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Hydro Issue With Cub Cadet 1810

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#1 ssartell OFFLINE  

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Posted June 11, 2013 - 10:54 PM

I have an '89 1810 with a hydro issue. I'm pretting sure it's a Sundstrand 782.   It wouldn't go forward or reverse on Saturday.  I drained the trans fluid and it was not low.  I pulled the check valves and cleaned them and reinstalled.  When I went to replace the filter, I noticed that the rubber bushings on the drive shaft had worn a hole in the filter or something did. Would that hole have cause the issue with the tractor not moving?  It was not spraying trans fluid out the hole so I don't know if there is pressure on the filter side or not.   I have had problems with wobble in the drive shaft ever since I put in a new block 4-5 years ago.  I have gone through two of the coupling arms on the hydro shaft and now the hole in the hydro shaft is getting ovalled out.  WHen I replace the couple arm with the bearing the hole in the hydro shaft is bigger than the rolled pin that fits in the hole in the coupling arm so I get play in the drive shaft and the pins shear off.  I am tempted to try to drill out the hole in the coupling arm in order to use a bigger pin but it's forged and that might not be an option.  It's either that or get a rebuild hydro unit with a shaft that isn't worn.  I do not want to tangle with trying to rebuild the pump myself plus we have been getting a lot of rain and the grass is growing like crazy.  I'm almost tempted to throw in the towel and get a new tractor but I highly doubt the new ones are built as well as this.


Has anyone else had problems with drive shaft wobble and the hydro shaft holes getting rounded out?  I'm getting real timed of fixing this thing.  Thanks for any help you can provide.

#2 boyscout862 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 12, 2013 - 07:16 AM

Welcome to GTT. I do not have an answer for you but, did want to point out that we have a manuals section that may help. You can download 3 per day for free. Someone more knowledgeable will help you soon. In the mean time use a cheap lawn tractor. Good Luck, Rick

Edited by boyscout862, June 12, 2013 - 07:18 AM.

#3 Craig. OFFLINE  


    Ronald Craig

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Posted June 12, 2013 - 07:41 AM

Had that problem with my Craftsman, and the spring broke on the pull rode at the back of the tractor between rear tires. You pull that rod to disengage tranny so you can push it. Because the spring broke the tranny disengaged. Took a while to find it. If ur tractor has one of them check it. Hopefully that's it and not somethin more serious

#4 CADplans OFFLINE  

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Posted June 12, 2013 - 08:40 AM

I got a buddy that makes a reasonable priced replacement driveshaft for that tractor.


He uses CV joints from a later model tractor.


 I could never get the rag joint driveshaft to stop wobbling.


Send me a PM if you would like his e-mail.

#5 Jlaws OFFLINE  

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Posted June 12, 2013 - 12:47 PM

I once owned a 1810 cub .

The filter is on the suction side of the pump , and if there was a hole in it , it would starve the pump of fluid and the tractor wouldn't move .

It would be similar to trying to drink a soft drink with a straw that had a hole in it ....you would get a lot of air but not much soda .....LOL

If your rubber coupler wobbles on the input shaft of the pump it will rub a hole in the filter because theres normally only about 1/4 inch clearance  ....been there before myself .

If the input shaft hole is worn oval then the cast coupler arm is going to wobble which causes the drive shaft to vibrate and cause excelerated wear on the input shaft bearing,and often wears a hole in the top of the oil filter if its excessive . The normal fix is to change out the input shaft on the pump , or replace the whole pump . I guess its worth a try to drill the pump input shaft out to a larger size and try putting in the next larger size spiral pin , if its worn that bad you have nothing to lose , but a little time .

I guess if you had a lathe , welder ,and a drill press , you could weld up the input shaft hole , then turn it smooth on a lathe and redrill it in a drill press , but unluckily most people don't own all that equipment .


The 1810 I owned had the same ported pump that they used on the 1811 hydro lift model , except that the 1810 didn't have the lift valves and cylinder , and the ports on the 1810 model pump were capped off .

Its not that difficult to change a 1810 manual lift into a 1811 hydrolift model .


Good luck , Jess   

Edited by Jlaws, June 12, 2013 - 01:13 PM.