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Wheel Horse Gt14


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#31 glenn27 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2013 - 09:16 AM

Okay, I know what you are talking about now... The tank is full and doesn't leak but it does appear that it might have a repair job down in that corner.

Yes--now looking at that last picture--it (gas tank )  appears to have been patched---I think viberation/heat/over long periods of time--- are the two culprits there--and a just bad design--but anyway--

--just one of the many idioscrencies (sp) on this particular model.

 

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#32 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2013 - 02:32 PM

 


I like how you think Daniel... honestly I've already been sizing up the GT14 for turning the K321 90 degrees and running a driveshaft driven rearend  :D

 

 

 

Put a diesel in it and use the belt. You will still be able to dig the tires down with no problem. I planted 120 shrubs with this yesterday. That hoe is a foot in the ground and the tractor doesn't know it's back there.  Started life as a W.H. 12 auto.

 WH planting trees 6-13 003.JPG WH planting trees 6-13 001.JPG

 

It looks like it's earned a paint job this fall.


Edited by Cvans, June 26, 2013 - 03:35 PM.

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#33 KC9KAS OFFLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2013 - 06:01 PM

post-10198-0-50887200-1371176373_thumb.j

The round piece sticking up to the left of the hose is a "tow valve". It needs to be in 1 direction to "tow" the tractor, and turned 90* for the hydro trannsmission to work properly. Yours looks to be somewhat rusted, so you better soak it with penetration oil.

It does not turn tight to work, just like a ball valve....90* turn for open/close.


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#34 glenn27 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2013 - 06:07 PM

post-10198-0-50887200-1371176373_thumb.j

The round piece sticking up to the left of the hose is a "tow valve". It needs to be in 1 direction to "tow" the tractor, and turned 90* for the hydro trannsmission to work properly. Yours looks to be somewhat rusted, so you better soak it with penetration oil.

It does not turn tight to work, just like a ball valve....90* turn for open/close.

************
You are right --and should be a little pin sticking out of one side/or other to turn it with--may be broken off flush with the round part

 

Good idea about soaking it w/ blaster......


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#35 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2013 - 06:24 PM

Soaking/tapping/soaking/tapping....after a while, she'll likely work loose.


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#36 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2013 - 07:23 PM

post-10198-0-50887200-1371176373_thumb.j

The round piece sticking up to the left of the hose is a "tow valve". It needs to be in 1 direction to "tow" the tractor, and turned 90* for the hydro trannsmission to work properly. Yours looks to be somewhat rusted, so you better soak it with penetration oil.

It does not turn tight to work, just like a ball valve....90* turn for open/close.

 

The only thing I'd like to add is you need to turn the valve 180 degrees. It should have a 1 1/2" long roll pin in it to use as a handle and indicator. it should be flush in the shaft on one side.


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#37 twostep ONLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2013 - 09:48 PM

 

 

Put a diesel in it and use the belt.

 

LOL, the K321 runs great and seems to be pretty new... it's the rear hydro that I am more concerned with. It's 45 years old and doens't really seem as fast as i would expect. I would love to put a diesel in it though :) I watched your repower with that 12 and it is badass!

 

The round piece sticking up to the left of the hose is a "tow valve". It needs to be in 1 direction to "tow" the tractor, and turned 90* for the hydro trannsmission to work properly. Yours looks to be somewhat rusted, so you better soak it with penetration oil.

It does not turn tight to work, just like a ball valve....90* turn for open/close.

 

Yeah, that's the reason I snapped that picture. I new it was the tow valve but I wasn't sure if it was supposed to tighten down like the JD 140's does. It actually turns freely... I just use a pair of pliers.

 

The only thing I'd like to add is you need to turn the valve 180 degrees. It should have a 1 1/2" long roll pin in it to use as a handle and indicator. it should be flush in the shaft on one side.

 

This brings me to my next question... it doesn't seem which way the valve is turned, it doesn't have any effect on the performace of the hydro. I only tried it in a couple of different positions though.

 

So, when I replace the roll pin how do I know which way the exposed end faces???


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#38 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2013 - 09:55 PM

The indicator will face forward when it's engaged and to the rear of the tractor in free wheel. Only way to find out which is which is to point 1 hole to the front and see if it moves, then rotate it 180 and it shouldn't move. The roll pin will be installed to point forward when you  figure that out. Best I can tell you. Trial and error.


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#39 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2013 - 11:22 PM

 

 it's the rear hydro that I am more concerned with.

 

In this case the Hydro has turned out better than any of the Kohlers that have landed here. I have 3 12hp. Kohlers and they all have issues. 

 

I went through the same issue with that hydro by-pass. Once I got it figure out it has worked fine. Did you change the filter on your hydro? If it is getting plugged it will slow you tractor down. Also if your governor is set low your speed will be reduced. 


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#40 twostep ONLINE  

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Posted June 27, 2013 - 06:43 AM

Thanks Guys, this is why I love this forum!

 

Supposedly the hydro has fresh fluid and filter but I'm not really sure. As soon as I get a couple of other things fixed I'll put it to work and test out the tranny by pulling something really heavy... that will be the true test since I'm not that concerned with it being fast, just strong.



#41 glenn27 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 27, 2013 - 08:13 AM

The 'movement' of the hydro selector lever (betwixt your legs) can also be adjusted to give a little more travel.

 

However, best,-- I think to make sure the hydro itself is  o.k. first..............Might be worth it to change the tranny fluid and filter--then you know  what you have in there, to starty your own maint. progvram.

Can use either ATF or 10-W30 motor oil in them--I have seen both. .....................

ATF seems to make the seals / o-rings swell a little more, I believe.

 

This thread is getting more interesting__i;lll follow along.....



#42 hatedge OFFLINE  

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Posted June 27, 2013 - 12:55 PM

The 'movement' of the hydro selector lever (betwixt your legs) can also be adjusted to give a little more travel.

 

However, best,-- I think to make sure the hydro itself is  o.k. first..............Might be worth it to change the tranny fluid and filter--then you know  what you have in there, to starty your own maint. progvram.

Can use either ATF or 10-W30 motor oil in them--I have seen both. .....................

ATF seems to make the seals / o-rings swell a little more, I believe.

 

This thread is getting more interesting__i;lll follow along.....

I agree it is getting very interesting. Ive been following from start and look foward each day to read some more :)



#43 twostep ONLINE  

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Posted June 29, 2013 - 12:12 AM

Went to pick up a parts 1972 GT-14 tonight... It is a later year  PO said he new a guy that was clearing out a barn (scrapping) and this was sitting in the corner. The barn owner said it had been sitting for 20+ years. It has a LOT of surface rust but still very solid and the sheet metal is straight as and arrow. Paint isn't as good as the 69's but the tins are much straighter. All of the linkages and steering is MUCH tighter also. I was sitting in a side yard covered only by spider webs. The PO got a battery, gave it a shot of starting fluid and it fired on the second or third try. Zero smoke. The Engine is clean and it's oil looked really nice and so did the hydro fluid. Speaking of, it has the double pulley on the hydro and it also has the 3pt hitch rock shaft and lift rod. Hydro had no problem moving the 900 pound gt with three FLAT tires and one that was a little low. The choke and throttle cables are missing. The electic PTO works off of the original switch. Hood decals are in great shape as well. It came with one really nice spare front rim and pretty new USA carlisle tire. The rear has wider tires. I know that the 1054A had wider tires... anyone know about wider tires on the GT-14? Considering the parts that I got, I think I made out pretty good.

 

But now I'm in a position where I don't want to part out one of them. :wallbanging:

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#44 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted June 29, 2013 - 12:32 AM

Bobby, The 3pt and double pulley are both needed for the tiller that was used on the GT14. You need to check back with the guy ad make sure there isn't a WH tiller sitting around some where with a 3pt hitch and it's own pto throw out handle.

 

Very nice find and I would keep them both. :thumbs:


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#45 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted June 29, 2013 - 12:35 AM

Here's 1 for sale with the tiller mounted on it so you can see what you are looking for. The guy is way too high on this one.

 

http://desmoines.cra...3852994116.html

3E43M63N15I35r75t3d665931ee45f88e10a9.jp

3Gc3Fa3Je5sc5Hf5M7d6693ab63e216a1142d.jp

3E83Gf3N95s35J55ted66d5804937fb521244.jp


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