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May Be Heading Out On Another Bbrt Today...

bolens road trip

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#31 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2013 - 11:17 PM


Looks like a nice clean tractor that was properly stored and taken care of.


Aye, that she does, Captain!  It looks like it should be a good runner for quite some time. But I'll still probably want to do a full restoration on her eventually, once I get my other Bolens tractors squared away... :smilewink:
 

The Rear hood and PTO have adjustments that can be made. Take a look at where the rear hood hinge is and you will see what I'm talking about. The brackets can slide back farther allowing the hood to clear the PTO lever.


Thanks for that info, Doc! I'll definitely have to look into that to-morrow since that has really been bugging me since I've been messing around with this thing. You explained the adjustment on the hood though, but what adjustment is there on the PTO lever itself?

I wanted to head out today to finish mowing his yard with the EK-10, but it ended up raining today...  :(  So, I'll just have to do it to-morrow then instead! I'm contemplating swapping belts on this machine too since, as you can tell from the video, it has the Low speed range belts installed currently. I'd think I should be able to mow the yard faster if it was in High range. I also have to tighten up the throttle cable linkages somehow so that it will stay at the throttle it is set at. Right now it seems that the governor, instead of just regulating the RPM's, is pulling back on the throttle so it doesn't stay where I set it. Very annoying as it keeps trying to pull the throttle back to idle!  :mad2:

 

 



#32 OldBuzzard OFFLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2013 - 02:12 AM

I just finished putting a new belt on my EK7.  All I got with it was the low speed belt, and it was stretched.

 

Here's a hint to make changing that belt a bit easier.  Use a C- Clamp to hold the clutch/brake pedal down.  That makes it pretty easy to get the belt on the pulleys


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#33 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2013 - 08:16 AM

I wonder how Bolens expected you to change belts on it originally?  Does it even tell you how to do it in a service manual or anything or did they just tell you that you could change the belts but then left it up to you to figure out how you were supposed to accomplish that task?  Maybe you were supposed to use a friend, relative, wife, girlfriend, son, daughter, or other acquaintance to help you hold the clutch pedal down? 


Edited by MailmAn, May 16, 2013 - 08:17 AM.


#34 OldBuzzard OFFLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2013 - 01:29 PM

I just looked at the EK7 Owners Manual, and all they say is:

 

1. Depress clutch.

2. Remove belt 



#35 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2013 - 08:28 PM

ROFL...  That is pretty funny...  So, I guess they leave it up to you to figure out how to do both 1 & 2 at the same time...



#36 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2013 - 09:07 PM

Well, unfortunately it looks like my good fortune with the Estate Keeper was short lived and my trademark bad luck is back with a vengeance!  :( :( :(

 

It all started because stupid me had to try and swap on the Hi range belts and take the Lo range belts off of it.  I used Old Buzzard's tip of using a big C-clamp to hold the clutch pedal down while trying to change the belts in the back.  It seemed to work alright, but the belts I found in the boxes that were the Hi speed belts must have been a bit stretched out or something.  They seemed like new belts, but one was slightly longer than the other so they didn't both fit tight on the pulleys.  Also, it seems for some reason that this EK was missing the proper guide rod for the Hi range belts.  (The Lo range one is there, see pictures below...)  So, those two facts combined so that when I tried to start the tractor up to use it today, once I depressed the clutch pedal, the belts rode off of the pulleys and got tangled up.  So, I tried to depress the clutch again to release the belts so they wouldn't get all torn apart, but evidently the pressure on them was too great and, well, this happened...

 

EK-10_05162013_01.jpg

 

EK-10_05162013_02.jpg

 

EK-10_05162013_03.jpg

 

EK-10_05162013_04.jpg

 

EK-10_05162013_05.jpg

 

 

So, from what I can see from the damage to the clutch rod there, I'd say it was probably broken there before and was poorly re-welded back together to try to fix it.  Not sure why it would have broken there in the first place, but it doesn't seem like factory welds there to me.  So, the questions now are:

 

1) Should I attempt to weld it back together again to try and quick-fix it, or should I attempt the, I'm assuming, long and difficult task of replacing that clutch rod that runs all the way through the transaxle case to the back to actuate the clutch idler pulleys?  I'd assume replacing the whole rod with one from one of the parts tractors would provide a more permanent fix that would last longer than trying to re-weld it again.  Plus, my welding leaves much to be desired...

 

2) How difficult is it to get that clutch rod out of there to replace it?  I'd assume there are roll pins in the shaft to hold the arms on for the clutch and the PTO idler pulleys?  Has anyone else attempted to replace these before?

 

3) Am I missing something to keep tension on the Hi range belts and that is why they fell off so quickly?  I notice it seems to be missing a rod that sticks out underneath the gas tank.  I have two of those rods on my other EK-10 and this one only seems to have one.  Also, the belts were twisted around in a figure-8 pattern when they were in storage, so could that also be a cause for why the belts flew off of the pulleys so quickly?

 

4) Does anyone know if that clutch rod is the same on the EK-7 as it is on the EK-10 or is it longer on the EK-10 since that uses the double belts for everything whereas the EK-7 uses single belts?  If I could, I'd like to pull this part off of the EK-7 for use on my EK-10 if I can so I'm not pillaging too many parts from my other "parts" EK-10, in case I want to attempt to fix that one up and get it running too at some point.  The fewer parts I end up pulling off that one to get my other EK's running the better, even though I know I will need to scavenge some parts off of it to finish the EK-10 that is in pieces right now...

 

 

Thanks in advance for your help in getting this figured out ASAP!


Edited by MailmAn, May 16, 2013 - 09:09 PM.


#37 OldBuzzard OFFLINE  

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Posted May 17, 2013 - 07:18 AM

I looked at the parts manuals for the 930 and 931, and that part has the same part# on both tractors :thumbs:

 

Doesn't look like it would be that hard, since the piece that goes from it to the rear of the tractor is wire rope.

 

It's held on to the pedal by a roll pin.

 

As for the belts, I looked in the manuals section and couldn't find an Owners Manual for the EK10.  However I'm betting that it's similar to the EK7, and where it talks about changing the belt, it has a good illustration of how they are routed.  There are two rods there for belt guides.  The top one is for the low speed belt and the bottom for the high speed belt.


Edited by OldBuzzard, May 17, 2013 - 07:47 AM.

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#38 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted May 17, 2013 - 07:38 AM

Thanks, OB!!!  I don't have the EK-7 manual handy and didn't feel like searching for it to download it.  Good to know that rod part is the same on both tractors!  So, maybe that EK-7 can be useful for something after all...  Assuming of course if that part isn't solid rust as well and won't come off of it... 

 

I don't suppose it says anywhere how that rod is supposed to come out?  I'd assume after you get all of the roll pins out of the rod that it should just slide forward, right?  I was worried too about figuring out how to get that gigantic clutch return spring out of there, but maybe I don't have to worry about that to get the rod out?  I'd like to anyways for safety reasons just in case, but it looks like the clutch arm assembly is hitting against the rear bracket that the battery is in and the hood mounts to, so I'd think there is no torsional pressure on that rod right now with the belts off of it, so maybe I can just bang the roll pins out and pull the rod out through the front?

 

Any ideas on how to get that spring off safely?  It looks like a monster and I don't want it taking an eye out or an arm off with it...



#39 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted May 17, 2013 - 07:45 AM

BTW - OldBuzzard, just for the heck of it to be sure we're talking about the same part, does it show in the EK-7 manual the part listed as an "Idler Arm", part number 1719239?  That is what it shows in my EK-10 manual at least for reference number 189, which appears to be pointing to the rod in question that is broken on mine...

 

It looks like it should just slide out and in without having to take apart anything related to the PTO engagement shaft.  Also, at least on the EK-10, there is no wire connected to it in the back to actuate the clutch idler pulleys.  They are all solid linkages in the back to move the clutch pulleys.  The only cable is from the clutch pedal up front to that rod arm to actuate the clutch.  It runs through that set of double pulleys where the frame articulates in the middle.


Edited by MailmAn, May 17, 2013 - 07:49 AM.


#40 OldBuzzard OFFLINE  

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Posted May 17, 2013 - 08:00 AM

OOPS....I was looking at the other end at the clutch pedal :(  :(

 

I just looked at that part, and it's not the same part number.  It has the same reference number (189), but the EK7 part number is 1715 512


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#41 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted May 17, 2013 - 08:07 AM

I was wondering about that after I re-read your post a few times since you said that, "the piece that goes from it to the rear of the tractor is wire rope."  That's why I wanted to be sure we were talking about the same thing.  That does suck though the part I need is specific to the EK-10...  I wanted to pull the part off of the EK-7 if possible so I didn't wreck up my EK-10's...  :(   So much for that idea then...

 

I wonder what is different enough about them?  Is the EK-10 one just longer as I alluded to earlier?  IDK if I feel like taking the extra time to pull two of them, but I might compare the differences between this part from the EK-7 and the EK-10 just for the hell of it.  Maybe Bolens gave them different part numbers because they are on different tractors but they could be very similar?  Maybe just a roll pin hole is slightly off or something stupid and I could drill a new hole for it...


Edited by MailmAn, May 17, 2013 - 08:09 AM.


#42 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 17, 2013 - 08:19 AM

Yeah, that piece has definitely been welded. It wouldn't be too hard to grind out that old weld and fix it up the right way but if your not comfortable with welding it I would pull the other one off your parts EK10.

 

 

With the belts off and the idler pulleys in their "Relaxed" Position I would not worry about the spring. If you still want to play it safe just remove it with a pair of vice grips or needle nose pliers.

 

As for the belts, being stored the way you described it may take a few minutes of running to get them "Broken in"

There is also a good chance these belts were used previously and could be worn.....

 

 

Hard to tell from the angle of the pics but it does appear you are missing either the high Range or low range belt guide which may be the reason the belts are falling off.


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#43 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted May 17, 2013 - 08:36 AM

Well, Doc...  Welding it would definitely be the much faster fix IMO than trying to tear apart the parts EK-10 to pull out that clutch rod.  But I also already mowed his lawn with my "new" (latest) push mower rather than waiting to try and fix the EK-10.  It took a lot longer to mow with a push mower, but I also just wanted to get it done since it was getting pretty long and I didn't know how long it would take to try and fix the tractor.  So, hopefully I should be good for another week at least before I have to mow it again.  If I do get the EK working and I can drive it up the ramps into my truck, I could try it out on my lawn here once I get it fixed.  I'm just worried that welding it instead of replacing it with a good rod won't last as long, but you never know...  It does look pretty weak there though and it broke off pretty easily I'd say.  I didn't think I applied all that much pressure to it in order to break it.  I'd say I pushed the clutch down with about the same force needed to just normally disengage the belts but then when I let off of the pedal, it didn't return.  :( :wallbanging:

 

 

 

Oh, and BTW - this was my other latest acquisition.  When the guy with the EK's for sale down in PA postponed for a day and moved our meeting to Saturday, I called up a guy with an ad on the local Craigslist and met up with him on Friday and bought this for $160.  I'd say I didn't do too badly, although I paid a bit more than I wanted to for it, but he was pretty firm in his asking price.

 

LawnBoy_01.jpg      LawnBoy_02.jpg      LawnBoy_03.jpg

 

It has a 6.5HP Tecumseh engine on it that runs great and it is rear wheel self-propelled (belt drive though, not the gear drive off of the crankshaft like the old 2-cycle self-propelled Lawn Boys were).  It only has the mulching plug in it right now, so it won't discharge.  The guy didn't have any other plugs for it so it would either discharge or bag, which is kind of disappointing especially for what I paid for it.  It has a good blade on it though and it did a great job mowing, even if it took forever...


Edited by MailmAn, May 17, 2013 - 08:52 AM.






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