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Spline Grease


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#1 ducky OFFLINE  

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Posted October 31, 2010 - 09:22 AM

Happy Halloween everybody
Got a question.
What do you guys use for spline grease. I understand is is very high in moly content. Around 60%.
Right now my brother can get it through his hydraulic shop. Quit pricey though.
Has anybody found a cheaper high moly grease alternative.
I have found an 11 spline flex coupler that can be clamped to the spline to prevent movement thus no wear and still provide for misalignment caused by flex, caused by belt adjustment. I ordered a set to see if I can make some worn splines on tractors I have bought to make the drive shafts serviceable again.
I can not believe the lack of care on some of these tractors.:wallbanging::wallbanging::wallbanging:

#2 massey driver OFFLINE  

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Posted October 31, 2010 - 10:46 AM

I'll tell you what I've done.On my MF1655 the splined coupler to the trans was pretty badly worn out when I bought it and the joint was seized as well.I ended up buying a sleeve coupler and welded a new weasler yoke to it.I had to shorten the shaft to the motor as well and put a new yoke onto that shaft as well.Now because the splined shaft was worn a bit as well what I did was this. In the new yoke/coupler I drilled 3 holes evenly spaced around and tapped then to 1/4" I then put set screws into those places.The next thing was to gently [one] wrap the splined shaft with some saran wrap.I then took some JB weld and put it all around the shaft over the top of the saran wrap and ever so slowly slid the new coupler/yoke over top.I then tightened and adjusted each set screw so that the yoke sat as close as I could get to center as possible[so that there wouldn't be any wobble]. After about 12 hrs I pulled it off to make sure it wasn't sticking to the shaft.To my surpise it came of snug and didn't stick.I then left it to fully cure another 12 hrs.It's been working fine like this now for 9 yrs as the set screws are always tightened down and it probably helps keep the yoke from sliding back and forth.{don't need to use any grease} However I do have to mention that I also changed the belt tensioner as the old way was where it was mounted to the motors mounting plate and we all know its rubber mounted which makes the coupler slide back and forth on the splined shaft.So what I did was cut it off that plate and made a new mounting plate that's bolted to the side frame of the tractor.This way it doesn't move back and forth with the motor's plate.The belt's now do the flexing thus getting rid of any back and forth movement on the splined shaft.Guess thats why its still going today and hasn't come loose since setting it up like this. Larry

#3 ducky OFFLINE  

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Posted October 31, 2010 - 11:21 AM

Thx Larry that is a great idea. Did you use a # 6 pto joint?
I will try that on my snapper were the splines are completely gone.
That should sure take the loosness out of that joint. I will have to kept the spline on the engine end of the drive shaft to provide some movement. I don't think even bolting the engine solid would stop all movement.
Snapper sets the Kohler lower in the frame and drive the hydro straight off the crankshaft and belt up to the PTO. The PTO shaft tighten IS mounted to the frame.

#4 massey driver OFFLINE  

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Posted October 31, 2010 - 11:50 AM

Thx Larry that is a great idea. Did you use a # 6 pto joint?

yes it was a series 6 yoke/joint etc: Larry

Edited by olcowhand, October 31, 2010 - 12:02 PM.
repaired quote





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