Last winter I purchased a cat 0/cat 1 landscape rake with gage wheels. I could never get the rake to work well on my 2414, even with gage wheels attached. Actually worked better without the wheels. I finally realized that maybe the tounge was too low, top of the gage wheels were angled in about 20 degrees. I raised the 3-point arms as high as I could and made a top link from wood. Worked much better but not perfect. Tounge still a little low and my wooden top link was not adjustable. I bought a cat 1 top link and ground the ears off the swivel so it would fit the attach point on the tractor. I am looking at having riser blocks made to lower the cat 0 pins on the rake. Basic design:
3" X 5 1/2" X 3/8" flat bar
Holes for cat 1 and cat 0 pins 3" apart
Holes drilled 1 1/8" inch from leading edge of bar
Possible steel shelf welded on outside under existing steel lift point
The 3/8 thickness allows the cat 1 pin to go through the existing steel and the bar and still use all threads.
The 3" rise allows me to drop the tractor 3-point arms back to a neutral or slightly low position.
With the bar extending back to the rake frame, any rotation of the bar will be stopped when the top or bottom of the bar hits the frame. The bar may rotate when a load is put on the rake either pushing or pulling.
The shelf may reduce stress on the pins when lifting the rake. Also may help stop any rotation.
Any thoughts or suggestions to the design?