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Ramp Into Garage

garage ramp

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#1 TerryD OFFLINE  

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Posted June 19, 2013 - 12:05 PM

I want to bend a piece of 1/8" steel diamond tread and put at the entrance into the garage. It would extend outward from the garage about 7.5" across the floor and have a bend 4.5 inches from the other edge that would touch the garage apron that is 2" below the floor level. It would sort of look like this -----\ without the upper half of the \

I want to put this across the entire length of the garage, not just a short section. I've been looking for load tables, but not much luck. Can anyone tell me what the load rating would be for the section that would be supported at the top and bottom and 4.5" wide?

Thanks, Terry
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#2 jd.rasentrac OFFLINE  

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Posted June 19, 2013 - 12:57 PM

Can you set a base under the construction?

 

btw

look like this -----\ without the upper half of the \

real great description ildeere.gif



#3 TerryD OFFLINE  

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Posted June 19, 2013 - 01:08 PM

A base? It will be fully supported at the garage floor level and fully supported on the apron. There won't be anything under the sloped area.

Thanks for your response.

Edited by TerryD, June 19, 2013 - 01:09 PM.


#4 John@Reliable OFFLINE  

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Posted June 19, 2013 - 01:49 PM

Not sure about a load table, but I would install it with cement under it to replace open space, not only would it take a load better but it wouldn't move or require lags to hold it secure.


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#5 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted June 19, 2013 - 03:09 PM

Are you going to be fastening it in any way at the bottom? Hard to say without seeing it.Would it work to get a piece of hardwood cut to fit there and use that rather than use the metal. It's only a 2" rise if I read this right. Or perhaps a cement ramp to do the job? 


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#6 TerryD OFFLINE  

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Posted June 19, 2013 - 03:28 PM

I was going to let the bottom lip just sit on the concrete apron. I thought about plywood, but that will get wet and deteriorate in time. Concrete would work but I suspect it will crack or crumble. Guess I'm looking for a permanent solution that doesn't require maintenance or or an eye kept on it. I'm also checking with a local steel fabricator to see if they have any experience in this sort of thing. Surely I'm not the first guy that needed a transition piece coming out of the garage.

#7 John@Reliable OFFLINE  

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Posted June 19, 2013 - 03:39 PM

I was going to let the bottom lip just sit on the concrete apron. I thought about plywood, but that will get wet and deteriorate in time. Concrete would work but I suspect it will crack or crumble. Guess I'm looking for a permanent solution that doesn't require maintenance or or an eye kept on it. I'm also checking with a local steel fabricator to see if they have any experience in this sort of thing. Surely I'm not the first guy that needed a transition piece coming out of the garage.

I'm in and out of a lot of homes weekly, never seen a metal transition, only concrete. The biggest drawback about the metal one to me would be rust and the rust streaks on concrete that would follow, even more maintenance to keep up with (nothings easy) :smilewink:


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#8 TerryD OFFLINE  

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Posted June 19, 2013 - 03:43 PM

Oh yea. I'm sure. I'd want to coat it with liquid truck bed liner coating or have it hot dipped at the least.

#9 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted June 19, 2013 - 08:56 PM

This isn't quite what your talking about but here's my pole barn , the wood is pt 6x6 that has been down for about 20 years , maybe you could fasten a 2x8 beveled to the concrete ? 

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#10 Gtractor ONLINE  

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Posted June 19, 2013 - 09:38 PM

Your local street department should have ground up used asphalt that would work well.  Get the fine stuff thats been run through a screen and shape it however you want it.   Tamp it in or roll over it with something heavy and in a few weeks it will set and be hard as regular asphalt.   No more than you'll need, they should give it to you.


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#11 TerryD OFFLINE  

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Posted June 20, 2013 - 10:02 PM

Your local street department should have ground up used asphalt that would work well.  Get the fine stuff thats been run through a screen and shape it however you want it.   Tamp it in or roll over it with something heavy and in a few weeks it will set and be hard as regular asphalt.   No more than you'll need, they should give it to you.


Great idea. I really like that one. I spoke with a salesperson at the local fab shop, their engineer couldn't figure the load. Guess they don't teach 'em like they use too. I'm going to check with local scrap yard this weekend to see what they have laying around. Worst case if I go too thin and it bends i may have to get out the anvil and do a bit of metalsmithing. :)
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#12 TerryD OFFLINE  

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Posted July 04, 2013 - 11:18 PM

No luck at the scrap yard. John@reliable won out. Give that man a chicken dinner.

Two bags of concrete mixed stiff and a couple hours later it was done. Moist cured 5 days before driving on it and no problems with the thin area at the apron. If it ever breaks up I'll just bust it out and redo.

Thanks again John!
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#13 John@Reliable OFFLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2013 - 12:55 PM

No luck at the scrap yard. John@reliable won out. Give that man a chicken dinner.

Two bags of concrete mixed stiff and a couple hours later it was done. Moist cured 5 days before driving on it and no problems with the thin area at the apron. If it ever breaks up I'll just bust it out and redo.

Thanks again John!

Glad to hear, concrete can do funny things no matter who does the work. I've seen people with out a clue work with it no problem and work done by pro's that cracks it a year, so many factors involved. :thumbs:


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