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Making A New Blade For A 42" Sears Dozer/snow Plow


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#1 chris m OFFLINE  

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Posted June 11, 2013 - 08:33 PM

I spent the day working on making a new blade for my Dads Custom 10XL, The blade that came with it is small and it doesn't angle. This blade (1st picture) I have had for awhile and didn't know what Sears GT it went to, plus it was rusted out. But after looking at the mounts I noticed it is for a Sears custom. So I decided to resurrect it for Dad. I just got done rebuilding the mower deck, I'll post on that another time.

 

PICT1355.JPG PICT1362.JPG

First I had to remove the old rusted blade. That was fun! Man there must have been 80 spot welds lol. I popped them all off with multiple pry bars, as I was trying to not make a lot of noise (people were sleeping)

 

PICT1364.JPG

Next I cut my new piece (15 1/2" x 42") This old Milwaukee cut through this like it was butter, I was going to use the Plasma torch but decided to try this 1st. This is 1/16" thick.

 

PICT1366.JPG PICT1367.JPG PICT1369.JPG PICT1370.JPG

Next I decided to form the blade in my little hydraulic press. It worked great for this!

 

PICT1372.JPG PICT1374.JPG PICT1373.JPG PICT1375.JPG

Here it is clamped in place, and a shot of the old and new blade.

This is were I left off for tonight. Next it will be primer and paint on the frame before I spot weld this together.

 

 

 


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#2 hamman ONLINE  

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Posted June 11, 2013 - 09:07 PM

NIce job.! Should last a long time.


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#3 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted June 11, 2013 - 09:53 PM

That's a good idea to use your press to initially form the blade into the frame.  I have a similar dozer blade for my SS16... it needs a new moldboard (edge the cutting blade bolts to) as a PO ran it too long before changing the blade.  It shouldn't be too hard, though.

 

Utah Smitty


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#4 chris m OFFLINE  

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Posted June 11, 2013 - 10:03 PM

That's a good idea to use your press to initially form the blade into the frame.  I have a similar dozer blade for my SS16... it needs a new moldboard (edge the cutting blade bolts to) as a PO ran it too long before changing the blade.  It shouldn't be too hard, though.

 

Utah Smitty

I was going to make a wooden cradle to help in the forming process, but I decided just to try this. It worked better than I thought! No creases either. Good luck on yours, It should go fairly well for you. The hardest part is dealing with all the spot welds, they average 1-2" apart on all three rails.



#5 GT5k6spd OFFLINE  

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Posted June 11, 2013 - 11:13 PM

I spent the day working on making a new blade for my Dads Custom 10XL, The blade that came with it is small and it doesn't angle. This blade (1st picture) I have had for awhile and didn't know what Sears GT it went to, plus it was rusted out. But after looking at the mounts I noticed it is for a Sears custom. So I decided to resurrect it for Dad. I just got done rebuilding the mower deck, I'll post on that another time.

 

attachicon.gifPICT1355.JPG attachicon.gifPICT1362.JPG

First I had to remove the old rusted blade. That was fun! Man there must have been 80 spot welds lol. I popped them all off with multiple pry bars, as I was trying to not make a lot of noise (people were sleeping)

 

attachicon.gifPICT1364.JPG

Next I cut my new piece (15 1/2" x 42") This old Milwaukee cut through this like it was butter, I was going to use the Plasma torch but decided to try this 1st. This is 1/16" thick.

 

attachicon.gifPICT1366.JPG attachicon.gifPICT1367.JPG attachicon.gifPICT1369.JPG attachicon.gifPICT1370.JPG

Next I decided to form the blade in my little hydraulic press. It worked great for this!

 

attachicon.gifPICT1372.JPG attachicon.gifPICT1374.JPG attachicon.gifPICT1373.JPG attachicon.gifPICT1375.JPG

Here it is clamped in place, and a shot of the old and new blade.

This is were I left off for tonight. Next it will be primer and paint on the frame before I spot weld this together.

 

 

awesome.    ...i need more toys.


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#6 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted June 12, 2013 - 07:09 AM

Nice job Chris. Looks like it'll last many more years.
While you have it all apart, look into dealing with any massive pivot slop or worn holes. The frames are built well, but no one seemed to ever oil any of them in all that mechanism. They tend to get a little loosey goosey.
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#7 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted June 12, 2013 - 02:25 PM

I have that problem on a Sears Dozer Blade--lots's of pivot holes that are egged out.  What's the best way to repair them--just weld 'em shut and then redrill?

 

I've been tempted, but I wasn't sure I could get the hole in the correct place if I did...

 

Utah Smitty



#8 chris m OFFLINE  

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Posted June 12, 2013 - 02:36 PM

I have that problem on a Sears Dozer Blade--lots's of pivot holes that are egged out.  What's the best way to repair them--just weld 'em shut and then redrill?

 

I've been tempted, but I wasn't sure I could get the hole in the correct place if I did...

 

Utah Smitty

You could drill them larger and install a bushing. The one I am working on right now has bushings already.


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#9 Golden Hurricane OFFLINE  

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Posted June 14, 2013 - 10:57 AM

This thread was very interesting to me! GT5 put together the photos in a manner that was very easy to navigate & that was swell of him to do that for us! The whole project was well done by Chris M...in Rhode Island...thanks to each of you from a newbie!



#10 chris m OFFLINE  

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Posted June 14, 2013 - 10:39 PM

Well I got the blade welded to it's frame. now I am just working on the lift frame getting it ready for paint.

I also need to pick up a piece of flat stock to make the wear bar.

PICT1377.JPG

 

PICT1381.JPG

 

PICT1357.JPG

 

And the before picture :D


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#11 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted June 17, 2013 - 07:35 AM

 
And the before picture :D


Chris, I'm not saying it was rusted out, but in that picture... I can tell your front wheels are 1% off on toe in. :poke:

Excellent job, great looking build.
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