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Front Wheel Weights


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#1 BowlBuilder OFFLINE  

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Posted May 05, 2013 - 08:31 AM

I have always wanted a set of front wheel weights for my 448 but they always seemed so expensive given the dollar per pound price.  I recently discovered that I have some 4 Kg free weights (8.8 lbs.) which fit perfectly inside of my front rims.  My plan is to bore the center out of one or two per side to clear the center spindle parts then weld 4 or 5 together and drill two holes in them.  I measured them and four of them would only stick out past the rim 1-1/2".  Unfortunately I will have to scan the sports recycling shops (or whatever they're called) and hunt up 4-6 more as I only have 4 right now.  Does anyone know if this would be too much weight on the front rims?  Thank you.


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#2 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 05, 2013 - 08:37 AM

Welcome! Sounds interesting. Got some pics?


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#3 BowlBuilder OFFLINE  

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Posted May 05, 2013 - 08:38 AM

Nope, just discovered they would fit last night.


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#4 KC9KAS OFFLINE  

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Posted May 05, 2013 - 08:52 AM

These types of weights can be found at flea markets, yard-sales, and often times "thrift" type shops.

 

A couple of weeks ago, I realized that the vibration dampener/balance gear on the front of diesel engines is very heavy, and close to the diameter of our GT wheels.

I am keeping an eye on the "scrap" trailer so I can maybe find a "matching" set. Probably take some cutting & grinding, but they will be cheaper.


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#5 machinist OFFLINE  

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Posted May 05, 2013 - 12:12 PM

I used some free weights on a front bracket, and had to bore the hole larger. I have been doing machining for over 40 years, and that was the NASTIEST cast iron I have ever touched! They must have thrown every sort of low grade scrap into the mix. It was worse than working on old cast sewer pipe. I resharpened the carbide boring bar several times before I finished boring an 1/8" out of 4 weights. So, be advised, it ain't real easy--possible, but not easy. You might find something that works without machining, and that would be a big plus!

No problem at all modifying old engine parts, or other high quality cast iron. Actually, cast iron sells at a higher price than steel at the junkyard, IIRC, so finding some suitable steel would be desirable IMHO. I had some suitcase weights flame cut from old steel plate, no problem. It was easy to weld on handles, too. (Used 1/2" diameter rod bent into a rectangular U shape and butt welded on the weights.)

Edited by machinist, May 05, 2013 - 12:19 PM.

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#6 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted May 05, 2013 - 12:44 PM

I wonder if you could use a hole saw on a drill press to open them up?



#7 BowlBuilder OFFLINE  

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Posted May 05, 2013 - 07:51 PM

I may try the hole saw idea, thanks.  If not, I'm thinking possibly a carbide burr on a die grinder if need be.


Edited by BowlBuilder, May 05, 2013 - 07:52 PM.


#8 BowlBuilder OFFLINE  

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Posted May 05, 2013 - 07:59 PM

Just a thought, but I may look for some olympic style weights for the first two or so as they have a larger opening.  If I can't find something the perfect size, I could go a little smaller and it would not be visible.



#9 machinist OFFLINE  

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Posted May 05, 2013 - 09:45 PM

I wouldn't recommend the hole saw, because at best they are HSS and will die young when you hit some of the hard inclusions I found in my (admittedly Chinese) weights.   I would expect the carbide burr to go along fine until you hit  a hard spot and then you get sparks.    End of the burr.    I would avoid this at all costs.  The only way I had any luck was running a very low speed in the lathe and comparatively fast feed with the boring bar.  That reduces the footage the tool has to travel in the material and tends to chisel out the hard particles instead of having to bulldoze through them. 

 

It reminded me of trying to cut an asphalt road--rocks held together by cold hard asphalt.  Destroys anything you throw at it. Whatever you do, keep the speed of your tool very SLOW.   Heat is the enemy of tool life, and speed produces heat.

 

If I had to do it again, I would cook the old free weights all winter inside the wood stove to anneal them first as best I could.  That would get rid of the martensite (hard iron carbide particles), but the silica inclusions would still be there.  I think they made that stuff out of old cast iron bathtubs and left the porcelain coating in the mix.  :mad2:


Edited by machinist, May 05, 2013 - 09:48 PM.

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