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Went On Vacation On Florida And...


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#1 dropped82 ONLINE  

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Posted June 17, 2013 - 04:10 PM

Well I've been visiting my in-laws who are 1100 miles away in Port Charlotte. I brought some metal with me knowing my FIL is a retired millwright. Showed him some plans to a hitch and asked for his help. This is where we are at after this morning. His tool selection make a lot quicker work of this than mine. I can do this but his stuff makes it quicker and easier. Especially the high frequency welder. Makes prettier beads than mine.uploadfromtaptalk1371503132162.jpg

The arms are 2x2 angle and the draw bar is also 2x2 angle with a piece if flat stock on the bottom for the support on the tubes. While I was looking for tubes at the local hardware down here, my FIL brought be black pipe nipples. Wow, that was perfect. Just cut the threads off and weld them in. Also his drill bit selection is a little more extensive than mine. Had to drill 7/8" holes for the tubes. Just need to drill the pivot holes in the back and installed the lift tab in the back. Also weld the nuts and drill the front draw bar holes for the stabilizer bolt. I'm gonna make the lift arm at home since I really need the tractor to look at. I'm working on another one right now so every Case I have will have either a sleeve hitch or 3 point.

Eric

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#2 dropped82 ONLINE  

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Posted June 17, 2013 - 04:12 PM

Also the mounting brackets are 1.5 square tube cut at an angle which after holes and 3/4 bar will look just like the stock ones. Hope you guys enjoy. My only question is how much offset do I need for the lift tab on the hitch so the lift arm will clear the brake?

Eric

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#3 gopher OFFLINE  

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Posted June 17, 2013 - 08:15 PM

I put 2 inch offset 2 1/2 inch rise for one I built for 3016. Gives me 1 inch clearance of brake drum.A I put a radius on other angle to give more clearance of drive motor.


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#4 dropped82 ONLINE  

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Posted June 17, 2013 - 08:45 PM

You mounted lift tabs on both sides?

Eric

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#5 John@Reliable OFFLINE  

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Posted June 17, 2013 - 09:11 PM

nice to see you get along well with FIL, even nicer that he has tools to play with :thumbs:

oh, hitch looks real good.


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#6 gopher OFFLINE  

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Posted June 17, 2013 - 09:13 PM

No I ground the corner on other angle,The 2 different measurements the 2 inch is how far you you jog out when you are two & halve inches above top of angle.


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#7 dropped82 ONLINE  

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Posted June 17, 2013 - 09:16 PM

Ok I think I understand now. I don't have a tractor here to but its making sense to me now. I'm gonna work on it some more tomorrow. Should possibly have 2 done by midday. Depends on if I get sidetracked. That beer is pretty tasty.

Eric

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#8 gopher OFFLINE  

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Posted June 17, 2013 - 09:25 PM

Don't forget the 400 will be 4 inches longer hitch then the 200.


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#9 dropped82 ONLINE  

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Posted June 18, 2013 - 08:04 AM

Yes I know about that. I making them both 21.5" long. I should be good. Thanks!

Eric

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#10 machinist OFFLINE  

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Posted June 20, 2013 - 09:43 AM

dropped82,


I built a sleeve hitch like that, but from a photo on eBay. I also used black pipe for the pin holes, but had to ream them to 5/8" after welding them in. The pipe is just slightly too small inside, the pipe seam inside makes it worse, and the welding all around made it shrink in a bit. But that hitch has served me well for going on 5 years.

I used solid stock for the mounts on the tractor, about 1" x 1 1/4" x 3" IIRC. I pressed in a pivot pin, then welded it on the flush end. I've literally pulled small stumps with this thing and moved a lot of heavy farm equipment with it when I was doing farm repairs. I used a 2" square tube for the back end of mine because it was on hand. I lift a double gang Brinly disk with it, and use a 12" Brinly plow. This is the workhorse on our place, and has done a LOT for us.

Your build is looking good! :) What have you got in mind for the lift link that goes forward to the rocker shaft? I bent mine up out of 3/8" x 1 1/2" flat stock, and that took a while, not having an example to go by. I slotted the rear hole of that link to allow the plow to jump out of the ground if it hits one of the millions of rocks here in south Indiana, and allows things like the disk to float without down pressure. This has been a GOOD thing!

I removed my tow hitch to allow the sleeve hitch to drop a bit lower so the front section of the disk can cut a little deeper. The rock shaft limits down travel anyway, but my front cross bar hit the tow hitch before it got all the way down.

Edited by machinist, June 20, 2013 - 09:46 AM.

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#11 dropped82 ONLINE  

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Posted June 20, 2013 - 10:17 AM

I'm actually out welding the second one up now. I figured I will run a bit thru the tubes after everything is done. I'm using 1.5"x4x1/4 for the lift tab. Maybe a little extreme but smaller seems like it wouldn't hold. I will post some pics in a little while once I finish with the second one. Its getting hot here so I'm hoping to finish while the sun is still behind the clouds.

Eric

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#12 dropped82 ONLINE  

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Posted June 20, 2013 - 07:41 PM

Sorry that was supposed to be 1.5 x 1/4 steel bar for the lift tab. I was obviously not using that portion of my brain earlier. It got hotter than usual today. Being from IN, I naturally stopped for the day. Everything is drilled now so all I have to do is weld everything together and that'll be 2 hitches waiting for tractors. I will post some pics tomorrow when they are finished. Thanks for all the comments!

Eric

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#13 dropped82 ONLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2013 - 08:48 AM

Well everything that getting done here in the south is done. The rest has to wait for the 1100 mile trip north. Still need to bend the offset in the lift tab and make the lift arm. Also the cross bar has to be welded in which will wait till I can line it up with the hitch on the tractor. Primer and paint. Can't wait to get back now!

Eric

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#14 dropped82 ONLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2013 - 09:08 AM

uploadfromtaptalk1371823694560.jpg
uploadfromtaptalk1371823714622.jpg
Sorry forgot the pics.

Eric

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#15 gopher OFFLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2013 - 06:42 PM

Forgot to tell you on the 200 depending what drive motor you have to grind on the bracket for clearance.


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