Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Mechanical Sos. Drive Sheave Trouble


  • Please log in to reply
8 replies to this topic

#1 Gfann OFFLINE  

Gfann
  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 10613
  • 193 Thanks
  • 226 posts
  • Location: Rock Creek, Ohio

Posted May 07, 2013 - 03:12 PM

Ive got a K91 engine off a Jacobsen Chief 800, at least I think its an 800. I'm pretty sure sense the K91 is 8 HP. In anycase, I'm trying to get the drive sheave off this thing and it is not wanting to let go. I have removed the set screws from the sheave and this sucker wont budge. I have managed to get out about 1/8th of an inch by routing it and tapping it. I'm affroaid to hit to hard I dont want to damage the sheave. I sprayed WD40 is the set screw holes and on the exposed drive shaft. It has literally taken me two or so hours just to get to this bpoint. I tried a gear puller but it really wasnt doing anything. I deided to let it set over night and see if the WD40 thats onit will loosen it some more.

So anyway, anyone have a trick or magic wand I can use. To get this sucka off?

Attached Thumbnails

  • image.jpg
  • image.jpg


#2 suburban 12 OFFLINE  

suburban 12
  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 29382
  • 396 Thanks
  • 325 posts
  • Location: South of Pittsburgh PA

Posted May 07, 2013 - 03:17 PM

Your engine is most likely a K181 since you say its 8hp. A K91 is a 4hp engine. Also you will want a better penetrating oil like PB Blaster or Kroil, Wd40 is about useless trying to  free rusted parts. A three jaw puller may work too if the pulley has a good thick spot for the puller to hold on to.


  • hamman and Gfann have said thanks

#3 Chopperhed OFFLINE  

Chopperhed
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 20120
  • 1,852 Thanks
  • 1,071 posts
  • Location: Edmonton, Ab, Canada

Posted May 07, 2013 - 05:40 PM

Your engine is most likely a K181 since you say its 8hp. A K91 is a 4hp engine. Also you will want a better penetrating oil like PB Blaster or Kroil, Wd40 is about useless trying to  free rusted parts. A three jaw puller may work too if the pulley has a good thick spot for the puller to hold on to.

 A little heat from a propane torch on the pulley, while avoiding the shaft, would help too


  • Gfann said thank you

#4 Rock farmer ONLINE  

Rock farmer
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 10759
  • 1,119 Thanks
  • 1,177 posts
  • Location: York Maine

Posted May 07, 2013 - 06:32 PM

If you we're able to move it out 1/8". Then what's stopping you is at that point. I would push it back in that 1/8". Then, rub down the shaft with Emory cloth or fine sand paper. Wire brush it. Or, file it to make it a little bit smaller. There may be a burr on the pulley's hub. I'd use a magnifieng glass to see what's there! Keep working it back and forth. You may have rust or grit in the hub. Keep spraying it as you work it back and forth.

I know it seems counter intuitive to push it back on when your trying to get it off! But, that what works for me.

Joe
  • Gfann said thank you

#5 HDWildBill OFFLINE  

HDWildBill

    Freedom is not Free. Thank those in uniform for your freedom.

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 6354
  • 8,702 Thanks
  • 8,557 posts
  • Location: Ga

Posted May 07, 2013 - 07:49 PM

I was thinking some heat as well.  Heat it up and use a 3 point puller.  Also like Rock farmer suggested you may want to move it back and forth and that may loosen it as well.


  • Gfann said thank you

#6 Gfann OFFLINE  

Gfann
  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 10613
  • 193 Thanks
  • 226 posts
  • Location: Rock Creek, Ohio

Posted May 07, 2013 - 09:23 PM

Well I went and got some BPBlaster, sounded like a good way to go. I sprayed it in the set screw holes and let it soak over night. I'll probably try the back and forth technique tomorrow during round two. I guess I'll take the tricks sense I guess noone has a magic wand. [Sigh]

#7 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

skyrydr2

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 5032
  • 3,409 Thanks
  • 3,159 posts
  • Location: Gardner, Massachusetts!

Posted May 08, 2013 - 06:46 AM

A bearing splitter type puller will remove it with a far less possibility of damage.
  • Gfann said thank you

#8 sacsr OFFLINE  

sacsr

    Bush Hog Addict

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 4776
  • 3,268 Thanks
  • 3,283 posts
  • Location: Eastern NC

Posted May 08, 2013 - 07:03 AM

I know nothing about this motor etc.....that being said....on the bush hog front pto.....they put 2 set screws in to hold it on the shaft......the first kept the second from backing out....a lot of pto clutches were damaged due to only the one set screw being taken out then the owner would pull it off with force thinking it was stuck..........probably not the case with yours.....but just in case, thought I would mention this.

 

Good luck!!


  • Gfann said thank you

#9 Gfann OFFLINE  

Gfann
  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 10613
  • 193 Thanks
  • 226 posts
  • Location: Rock Creek, Ohio

Posted May 08, 2013 - 07:20 AM

I know nothing about this motor etc.....that being said....on the bush hog front pto.....they put 2 set screws in to hold it on the shaft......the first kept the second from backing out....a lot of pto clutches were damaged due to only the one set screw being taken out then the owner would pull it off with force thinking it was stuck..........probably not the case with yours.....but just in case, thought I would mention this.
 
Good luck!!



It had two set screws. They actually came out very easily just like they normally do in old engine, just took a liitle pressure then, Click! And out they came. I thought maybe that was a good sign for the sheave, Buuuuut- No.
  • sacsr said thank you




Top