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#16 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2013 - 01:34 PM

Best I can tell, this is a 314.  Both by serial number & the hood decals are 300 series style.  But they did make a 414S.


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#17 hatedge OFFLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2013 - 10:30 PM

Yeah im starting to doubt the PO. The engine is a K321 witch would be a 14hp if im not mistaking.That would make it possible to be a 314 and not a 416. Olcow hand, you say by the serial nombers you cant somewhat identify it?? I tried to search the serial and found nothing. Care to share your sources with me?

 

As for the mower Im starting to thing it cannot take a belly type mower. That would make it a seller if I get  the confirmation on me doubts. SAD cos I like the size of the machine. Being the tall typr o guy Im not comfotable on them smaller GTs

 

A guy ive been emailing for a year came over today and marveled at me wheel horse , MF 14 and allis too. He told me I could fetch 2000$ for each ( if I get the massey going) If that is true then 5 or 6k would fetch me a very nice GT with all the needed attachements!!!



#18 achomesteader OFFLINE  

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Posted June 08, 2013 - 05:41 AM

The tractor ID number is 1600051, which is a 314H. The identifier is the first three numbers of the serial number (= last three numbers of ID number).

 

You can download the operator's manual for your tractor here:

 

http://gardentractor...ners-operators/

 

 

The parts manual for tractor and attachments is here:

 

http://gardentractor...-310-312-parts/

 

 

The service manual is here:

 

http://gardentractor...service-manual/

 

You should be able to find a mower deck and tiller for your tractor. You'll also need a drive pulley (5" OD, 7/8" bore) for the tiller. It will go on the driven shaft of the bevel gear box on the left side of the tractor.

 

Edit: I just noticed that you'll also need the rear lift assembly, for your tractor, to be able to use a tiller.


Edited by achomesteader, June 08, 2013 - 06:19 AM.

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#19 hatedge OFFLINE  

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Posted June 08, 2013 - 04:52 PM

The tractor ID number is 1600051, which is a 314H. The identifier is the first three numbers of the serial number (= last three numbers of ID number).

 

You can download the operator's manual for your tractor here:

 

http://gardentractor...ners-operators/

 

 

The parts manual for tractor and attachments is here:

 

http://gardentractor...-310-312-parts/

 

 

The service manual is here:

 

http://gardentractor...service-manual/

 

You should be able to find a mower deck and tiller for your tractor. You'll also need a drive pulley (5" OD, 7/8" bore) for the tiller. It will go on the driven shaft of the bevel gear box on the left side of the tractor.

 

Edit: I just noticed that you'll also need the rear lift assembly, for your tractor, to be able to use a tiller.

I think I do have a kind of braket with a piece of tubing or pipe that is used for the rear lift. It seems like an original part.

For the tiller Im not in a big hurry since my garden is already up and running and that I own a 33'' JD tiller that I use on the inlaws JD317.

 

I took a look under the tractor and there doesnt seem to be much to hook a mower to, but My lack of experience might be the problem here :(



#20 achomesteader OFFLINE  

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Posted June 09, 2013 - 09:29 AM

 

I took a look under the tractor and there doesnt seem to be much to hook a mower to, but My lack of experience might be the problem here :(

 

The mower deck attaches to the mower bar hitches (welded to the front axle) with two pins. Instructions are in the tractor operator's manual.

 

314H mower bar hitches 2.jpg


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#21 skunkhome OFFLINE  

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Posted June 09, 2013 - 05:25 PM

It's a 300 series according to the front axle..
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#22 skunkhome OFFLINE  

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Posted June 09, 2013 - 05:26 PM

Oops posted that before I read all the way down.
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#23 skunkhome OFFLINE  

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Posted June 09, 2013 - 05:30 PM

Notice that the builders tag says "Lexington, SC". First I've seen since we owned a 312D, 40 years ago.
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#24 hatedge OFFLINE  

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Posted June 09, 2013 - 09:16 PM

The mower deck attaches to the mower bar hitches (welded to the front axle) with two pins. Instructions are in the tractor operator's manual.

 

attachicon.gif314H mower bar hitches 2.jpg

Thats all !? Cripes it seems less complicated tha JD wheel horse and bolens! :)



#25 hatedge OFFLINE  

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Posted June 09, 2013 - 09:19 PM

I know just the guy to help you....I'll get him here.  Calling Achomesteader!

LOL nice! it did work! :)



#26 hatedge OFFLINE  

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Posted June 09, 2013 - 09:22 PM

Notice that the builders tag says "Lexington, SC". First I've seen since we owned a 312D, 40 years ago.

Does it mean anything?



#27 hatedge OFFLINE  

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Posted June 09, 2013 - 09:40 PM

Well, When I got rid of the JD 112 last week the buyer brought over a bolens G14 in a close to beyond help state. I offered hid the price of scrap metal for it (80$) since even the engine was in pieces and the body was....welll it was quite bad. I called one of the rare guys round here who rebuilds Gts since his thing is Bolens. I told him it had a dead mower but a mint tiller and that since we have been mailing one another for a year, I would be happy to let him have it all for 200. (tiller here is worth 450) just so we finally met.

 

While the guy I call MR Bolens was her I showed him my GTs and he was quite amazed that I had let the JD112 go for 700$.

He started pricing the GTs I have here and He told me that I would be a fool to ask anything less than 8000$ in ''as is'' condition!!! Not that my Gts are in bad shape but theyre not mint. He told me that up here my wheel horse C160  would easily fetch 1600$ naked and since I have blade mower and blower I could probably fetch 3000$ That my massey MF14 with a dead engine runs in the 750$ range plus 200 for the mower etc etc etc....

 

I dont want to be a blood sucker and I want people to enjoy them GTs but am I loosing that much cash? should I really charge a bit more? It would surely help my new hobby because I usually make a clear profit of 1 or 200$ on sales but didnt care, now things a re different because Ive lost me job and could use a little income till I find work somewhere.

 

I guess What im asking is: Are tem Gts really worth that much?



#28 skunkhome OFFLINE  

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Posted June 14, 2013 - 06:24 PM

Does it mean anything?

When AC bought Simplicity they were slapped with a federal antitrust lawsuit claiming they AC controlled too much of the market constituting an unfair trade advantage. To distance themselves from Simplicity in Port Washington and prevent a forced divestiture AC built a plant at Lexington SC and started assembling tractors there. The first all AC designed large frame tractors were the 300 series and early models in the series were marked "Lexington, SC". In the southern blocks the destination charges from SC were much higher than those from WS because of the higher volume of freight coming out of the midwest, even though SC was physically much closer . The situation raised a stink in the early '70's with the dealers who saw the destination charges as hurting their competitive standing and thought AC was gouging them on freight. I think it is no coincidence later models were just labeled with the corporate address of Milwaukee, WS though they were still made and shipped from Leington, SC.
The lawsuit was set aside by the Nixon administration in 1974 and the ink wasn't dry on the executive order before AC closed the plant in Lexington and the line of tractors represented by the 300 & 400 series died. From then on the AC and Simplicity tractors differed only in power plants and paint schemes. They even shared the same 7 digit builders number sequence starting with 1690000. To most it means nothing but to me it is an interesting bit of "history"

Edited by skunkhome, June 14, 2013 - 06:33 PM.

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#29 hatedge OFFLINE  

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Posted June 14, 2013 - 11:41 PM

All I can say is WOW. Thank you so much for sharing this. It is a very interesting bit of history.



#30 hatedge OFFLINE  

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Posted June 28, 2013 - 07:03 AM

Darn thigs ran fine for a day then started sputtering and hard starting. Then it stated to back-fire and spit fuel out the carb  :mad2:

 

Pulled all the fuel system and carb out. So much rust and gel from cheap gas and sloppy storage procedures. Couldnt find a replacement fuel line filter so I hooked everything straigh line to give the machine a try. It now works quite well but the engine tends to die out below mid throttle. Gotta re-adjust that carb....I dont like adjusting carbs, that and timing points. It takes me days to get either right. I read procedures and use all the tricks I get but I just suck at it :wallbanging:

 

Although now I have a new gadget that should help me acheive better carb tuning. Ive found a laser rpm meter. That should help me tune carb to get proper rpm  :D


Edited by hatedge, June 28, 2013 - 07:05 AM.





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