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Mf 12 Rebirthed


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#31 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted August 16, 2013 - 07:58 AM

Looks like things are coming along just fine. :thumbs:

 

have you considered setting up an E-tank. That might be the answer for cleaning up

the grill screen.

 

I might be wrong, but I think the aluminum tranny is supposed to be painted

Flint Metallic Grey. Use Zinc Chromate primer on the aluminum. It takes a while

to dry, but holds up well.

I thought so too Will but when I got all the dirt & grime washed away I realized it has never been painted just a bright aluminum. I would like to paint it the silver color to match the metal cast area.



#32 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted August 16, 2013 - 08:15 AM

I worked on this so late last night I never posted any pics of my progress. I got the tower box done & boy was it a challenge painting. The axle was a project in it's self. I pressure washed the GT before dismantling but the little cast crevices held onto a lot of grease & you know how that reacts to SB...it's like snot! I scraped & cleaned on this one piece a long time. I also cleaned out all the old grease in the spindle holes & center bolt hole. Once I got all the grease out I used a tooth brush to finish up the holes, this left them nice & clean. I think I'll put some grease fittings on these before I finish paint.

 get-attachment (2).jpg

 

This tower box had some Hammerite paint on it & this stuff is durable. I found out if you scrape the surface then SB it comes off a lot easier.

get-attachment (1).jpg get-attachment (3).jpg

 

Rear axle before

get-attachment (18).jpg

 

After

get-attachment (4).jpg

 


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#33 twostep OFFLINE  

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Posted August 16, 2013 - 08:55 AM

I worked on this so late last night I never posted any pics of my progress. I got the tower box done & boy was it a challenge painting. The axle was a project in it's self. I pressure washed the GT before dismantling but the little cast crevices held onto a lot of grease & you know how that reacts to SB...it's like snot! I scraped & cleaned on this one piece a long time. I also cleaned out all the old grease in the spindle holes & center bolt hole. Once I got all the grease out I used a tooth brush to finish up the holes...

 

First, great work on this rebuild!! Nice to see you taking the time to do it right.

 

For cleaning off 40 year old grease caked parts try cooking them. I have a cheap turkey cooking pot that I fill up with water and add a cup or two of concentrate degreaser. Bring it almost to a boil and let it simmer for 15 minutes (or an hour if you get busy doing other things and forget). Then hit it with a brush. Rinse and let dry.


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#34 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted August 31, 2013 - 09:45 AM

Well here is the last of the silver parts all degreased & ready to SB. I have a 16' fence rail hanging in my garage loaded with primed parts. Looks like some fiber glass work to do on the dash box. It has some FG mesh work done inside very poorly. I'll grind most of that out & start over. This FG work will bring back memories. The last time I did any was on a 1964 Impala SS...I was 18 years young at the time.

 

parts.jpg parts2.jpg



#35 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted August 31, 2013 - 11:06 AM

Interesting find while cleaning this arm. It had been broken & repaired. It looks like a very good repair job. I bought this GT back in the early 80's & cut about 3 acres of grass twice a month for many years. The only thing I done was replaced all the belts when I bought it & just a couple there after. Since it has been working all this time I don't think I'll worry about replacing it. I might search the piece out for later in case I need it.

 

parts3.jpg parts4.jpg


Edited by Sawdust, August 31, 2013 - 11:07 AM.

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#36 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted September 18, 2013 - 11:20 PM

As most know I had my surgery last week & everything went very well. Before I was admitted I succeeded in getting all the silver parts cleaned, SB, & primed. I'm hoping in the next 3 months I can start finish coating some of the silver parts or start on the red parts. I had my right shoulder replaced 2 years ago so I know I won't be back to normal for about 6-8 months as far as strength goes. I know we all like pics so here is where my MF12 will be hanging around for awhile.

Most of the heavy parts are in the garage

get-attachment (28).jpg

 

In all my rush I forgot to SB & prime the inside of my seat pan, see my CC 1250 peeping out for attention. Lol

get-attachment (29).jpg

 

The smaller parts are under my train layout.

get-attachment (30).jpg

 

While I'm recovering I will be wearing this forum out gathering info & ideas. I only have to replace a few parts. The holy grail of all MF owners is the red plastic hood nose ring, steering wheel center cap, all tie rod ends, & 2 idler pulleys. I also have the CC 1250 that has the governor rod broke. When my nurse/wife baby sits the GK I might sneak out to the garage & do a little dis manteling on that project.Thanks again for looking & I'll be around


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#37 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted September 19, 2013 - 08:33 AM

At least you will be able to tinker and keep your mind busy. If ya need some lifting or anything, please let me know, I'm not that far away!


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#38 TerryD OFFLINE  

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Posted September 20, 2013 - 07:42 AM

I've really enjoyed your writeup and pictures so far. I have a '71 MF10 that needs the same attention as soon as I can take it off yard duty. I'll be watching to see how yours turns out.

 

Thanks, Terry


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#39 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2013 - 08:55 AM

Jim, have you decided on what red you will be using? Spray bomb or going for a spray gun/auto paint?


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#40 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2013 - 11:59 AM

I'm really at a stand still on the finish on this GT. I really like the Hammerite silver for the metalic gray areas mainly because I have so much pitting. I was thinking about some light duty bondo on these areas then using the factory paint color.  I will be using the silver mist for the other areas. On the red areas I will be using the factory red rouge. I have got everything on this GT totally apart & want to basically have a full restore but I'm struggling with using the Hammerite or not. I still have the old fashion canister sprayer & I really like the HVLP sprayers but haven't bought one yet. I will be spraying everything with a sprayer. I only used the rattle cans on the primer because of the convenience & not having a lot of parts at one time to spray....I hate cleaning the guns. I'm not sure yet what brand to use on the factory paint. I have been taking notes on everyone's comments on the paint...Napa, Sherwin Williams, & Martin Senior are the only one's I have heard about. Any other suggestions would be appreciated by anyone. Thanks!



#41 IHCubGuy ONLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2013 - 03:41 PM

I used the regular Massey paint from Agco.  Sprayed well and has hald up good so far and is cheaper than most others.  On the finish I personally would use the body filler and then paint over it with the regular paint.


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#42 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2013 - 07:03 PM

I'm with CubGuy. I would use filler and Agco paints.

I'd get 2 spray cans of silver mist, for the grill and rims, and 4 cans

flint metallic grey. Being there's so many flint parts, I find it easier to

throw out a few empty spray cans, rather than clean the gun 3 times.

Spray gun the red, with wet look hardener added. It looks sooooo

much better than spray can red.

Just my 2 cents.

Looking forward to seeing come back together.


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#43 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted October 08, 2013 - 10:45 AM

I got home yesterday from therapy & was hurting so I thought If I'm going to be hurting I might as well try to get some tractor time in. I have a weight limit of a cup of coffee in my left hand so I can't pick anything up, push or pull but I can stable things pretty good. I knew this light area was going to be a project in its self so I got the hood out & started to dismantle. The hood doesn't have any rust through just surface. The light area was pop riveted so I'll have to fill in them holes. I need to get the plastic trim so I can figure out how all this goes together.

 

The Hood.

hood.jpg Hood 3.jpg

 

As you can see this light assembly had to go! I managed to cut the rubber housing & pull the lenses out to salvage them. They were always nice & bright. The lens are marked GE 35W Made IN USA. This is good.

Hood 2.jpg Light Lens.jpg

 

The light plate is in bad shape but repairable. Someone added another plate on top. The original still has the top brackets on but nothing else. It also has been tack welded on the right bottom side. The hood has some tabs on the side but I'm not sure what for yet. 

Light Panel.jpg Light Panel 4.jpg Light Panel 3.jpg Light Panel 2.jpg

 

I'm going to post a request & also mention here if anyone has some close up pics of the light area inside & out I would appreciate it. Not having the plastic trim makes this confusing on how all this goes together originally. The original light panel still has the two bolts in the middle for the lens bracket in which I can make. It still has the two tabs at the top & the hood has tabs on each side  for some reason. They just lay flat against the hood. Thanks again for looking!

 


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#44 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2014 - 07:26 AM

I may be a bit late here, but then, maybe you'd put this on hold for the winter, with

your recovery still underway.

 

This is the only picture I could find on my HD. I'll be in M hall in the next day

or so, and take some good close ups, in and out.

P1010191.JPG

 

I have one of those idler arms that was repaired.

P1010103.JPG

 

You're welcome to have it, but you'll have to wait a bit. It's under 3 ft of snow

right now. Remind me when spring arrives.

 

 

 


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#45 bigge61 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2014 - 06:21 PM

On your rust pitting issue, when I had my 66 Chevy Caprice painted my buddy used a product called All Metal to fill in a hole in my hood (temp. fix until I can find a good one)  That stuff is super hard when it cures and, regretfully so, has been on the car for 4 years now and you still couldn't tell where the repair is!


Edited by bigge61, January 12, 2014 - 06:21 PM.

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