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Making a 3 turn steering gear.


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#1 scout girl OFFLINE  

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Posted November 07, 2010 - 09:23 PM

As most of you know it isn't always easy to come across a 3 turn steering gear for a Cub. However, it is fairly easy to find a steering unit for a 110, 112, 212, 214, etc. John Deere. And luckily most of their steering columns are longer, so that gives us a place to start.

For this modification you will need to be fairly comfortable welding or know somebody that is.

The Ross steering shaft is a 3/4" tube that has an approximate 1/2" internal diameter. First we need to decide where you want to cut it to make it the correct length. I would recommend cutting it closer to the top, that way if you have any misalignment it will not be as noticeable.

Since we have a hollow tube with an ID of approx 1/2", we can either use a piece of 1/2" cold drawn shaft or a 1/2" bolt. The ID does vary from shaft to shaft, the 1/2" bolt is slightly smaller than the cold drawn shaft, so use what works for you. You can also use a drill bit to make the ID the proper diameter if you wish.

Once we have cut the shaft down to the proper length (notice I'm not giving you a length since the columns may differ between models, I don't want any of you winding up with a steering shaft that is the wrong length) we need to get the pieces ready to reassemble.

shaft 1.jpg

I like to drill 5/16" holes in both pieces approximately 2" from the cut end completely through both sides of the tube. The inserted rod is approximately 6" long. Make sure to bevel the ends of the shaft to give you a place to weld.

shaft 2.jpg

I recommend clamping the shaft in a piece of angle iron to help hold it straight. Weld the plug holes on each side first to hold everything in place and to help prevent the shaft from trying to warp during welding. Honestly, the plug welds are probably enough to hold the shaft together, but I feel safer getting a weld completely around the shaft.

When you weld the shaft it is very important that you do it a little at a time and work on opposite sides. As you make your opposing welds, unclamp the shaft from the angle iron and dress any weld off that is above the outer diameter of the shaft, that way as you turn it in the angle iron it can sit flush and hold true. Also the extra cooling time between welds will help prevent warping as well. Just take your time building up the shaft and dressing down your welds until you have the area filled in.

shaft 3.jpg

I don't recommend quick cooling the shaft at any point with water, just let it cool on its own once you are finished.

And if you took your time, and checked things as you went, you now have a 3 turn worm gear for just the cost of buying an eBay steering column and a little of your time. My practice one took me a few hours, my next one took me less than an hour.


One more thing you can do to help your steering is to brace the upper steering column. On the wide frame series, the rubber grommet and the dash are the only upper supports. This lets the column move a little up top.

To help with this you need a muffler clamp for a 1-1/2" pipe and a short piece of angle iron. Drill the angle iron to accept the clamp, and place the unit on the column to mark its location. I drilled 5 spots on the tower to plug weld the angle iron to the tower, but you can do it however you feel the most comfortable.

Once it is welded in, you column is nice and supported at the top now as well.

column 2.jpg

I hope this can help some of you guys. :)

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  • column 1.jpg

  • NUTNDUN, Bolens 1000, mjodrey and 1 other said thanks

#2 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted November 07, 2010 - 11:11 PM

Nice job & good information, the pics help too. Thanks.

#3 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted November 08, 2010 - 06:17 AM

Great job :thumbs:

#4 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted November 08, 2010 - 06:53 AM

That's a nice bit of fabrication.:thumbs:

#5 scout girl OFFLINE  

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Posted November 08, 2010 - 07:16 PM

Thanks guys. The modification went really well and the steering column went back together pretty nice as well. And it seems like it is going to do pretty well. Until I get a new oil pan in I won't be able to drive it and see how much easier it steers, but just sitting on concrete I can tell a pretty good difference in it.

Then I have to see what I need to do to get the dive shaft in alignment with the hydro pump to see if I can knock out the rest of the vibrations.

Seems like there is always something.

#6 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted November 09, 2010 - 05:57 PM

Thanks guys. The modification went really well and the steering column went back together pretty nice as well. And it seems like it is going to do pretty well. Until I get a new oil pan in I won't be able to drive it and see how much easier it steers, but just sitting on concrete I can tell a pretty good difference in it.

Then I have to see what I need to do to get the dive shaft in alignment with the hydro pump to see if I can knock out the rest of the vibrations.

Seems like there is always something.


Thank you for the write up. If you don't mind we will also put it onto the main section of the site under the guides.

#7 scout girl OFFLINE  

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Posted November 10, 2010 - 02:33 PM

Thank you for the write up. If you don't mind we will also put it onto the main section of the site under the guides.


If you think it will help others, feel free to. I hope everybody knows they can email me if they have questions too. It may be a day or two before I get back to you, but I promise I will respond.
  • Josh Smith said thank you

#8 Josh Smith OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2010 - 12:26 AM

Thanks for the how to I may try this on one or two of my tractors as they need the steering column rebuilt anyway Lol. Thanks again Josh




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