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Wheel Horse Gt14


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#16 twostep OFFLINE  

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Posted June 13, 2013 - 09:32 PM

Got the GT14 tonight. This thing is a hoss. I think I'll like it. Someone has put quite a bit of work into this thing. Quite a bit of new parts. The engine runs GREAT and the hydro seems to pull good. I mowed a little strip and the deck is nice and quite. The gas tank does not leak (what you see in the pic is from the cap, it's not orginal) but I did see one little spot that looks like it was repaired. Anyone have pointers on how to preserve plastic tanks? Even if this one is shot I've already got ideas for replacing it.

 

Things to do:

-cables... both are junk or broke.

-front hubs... one is a little tight so I'm going to pull them apart, inspect and do whatever repairs are needed.

-get a third blade for the deck... the right most blade is gone but the two that are there mow very nice.

-check all fluids.

-go through the wiring... it's a mess.

-the parking brake is not right. not sure what is up with it. I'll post up some detailed pictures when I get time to tear into it.

 

Things I want to do:

-paint the engine tins.

-give it a good cleaning.

-repair the lights or rig up something new.

-air cleaner, fab up one like my JD has.

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Edited by twostep, June 13, 2013 - 09:34 PM.

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#17 hatedge OFFLINE  

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Posted June 17, 2013 - 08:04 PM

Got the GT14 tonight. This thing is a hoss. I think I'll like it. Someone has put quite a bit of work into this thing. Quite a bit of new parts. The engine runs GREAT and the hydro seems to pull good. I mowed a little strip and the deck is nice and quite. The gas tank does not leak (what you see in the pic is from the cap, it's not orginal) but I did see one little spot that looks like it was repaired. Anyone have pointers on how to preserve plastic tanks? Even if this one is shot I've already got ideas for replacing it.

 

Things to do:

-cables... both are junk or broke.

-front hubs... one is a little tight so I'm going to pull them apart, inspect and do whatever repairs are needed.

-get a third blade for the deck... the right most blade is gone but the two that are there mow very nice.

-check all fluids.

-go through the wiring... it's a mess.

-the parking brake is not right. not sure what is up with it. I'll post up some detailed pictures when I get time to tear into it.

 

Things I want to do:

-paint the engine tins.

-give it a good cleaning.

-repair the lights or rig up something new.

-air cleaner, fab up one like my JD has.

 It looks like a decent base to start from :thumbs:  Like I said earlier : WH are pretty impressive and quite reliable. Even though they are pretty rare up here the can easily be fixed for a fraction of the price on any other GT. When I first got mine I had a plan of fixing it quick and selling fast. Now that Ive been using it as the worker around the house I dont want to part with it and would surely love to find another one. Great pick, hope you enjoy it as much as me  :rocker2:


Edited by hatedge, June 17, 2013 - 08:05 PM.

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#18 glenn27 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2013 - 07:37 AM

It is a 69 Gt-14---check , like said--for the little nipple that comes out down on the right front side--for cracks or repairs..

 

Also the parking brake lever is bent or on  way wrond--(last lever on right)---be careful trying to move the tractor with the brake pulled up--doesn't take much to crack that little lawl down in the tranny--then you have a problem......Make sure it;s charging  also---that should be a 10 a mp. system and the amp guage will read 15-0-15 plus.

 

Good luck--

 

glenn



#19 twostep OFFLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2013 - 02:52 PM

It is a 69 Gt-14---check , like said--for the little nipple that comes out down on the right front side--for cracks or repairs..

 

Also the parking brake lever is bent or on  way wrond--(last lever on right)---be careful trying to move the tractor with the brake pulled up--doesn't take much to crack that little lawl down in the tranny--then you have a problem......Make sure it;s charging  also---that should be a 10 a mp. system and the amp guage will read 15-0-15 plus.

 

Good luck--

 

glenn

Thanks for the info.

 

I did some work on the GT this past weekend. First I lubed, rerouted and hooked up the choke cable, works great and now I don't have to pull the hood evertime I cold start it. Next I pulled the deck off and pressure washed it. The deck tin is in rough shape but the mechanical components are in amazing shape... PO must have put new bearings in. The hanger parts are shot though... so the mower deck is going in storage. I want to keep the GT14 as my loader GT anyway. Next I pulled the beat up drive belt guard off. It was bent in a few places and all but two of the spot welds on the belt guides were broken. Drilled a couple of holes and re-spot welded them. Ever since I picked it up I knew that the parking brake lever was pulled up instead of pushed down. It wouldn't go down though. Plus when it is pulled up there is supposed to be no tention on the idler pully... but there is anyway. So the drive belt must be shorter than it should be. So when I was inspecting I also I noticed that the lever is actually on backwards. The parking pawl is obviosly already broken off and I've read/seen how you can repair but the next question is where is the part that broke off??? Just sitting in the bottom of the case?

 

Obviously there are a few things to work out but the GT is solid and it runs great! The hydro doesn't seem to have the speed I expect. Not sure about it...

 

Does anyone know if one of the C or D series hydro's will work on the GT14?



#20 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2013 - 03:46 PM

I've owned  both a GT14 and a couple C120's, but been a while.  I tend to think they are the same hydro/diff???  TD&H should be able to help.



#21 glenn27 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2013 - 07:10 AM

Nope--Oldcowhand--not the same hydro......one is Sundstran--one is a hydrogear.--but thatt's ok.

 

Your wireing is a mess----let me make a  suggestion   (we just finished re-doing one) to take up to the  Wheelhorse show.

 

Get the wireing diagram (in parts/owners manual)--copy it, and get it blown up to about twice size/laminate on both sides-(Staples or Office Max) for a couple bucks)-

now  greasy hand prints won't bother it..........

 

Do away with the big battery and those huge cables--you don't need all that to crank this over--that engine will turn over fine with a small L & G battery, Get the one with the posts  away from the steerring wheel. you may have to redo your battery hold downs a little, but now you have room to get in there and work.

you don't need a lot of ampreage to start this tractor as it's electronic ignition.

 

1st---Loose all those blue scotch loks connections!!!!!!  What a pain they are!

 

Start with the same color wire as diagram and do one wire at a time. Clean every connection and every ground good. (little wire brush on dremel tool works good for this). It's going to take a while, but do it right--do it one time, and it should last as long as you have the tractor.  Most of the wires run up along the left side hood support rod--stay away from right side of engine where exhaust heat is, except for batter5y ground, which bolts to second bolt/nut from hoodstand....

 

Front wheel hubs have car- type wheel bearings and seals--just llike an older Ford car--can be bought at any good  bearing supply store.

 

Hope some of this helps you out--- :wave:

 

good luck!

 

 

P.S>__BTW-looking back again at your pictures---you have the original two--spoke steering wheel (very desireable and hard to find)--protect that at all  cost!!!!!!

--DO NOT leave out in the weather. Please!!When those steering wheels were replaced, they use a three spoke.

 

glenn


Edited by glenn27, June 25, 2013 - 07:30 AM.

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#22 twostep OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2013 - 08:26 AM

Thanks for all of the advice Glenn! Where are located? there were a could of nice looking rebuilt GT14's on CL from up in IN... yours?

 

The battery is actually a LG&T battery, they just have large wires with the bolt for the top post terminal ran through the LG&T battery terminal hole. But as long as the battery is good I'll keep it, no matter what size it is! Those things are too expensive these days!!! Why do you say to get rid of it? Both of my other GT's have automotive batteries.

 

Automotive wiring is what I do for a living so no worries about cleaning up that rats nest... but I'll completely rewire it with new switches and all when the time comes.

 

Would you know any part numbers for the wheel bearings? I've not pulled them off yet but if I could pick them up on my way home that would be nice.

 

Thank you for the info on the steering wheel too, I had noticed that pretty much all other GT14's I had seen used a 3 spoke wheel but wasn't sure why. This one is in pretty good condition, no cracks but the center cap is missing. Do you know if the two spoke and 3 spoke are interchangeable? The column has a woodruff key instead of splines.



#23 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2013 - 08:37 AM

Nope--Oldcowhand--not the same hydro......one is Sundstran--one is a hydrogear.--but thatt's ok.

glenn

 

Well, they look similar!  I'm always happy to be corrected, but then I did leave my comment in question.  :smilewink:   Sundstrand owns Hydrogear now anyways, as many units are marked "Sundstrand Hydrogear"!  :D



#24 twostep OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2013 - 08:44 AM

...like said--for the little nipple that comes out down on the right front side--for cracks or repairs..

 

I don't see any little nipple that comes down the right side. do you have a picture of what you are talking about?



#25 glenn27 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2013 - 04:16 PM

Well, they look similar!  I'm always happy to be corrected, but then I did leave my comment in question.  :smilewink:   Sundstrand owns Hydrogear now anyways, as many units are marked "Sundstrand Hydrogear"!  :D

You are fine, my man........just one  won't interchange with the other without a lot of work--



#26 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2013 - 04:17 PM

You are fine, my man........just one  won't interchange with the other without a lot of work--

 

 

Well, if you follow some of my projects, not being a straight-up swap never stands in my way!  :smilewink:   I like challenges!  :D


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#27 glenn27 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2013 - 04:23 PM

I don't see any little nipple that comes down the right side. do you have a picture of what you are talking about?

Look on the right hand side off tractor--down by bottom frame rail--right at back of gas tank where fuel line runs back up to top---goes to a little metal fuel shutoff--down on the  edge of the bottom rail..

 

....................also make sure it has the metal 'heat shield' in between engine and gas tank--just a simple sheet of metal with about a 45 degree bend in it--attached by two small bolts to the top frame rail/hood support.  

Keeps your gas tank from getting blistered.

 

As to my comment about the battery earlier--if it works and you like it--o.k---just haveing the smaller battery and cables  (size #6) is good---- (I couldn't tell the size battery from picture--the smaller one connected right gives you room to work down in there--)

Just trying  to  help--I just went thru this same minefield with two of them. very recently.... :wallbanging:  :wallbanging:

 

glenn


Edited by glenn27, June 25, 2013 - 04:26 PM.

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#28 glenn27 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2013 - 04:25 PM

You are fine, my man........just one  won't interchange with the other without a lot of work--

Watched many of your accomplishments on other forum, and was truely impressed.

 

glenn


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#29 twostep OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2013 - 09:54 PM

Look on the right hand side off tractor--down by bottom frame rail--right at back of gas tank where fuel line runs back up to top---goes to a little metal fuel shutoff--down on the  edge of the bottom rail..

 

....................also make sure it has the metal 'heat shield' in between engine and gas tank--just a simple sheet of metal with about a 45 degree bend in it--attached by two small bolts to the top frame rail/hood support.  

Keeps your gas tank from getting blistered....

Okay, I know what you are talking about now... The tank is full and doesn't leak but it does appear that it might have a repair job down in that corner.

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#30 twostep OFFLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2013 - 07:14 AM

Well, if you follow some of my projects, not being a straight-up swap never stands in my way!  :smilewink:   I like challenges!  :D

 

I like how you think Daniel... honestly I've already been sizing up the GT14 for turning the K321 90 degrees and running a driveshaft driven rearend :D






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