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Re Wiring A Garden Tractor- Looking For Tips


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#1 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted May 23, 2013 - 06:43 AM

Looks like I am going to have to completely rewire my HD-12. Good news and bad........it is something I have wanted to do before to "clean up" previous owners mess on other GT's......this one is required.......

 

Any tips or suggestions would be appreciated......14g wire for most of the connections?? Being it is a bush hog and they used all red wire on their connections, I will do the same.

 

This is a Tecumseh HH120 from I think 1975- showing my lack of knowledge- my Wisconsin has a separate coil, I am assuming the sold state ignition takes care of this for me on this Tecumseh. Currently it does have spark so that is a good thing.

 

I have a new key switch and will be replacing the solenoid and the regulator. The solenoid Daniel has already confirmed the one I have will work, The regulator on it is not the correct one, how do I find out which one to buy to replace it with??

 

See pictures below to get an idea what I am working with.  Any suggestions, guidance will be appreciated.

 

IMG_3103.JPG IMG_3104.JPG IMG_3106.JPG


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#2 crittersf1 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 23, 2013 - 06:45 AM

Good luck with that one Scott.


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#3 LilysDad OFFLINE  

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Posted May 23, 2013 - 06:50 AM

I hope you have a wiring schematic. Don't trust that the PO did it right.


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#4 New.Canadian.DB.Owner OFFLINE  

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Posted May 23, 2013 - 06:56 AM

Tip: Ensure you have the correct ignition switch.  They are not all the same.


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#5 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted May 23, 2013 - 06:57 AM

Yes I am making no assumptions here, I will use the wiring diagram but is there a difference between how the Wisconsin was wired and the Tecumseh was wired?


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#6 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 23, 2013 - 06:58 AM

Since you plan to use one color wire, be sure to label the wires so you know which wire goes where. A schematic would be a great help.


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#7 boyscout862 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 23, 2013 - 06:59 AM

J.C. Whitney used to have the plastic flexible tube kits. They are a lot more handy for the bundled wires than wrapping with tape. I will be home in a week. If you don't have the wiring diagram for the engine I may be able to help. Before you start, try to do a diagram of the existing wiring. Sometimes an incorrect component was used and connected so that it would work. The correct component then won't work without restoring the wiring. Good Luck, Rick


Edited by boyscout862, May 23, 2013 - 07:00 AM.

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#8 LilysDad OFFLINE  

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Posted May 23, 2013 - 07:23 AM

Your going to need the schematic for the engine, maybe the correct ign. switch, too. The big difference in the ign. switch is whether it has a magneto, electronic ign. or points. The non engine wiring(headlights and such) won't matter.


Edited by LilysDad, May 23, 2013 - 07:25 AM.

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#9 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted May 23, 2013 - 09:13 AM

What in the world is those two bolts on the flywheel tin for?

 

I can't see the serial number so I can't date motor, but if it's a Tec used in an old Sears than it's probably not a 75, I think Sears switch to the overhead valve design motors i.e. OH120 in '73 and quite using the flatheads like you have and they started the Solid state ignition on the 12's around late 67 to early 68. looking at picture though and the decla, I doubt it's from a Sears, they used a different lable on their motors, but schematic below will still work for you.

You may have to pull flywheel and look at the stator to determine the amperage of charge coil, the 12 is most likely a 10 amp charging system. You can use a Kohler command 15 amp regulator on it with no problems. I was using one on my 20 amp OH160 Tecumseh until I added winch and burnt it up. There are used ones on ebay for them, but I have a problem spending that much money for used 35-40 yr old electrical parts when new ones can be adapted.

EDIT: After Going back and looking at your pics, the old square style regulator is probably correct for that motor, my 68 Sears SS12 with HH120 uses that style of regulator which is still available new, just have to search for them.

I totalled agree on correct switch. The Tecumseh SSI module is shut down by the switch grounded the charge ingition coil which sends juice to the module. Using the wrong switch, you can possibly send 12V through the charge coil to the module and burn it up....you don't want to think of having to buy a replacement.

 

Here is a couple pictures of a '68 Sears SS12 wiring and parts breakdown. sorry, it was in PDF and I couldn't copy pics other than a screen shot.

You can also go to http://www.searstractormanuals.com/  scroll down left and pick "sears" then under model pick a 68 SS12 manual or parts  and download the complete PDF to your computer.

 

SS12 electrical.jpg

SS12 electrical parts #.jpg


Edited by TAHOE, May 23, 2013 - 09:15 AM.

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#10 HDWildBill OFFLINE  

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Posted May 23, 2013 - 09:35 AM

The original wiring being all one color doesn't sound quite right to me, check the wiring diagram and make sure.  Red is usually a hot wire.  Like Rick said get some flexible wire conduit from Home depot or an auto part's it make as neater package and is easier to maintain.  Also something I do is all my wire connections and splices are soldered. Less chance of them coming loose or the wire pulling out. Good luck! :thumbs:


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#11 twostep OFFLINE  

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Posted May 23, 2013 - 09:47 AM

Tip: DON'T USE ONLY RED WIRE!!!! 

 

Even if BH did it, it's the dumbest thing I've ever heard of. Each circuit should be a different color unless they route to different areas of the tractor... Otherwise trouble shooting problems would be a nightmare. Sure you can label each wire but that would look just as bad plus if you have damage to a wire somewhere in the middle you would have to troubleshoot to figure out what wire is damaged.. Personally I like the visual confirmation of what circuits are.

 

14awg will be plenty big.


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#12 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted May 23, 2013 - 09:53 AM

THANKS I KNEW I WOULD GET SOME GOOD INFO. SERIAL NUMBER IS 5141E. Model Number is hh120-120173E

That is was is confusing me on the build date???  I was thinking the "5" meant the year.....that would either be 65 or 75......the two bolts was where he had the gas tank sitting on the top.....but the holes did not match up so he had to use washers about 1" out to make it fit....

 

IMG_3095.JPG


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#13 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted May 23, 2013 - 10:05 AM

Yes you are right  first # is year, next 3 numbers are day of year. I am only really familiar with the Sears motors, I think they started using the HH 12's in 67, I believe they switched to the OH motors in '73 I think so it could be either 65 or 75, my bet would be it's a 75 motor out of another brand other than sears.

The wiring I gave you is for a sears and not the BH, but since it's a similar motor and setup and you have to redo it all anyway to match the motor, maybe a good starting point for you.

14 ga will be fine on all other than battery connections.


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#14 crittersf1 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 23, 2013 - 08:00 PM

You would have to see the alt in person. What a rig!


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#15 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted May 23, 2013 - 08:33 PM

Yes I am making no assumptions here, I will use the wiring diagram but is there a difference between how the Wisconsin was wired and the Tecumseh was wired?

It is imperative that you get a switch that will "short to ground on shutdown" not "provide power on turn on"

On the sears with the teccy & CDI, the switch seems to be substituted by several switches, but 365401-R is one I bought.

I am Sure one of our site sponsors has them or access to them, they are also available several other places.
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