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Posted July 06, 2013 - 05:03 PM
That's like saying my Chevy is just a Bel Air! It's all good. And the 12hp is icing on the cake.
Hey JS, have you seen the poor man's powersteering conversions where they put a flat roller bearing under the axle above the spindle flange??? Now would be a good time.
No I havent seen that but you have my interest, got a link or some pics?
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Posted July 06, 2013 - 05:06 PM
Your doing fantastic work with that 16 Auto!! I love my Wheel Horse, although its just a B-80, but it has been upgraded to a 12hp K301. I think you'll find it to be a very solid built machine that will serve you well for many years to come, especially with the great job your doing on it.
Hear is a pic of mine.
Matt
Nice machine you have there, sweet engine upgrade! What size tires is that machine sporting? I was thinking of the same configuration on the tires as this will likely never get a mower deck on it.
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Posted July 06, 2013 - 07:36 PM
No I havent seen that but you have my interest, got a link or some pics?
I lost the original posting on this. I'm searching it out. This is the part that makes this possible.
http://www.mcmaster....earings/=nicxbc
These bearings are installed between the bottom of the axle casting and the flange on the spindle. It is supposed to stop a lot of friction. I've seen it done on WHs and also Case.
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Posted July 07, 2013 - 05:16 PM
I lost the original posting on this. I'm searching it out. This is the part that makes this possible.
http://www.mcmaster....earings/=nicxbc
These bearings are installed between the bottom of the axle casting and the flange on the spindle. It is supposed to stop a lot of friction. I've seen it done on WHs and also Case.
Question,,, since the thickness of the bearing asm is going to pull the spindle down past the E clip groove do you remember how they modified the spindle to retain it in the axle?
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Posted July 07, 2013 - 06:13 PM
I believe they milled off the bottom of the axle casting. Before I did that though, I would check to see how much slop there is. As you see, that bearing isn't very thick. I did get some other bearing numbers if you need them.
A couple of people on MyTractorForum did this a couple of years ago and they swear that the steering effort was much improved.
An other thought is if you want to increase the spindles to 1". This is a common improvement when adding a FEL to the tractor.
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Posted July 08, 2013 - 12:55 PM
Here is another thread that deals with different ways to handle the problem.
http://www.mytractor...ad.php?t=158841
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Posted July 08, 2013 - 09:01 PM
Well no new pics today but I did get a few things done up. I made the bushings for the steering shaft, and the brake pedal. Put the dash and steering wheel back in, lift cyl is back in, brake pedal and rod are back on the machine also. I had to tear the steering column back apart because I forgot an important item when assembling (well important to me) the horse in the center of the wheel didnt sit upright it was sideways, now it sits proper when the wheels are straight ahead. I must say with the new bushing installed the steering is almost as tight as my new JD, hardly any free play. I suppose the bushings I made today are probably still available but in my opinion they dont have enough surface area for me, so I made the brake pedal bushings wider so they extend into the pedal further and the steer bushing now has a thrust surface so it cant work it way out of the casting. I started working on the hydro control asm in hopes it will work as designed, its missing the small woodruff key that keys the bushing in the friction asm to the shaft and the shaft was rusty, should just need to get a key and then assemble.
The bearings in the spindles may get done at some point if I see a need to reduce steering effort, but at this time I will just shoot for like new stock. Once I get things all back to working order and I find the machine will do the job I'll start on the modifications, another thing on the top of the mod list would be a foot controlled hydro, Im not sure it can be adapted but I might give it a shot as I like the twin pedals on the JD.
Anyone know how large a diameter tire can be fitted on the rear? I pulled off the 23x8.5x12 super cracked turfs and will replace them with lug tires, I suppose one of the desireable things in a plow tractor is clearance under the machine? Or will 23 dia tires be good enough?
Edited by js5020, July 08, 2013 - 10:08 PM.
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Posted July 08, 2013 - 09:40 PM
Edited by Team_Green, July 08, 2013 - 09:42 PM.
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Posted July 09, 2013 - 04:27 AM
One of the vendors on Redsquare makes a kit for the 3,4,and 500 series tractors. Maybe you could adapt it to fit your 16.
http://www.wheelhors...s-now-for-sale/
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Posted July 09, 2013 - 08:12 AM
Im getting down to the point where I will have to deal with that bad keyway on the axle, question is how to deal with it,,,, I see many repair the issue by disassembling the trans and cutting a new one, but I recently found what they call "keyless hubs",, these would not require the trans to be disassembled but I would need to machine the wheel hub or fabricate a new one to accept the keyless device,,,, personally Id rather machine a hub or fab a new one as it seems this is a problem with these axles from all the occurances I have read about,,,, the hub I saw was from Fenner and they claimed it would support 360 ftlbs of torque, would that be heavy enough for a machine this size?
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Posted July 09, 2013 - 08:20 AM
I'm sure you could turn it into a twin pedal hydro.. I have looked at teh JD to do so and cutting the floor pan is the worst part of it all..
I think I could fab a treadle pedal fairly easy, a two pedal would be super sweet. I have zero plans for a mid mount mower on this thing so I wont be limited to with having a deck in the way. I have purposely left the closure plate off under the hydro control so I dont have to remove it later all I have to do is keep it so I dont loose ground clearance and doesnt get tangled up in the lift bar for the snow plow. This will be a mod after I get it moving in stock form.
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Posted July 09, 2013 - 08:23 AM
One of the vendors on Redsquare makes a kit for the 3,4,and 500 series tractors. Maybe you could adapt it to fit your 16.
I saw that kit before and revisited it again but they claim it will only work on an Eaton hydro, bummer. But as you said maybe it could be adapted?
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Posted July 09, 2013 - 10:41 AM
Im getting down to the point where I will have to deal with that bad keyway on the axle, question is how to deal with it,,,, I see many repair the issue by disassembling the trans and cutting a new one, but I recently found what they call "keyless hubs",, these would not require the trans to be disassembled but I would need to machine the wheel hub or fabricate a new one to accept the keyless device,,,, personally Id rather machine a hub or fab a new one as it seems this is a problem with these axles from all the occurances I have read about,,,, the hub I saw was from Fenner and they claimed it would support 360 ftlbs of torque, would that be heavy enough for a machine this size?
Im just tossing out a idea here with out seeing what your working with.. Can you cut splines instead of a key way? Then a file or blade can be used to cut splines in your hub..
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Posted July 09, 2013 - 10:52 AM
I've seen folks cross drill the hub and axle and install a bolt.
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Posted July 09, 2013 - 03:05 PM
More eye candy,,,,,
[/URL]">http://<a href='http...llow external'>
[/URL]">http://<a href='http...llow external'>
[/URL]">http://<a href='http...llow external'>
Really hazy out, but the paint turned out much better than I expected.
Edited by js5020, July 09, 2013 - 03:08 PM.
