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David Bradley Axle Seals - Part 2 - Aka Help!


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#1 New.Canadian.DB.Owner OFFLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2013 - 06:55 PM

I had some spare time & motivation earlier today.  Never a good combination.  Anyway, I started on the axle seals.  Pulled the right tire & hub assembly off without much trouble then cleaned the axle so as to not tear the new seal.  

 

Thats when things started to go down hill.  I couldn't get the old oil seal out (even in pieces), so I decided to split the casing and drive it out.  I've remove the left wheel but I can't get the Pawl Holder off.  

 

I have the transmission off of the frame but can't get the casing cover off.  Is there a trick to this?  Can it be done with the case side wheel hub on?  Do I need to remove the clutch? 

 

 

Seal replacement 1.JPG Seal replacement 2.JPG

 

Seal replacement 3.JPG Seal replacement 4.JPG


Edited by New.Canadian.DB.Owner, June 07, 2013 - 07:16 PM.


#2 VSTROM803 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 08, 2013 - 04:43 AM

Those seals are tough to get out even after the cases are split. You do need to get that cover off.

 

As for getting the hub off you'll need to spread the hub open a bit where it splits with a large screwdriver and apply a liberal amount of penetrating oil. You can tap on it some to work the oil down into the crevice but be careful not to beat on it and crack something. It may take some time but, be patient. Your axle looks pretty clean but, be sure it has no rust in the path of the of the hub. 

 

Once you get the hub off get the the axle as clean and rust free as you can. Emery cloth is good for that. Also, it might be a good idea to take a flat file and clean any burrs or flakes of metal off the the key way. The edges of it will get mushed out a bit from wear. Those ragged edges will make it difficult to come apart and can damage the the brass bushing in the case when you slide it apart.You want the axle really smooth so that it will slide through the brass bushing easily.

 

You can get it apart with the clutch on but, while you're at it, it would be worth the little effort to replace the clutch seal too.

 

I've found the most difficult part of replacing the seals is getting the old ones out. Just be patient.


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#3 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted June 08, 2013 - 06:09 AM

I use a puller on the inner hubs.
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#4 New.Canadian.DB.Owner OFFLINE  

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Posted June 08, 2013 - 07:21 PM

Progress report & some questions:

 

After much penetrating oil & many "gentle" taps, I managed to get the Pawl Holder off.  The axle cleaned up nicely & the case cover came off cleanly. Thank you VSTROM803 for the warning on nicks & burrs.  Both ends of the axle had a slight mushrooming that would have snagged the bushings.  I did remove the clutch so I can clean it up.  

 

Seal replacement 5.JPG Seal replacement 6.JPG

 

Once I had the axle completely out of the housing, I discovered that there are wear marks where the oil seal use to be. 

 

Seal replacement 7.JPG Seal replacement 8.JPG Seal replacement 9.JPG

 

Question 1:  Is the wear bad enough to warrant installing Speedi-Sleeves (99112)?

 

When I got the original oil seal out, I realized it was enclosed front & back.  The new seals are enclosed only on one side.  The old seals are also twice as thick as the new ones, so I will be using two new seals to replace one old seal.

 

Seal replacement 10.JPG Seal replacement 11.JPG Seal replacement 12.JPG

 

Question 2: I know the outer seal will need to have the closed side out, but would you install the inner seal with the closed side in or out?

 

Seal replacement 13.JPG Seal replacement 14.JPG

 

 


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#5 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted June 08, 2013 - 07:45 PM

Personally, I would install them both with the closed side out. The lip should ride in a different spot on the axle.


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#6 VSTROM803 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 08, 2013 - 08:09 PM

You'll have to educate me on speedy sleeves. I haven't heard of the those.

 

My axles looked about like that on mine. I tore off a "ribbon" of emery cloth, grasped it on each end and buffed the area area as you buff a pair of shoes.One side seals good the other side still leaks just a little. Same side on both of my tractors. I only used one seal on mine though. I may go back and knock in another seal later.

 

I agree with amigatec. Put the closed side out for double oil sealing. If it's backwards it will let the oil come past it.


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#7 New.Canadian.DB.Owner OFFLINE  

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Posted June 08, 2013 - 08:39 PM

You'll have to educate me on speedy sleeves. I haven't heard of the those.

 

 

http://www.skf.com/g...eeve/index.html


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#8 New.Canadian.DB.Owner OFFLINE  

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Posted June 15, 2013 - 09:13 PM

Well, job done!  That is one greasy, time-consuming, job that isn't for the faint hearted.  I ruined three sets of clothes, and one seal.  Fortunately the store replaced the seal as being "out of round".  Everything was coated in years of oil soaked dirt with the texture of either grease or cement.   

 

Once I had the case split, I needed to make a new gasket.  Fortunately I had some gasket material laying around from a previous project.  It was good to see the internals are still in good shape after all these years.

 

b.jpg a.jpg

 

I found the easiest way to install the seals was to use an ABS pipe fitting.  The OD for the threaded end was just small enough to fit inside the hole and ID was just right for riding on just the edges of the seal. Tapped it in with a small tack hammer.  The plastic absorbed most of the shock. Preparation, patients, & pre-lube and are the key words.

 

c.jpg d.jpg e.jpg f.jpg g.jpg

 

While I had the DB in pieces, I took the opportunity to change the engine to one that will let the hood close.  I borrowed Traill95's idea to use a modified breather cover.  Mine was a soup tin.  I had to make a new rod to hold it in place.  The carb is #10 - 32 thread and I could not find a long enough bolt, so I used some ready rod & threaded one end at #10 - 32 and the other at #10 - 24 for a standard wing nut.

 

h0.jpg

 

I also made some hinge pins out of a broken mower brake rod and some washers.  Oh, and I finally got the clutch adjusted properly.  Guess it needed a good cleaning first.

 

h1.jpg h2.jpg

 

Some days, you can win.


Edited by New.Canadian.DB.Owner, June 15, 2013 - 09:16 PM.

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#9 VSTROM803 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 17, 2013 - 03:56 AM

That all looks great! I like the soup can air cleaner. That's a great idea.

 

Something I found that works good for hood pins are the pins that attach the plastic wheels to a gas grill I scrapped. They are identical to the original pins, just a little longer. Just cut them off and drill them for the retainer clip.

 

It looks like you have new clips for the hood. What are they?



#10 New.Canadian.DB.Owner OFFLINE  

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Posted June 18, 2013 - 06:50 AM

It looks like you have new clips for the hood. What are they?

 

Clips for hanging a broom on the wall.  The screw hole are side by side instead of one behind the other as on the hood, but I need to build pillow blocks for them anyway.  The hood is an inch shy of closing with the new engine.


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