so it may be Sunday or Monday before I can get back to it, or possibly until I get the belt. I do need the mower badly, and hope to get it going.

 All these suggestions will be very helpful, and I thank you greatly for them.

 As I was reading through them, something kept coming to mind that I didn't include in my original post. Sometimes when it was in forward on a sharp turn, and in a bind, the drive would regain traction when I straightened the steering, leading me to presume it may have something to do with the extension tube needing adjusted someway, but that could all have been due only to it being in a turn, which the straightened steering removed. The cable seemed to have plenty of slack, and I was wondering maybe too much, so I'm thinking the return springs will be of particular interest. Also, the point about it slipping (not pulling well) while in forward, but always pulling strong when moved to reverse, could help me sort through your suggestions, and again I thank you all very much


Edited by Le_Bear, June 20, 2013 - 07:02 PM.


#9 Kurtee OFFLINE  

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Posted June 20, 2013 - 07:19 PM

OK my 2 cents. Lubricate the mechanism first and make sure it moves properly. Then double spring the clutch mechanism. Just get a new spring and add it next to the one that is there. Always start a Snapper in 1st gear and shift up from there, it saves the gears.


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#10 Le_Bear OFFLINE  

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Posted June 20, 2013 - 09:22 PM

Thanks to you too Kurtee.

Someone was asking about the model, it's a 300845

 

ahh yeah, that spring part sounds good(and easy ; ) It sounds good because that's one thing had me wondering if an adjustment might help. The pedal wasn't seeming to pull back like it should. It also just crossed my mind how I'd often reach my foot around and pull the pedal up to get it going

 

IF that does solve this question, your other suggestions will not be going to waste. This mower needs some long overdue routine maintenance, and I'll sure be bearing those in mind when I'm checking it out, and learning more about it.

 

This might not be the time or place to bring this up, but it's got a 8HP B&S that smokes and uses oil. Would that be best just replaced, or are they easy enough to rebuild? I also have an old Murray that's supposedly got a good motor on it, but no tires. It's a 14HP though


Edited by Le_Bear, June 20, 2013 - 09:31 PM.


#11 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2013 - 02:53 AM

The hex shaft where the transmission slides needs to cleaned an lubed as well. I replaced the rubber boots on mine.

On the left rear axle, there is either a bearing or a bushing. If I is a bushing it will need greased as well.
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#12 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2013 - 02:55 AM

For a cheap mower, these hold up very well with he proper maintenance. Mine is a 1993 model and I use it almost every week. I call it old faithful, when nothing else will start, the old RER will.

#13 Le_Bear OFFLINE  

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Posted June 23, 2013 - 06:00 PM

For what it's worth, I got the yard mowed :) The belt came in yesterday and this morning I began putting it on. Had to put it in 5th position to get the belt on, and while getting it there recalled the spring suggestion, and luckily found a similar but larger spring which fit(although in different locations) well enough to work. After getting it ready to mow it started in 1st(a first) and pulled just great. I forgot about the bushing inspection, which I full well intended to do, but still intend to.

 I found the idler pulley was froze up, but found a handy enough replacement on an old Murray out behind the barn(I'll still be looking for a closer match too) It was a 3" plastic and the Snapper had a 4" metal, and they had different size bolts( a 3/8 and a 1/2) Went looking for a 1/2" pipe or bushing and found an old gas water heater control with a 1/2 soft steel pipe going to the burner, and luckily the inside was 3/8. After a bit of tinkering got it all lined up and working and managed to get the front part of the yard mowed. 

 Thanks again for your helpful suggestions. I'll certainly keep them all in mind and as I have opportunity will be trying to get this thing back up to standard :)

  We've had a more generous supply of rain this year and the grass had really gotten high. It would be nice if I could get the guys bailing hay across the road to do my front yard now, might make a few bucks selling hay haha ;)






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