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Mf 12 Rebirthed


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#1 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted June 01, 2013 - 11:53 AM

Guys I'm starting a new topic for my project so I don't over crowd my http://gardentractor...84-just-joined/ thread. Pardon me for a repeat of some info from there .

 

Now the good stuff. I bought this tractor back in the late eighties for $500. I had just previously bought 9 acres & needed something bad to cut about 3 acres 2-3 times a month. Being old school & appreciating the quality for old things buying something new never crossed my mind. I found this on Craigslist & long story short the guy lived just 3 sections down from me & became a good friend. The only thing I did was cleaned it up,replaced all the belts, replaced two bearings on the mower deck, had the seat reupholstered & made the lift on the back. I used this for about nine years as is until we relocated & sold the property. We had to move to the city to help take care of inlaws & I just stored it until now. I just jumped on the internet & found GTtalk & really got inspired to do something I never ever had time to do was to restore.

 

The only problem I had was the out put shaft on the Hydro tranny leaking. The previous owner told me he replaced the shaft seal & it worked for awhile then started leaking again. I took the tranny out & noticed the shaft was nicked in a few places where he took the seal out. I took it apart & slightly sanded & polished the shaft & put a new seal on it but again it still leaked. I'm thinking two possibilities, the shaft needs to be replaced or its not running true because of slop in the bearings. I have been told some play is OK I'm not sure on that or if so how much is OK. 

 

I will begin soon taking everything apart & starting my restore. I'm going crazy looking at all the beautiful machines on here but I know I have a lot of dirt, grease & sand ahead of me. This of coarse is a MF12 with a Hydrostatic tranny, I have a geared starter, SSI, & a fluid reservoir under the seat. My serial # plate is worn too much to read the numbers so I don't know what year...I'm thinking early 70's ???? My deck I believe is beyond repair because of so many rusted holes in the deck...I always had trouble with the lead roller wanting to bend down because of the amount of rust in that area.

 

My plan is dismantle everything, clean, remove rust, fill pitted areas, prime & paint original colors. Because of your info I have found replacement decals, the hood trim I need & the steering wheel center trim. I'm also thinking about an exhaust stack as well like the ones I have seen on here. Right now the only questions I have is your thoughts on the shaft. Has anyone replaced the serial # plates & is there a serial # else where I can find. What is the difference between the white & red SSI decal & the black & chrome decal on the engine shroud. 

 

 

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#2 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted June 01, 2013 - 12:07 PM

I started taking the body off. I felt like Chip Foose on Overhaulin....rusted hardware everywhere, body parts piled up & a lot of rust. I took a lot of photos for re assembly. My biggest concern is not keeping the hardware for later use but to keep them inventoried for a later purchase of all stainless steel. To update on my model number, I dug out my paper work from when I purchased from the PO & found my serial number. I remember writing this down just in case I needed it later DUH! My number is 5152472011 from the info I got from here that makes it a 1970 model. Everything actually went very well I only had 2 bolts I will have to easy out or do some grinding to get them out. Here are some pics of where I left off yesterday. Thanks again & your thoughts are welcomed.

 

 

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#3 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted June 01, 2013 - 12:08 PM

That is a good looking 12 to start with, nice original condition. I can't tell you the difference in the engine decals, but the TEC guys will be able to answer that for you.

 

I will be following along to watch your restore !! :thumbs:

 

Good Luck..


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#4 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted June 01, 2013 - 12:56 PM

Looks like you are off to a good start. Try to bag and label parts so you can find them later when you put it back together. It always looks straight forward when you take them apart but becomes a mystery when it's time to re assemble. Your tractor is overall in pretty good shape and you know most of the history which means no big surprises. Have fun with the restore and keep posting your progress here please! 


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#5 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted June 01, 2013 - 05:38 PM

I think you are right with the 70 tag, the stickers you are asking about we're the first solid state stickers.
Few years later and they had moved on to the other styles.
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#6 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted June 02, 2013 - 02:29 AM

Looks like a nice straight machine there. Tin looks real good. A good resto candidate.

Are you going to take it back to original?



#7 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted June 02, 2013 - 05:08 AM

Glad to see you jumping in with both feet! Good luck with getting it all gussied up! I'm sure you will get help when it's needed.


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#8 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted June 04, 2013 - 10:36 AM

IamSherwood my thoughts are a restore. The only two things I'm struggling with are the silver paint color & the original one round tail light on the rear. I will sand blast everything & fill in all rust pits to prevent the orange peal look on the red items. My thoughts on the frame etc.parts that are silver to use the Hammerite silver gray. I have used this paint on other projects with rust pits & it coats very well & gives a very hard finish. I'm going to post this thought later for some response. I have dual tail lights on now & I kinda like these verses the factory single round one.

 

I could only work a short time Saturday...I thought since my son was done with baseball this year I would have more time but I have 3 grandsons that are playing & I got to watch these little guys play. It was a struggle to get the dash box off  in fear of breaking it. I also got the steering wheel off as well....this I was worried about but it went well. I have some cracks in the SW so I popped a question over in the http://gardentractor...g-wheel-repair/ if you all want to give me some advice I would appreciate it. Check out my wiring...I think a monkey did it while eating a banana. Definitely a re wire job is in order. 

 

 

 

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#9 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2013 - 04:38 PM

Here is where I'm at now. I'm going to keep the rear end in place to keep the frame stable so I can take the dash tower apart. This should be exciting....a lot of parts in there.

 

ref32.jpg

 

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#10 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2013 - 05:17 PM

I had to repair the button on top of my implement handle because it was rusted to the handle. Once I got everything out it was a mess so I made a new one. This can be viewed over in http://gardentractor...-on-mf12-hydro/

Thanks

Jim


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#11 LYON222 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2013 - 07:57 PM

Original paint color should be flint metallic grey, wich is a darker shade than flint metallic silver
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#12 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted June 12, 2013 - 10:02 PM

I finally got down to the bare frame yesterday....sorry forgot to take a pic, will post one tomorrow. I would like to encourage anyone doing a restore to take every single part off that can be. I have several parts when separated only had primer from the factory on the back sides...never a finish coat. I was tempted a few times to leave a few parts attached. My plan is to prime each piece separate then install several pieces then prime again then do a finish coat.
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#13 IHCubGuy ONLINE  

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Posted June 12, 2013 - 10:18 PM

Looks like your coming right along there.  Wheels and grill should be Silver Mist,(grill screening black).  Frame, engine, transmission, and dash tower should be Flint Metallic Grey.  Dash surround, hood and feders MF red.  I used regular AGCO paint on my 12 and I am very pleased with the results.   I also added a vertical stack as you are thinking about doing.  Good luck with it and I will be following along on this one to see what you come up with.

 

Here are two pics of mine at our local plowday from this April.

 

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Edited by IHCubGuy, June 12, 2013 - 10:20 PM.

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#14 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted June 19, 2013 - 06:52 PM

Picked up a couple of much needed items last Friday on Craigslist in very good condition less than 3 years old for $375. Now once I get the compressor wired up & cabinet set up I will start some blasting! 

 

Kobalt 60 gallon 3.7 HP with cast iron pump. I know its not the best but for now & what I need it for I think I'll be ok with it. I might go for a 5HP motor later.

KobaltAirCompressor.jpg

 

This is a 40LB capacity cabinet by Central Pneumatics. The previous owner rebuilt old motorcycles with these two items & was moving.

blast cab.jpg

 

Keep looking I'll be back!



#15 TAHOE ONLINE  

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Posted June 20, 2013 - 08:47 AM

Great scores. Let me know when you get them all set up....and your address, I got some sandblasting to do too  :bigrofl:  :bigrofl:


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