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And The Repower Has Begun! (Ss12)


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#1 dmorrill22 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 01, 2013 - 08:32 PM

Arrived home today for the summer. Immediately set to work opening the clone engine. Now for the bad news:

The gas tank had a few dents on it in various places, as did a bit of the shroud. I tried pulling the recoil, but the shroud was dented enough that the recoil wasn't quite lined up, and the shroud was pressing on the flywheel fins.

I don't feel like shipping the engine back for a replacement. If the engine itself is fine, I will just fix the shroud and remove the gas tank (I wasn't going to use it anyway). But I tried turning the engine over by hand, and it works well for several revolutions, and then gets difficult to turn over. Not sure if this is the normal compression portion of the starting process, or if something is wrong. Are these hard to start with the recoil starters?

 


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#2 HowardsMF155 ONLINE  

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Posted May 01, 2013 - 09:07 PM

I've got one of those clones from Harbor freight.  I know there is a compression release, so unless you are rotating backward, I wouldn't think anything would be offering much resistance.  Pull starting is impossible if you forget to turn the key switch on (You KNOW how I know, don't you?)  Beyond that factor, pull starting seems to be more inertia, getting the whole mass spinning over as I recall.



#3 dmorrill22 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 02, 2013 - 10:00 PM

Spent the majority of today working on the tractor. Had to take the engine tin work off and the recoil starter apart and hammer both into shape again. Shipping was not good to the engine, or loading it damaged it. The bottom of the recoil starter was dented in, preventing the spool from turning.

Got everything hammered out, put the tins back on, and gave it a couple pulls. Turns over fine.

The engine is a tight fit in the tractor, but it should work fine. Here is a sneak peak at where I'm at:

 

130502_002_zps79faf906.jpg


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#4 baerpath OFFLINE  

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Posted May 05, 2013 - 06:21 AM

Gonna put this out there, when you get a engine damaged by shipping always contact the carrier. We had a diesel come in damaged, called UPS and they asked for a picture and then had the driver come back and pick it up and delivered a undamaged one.
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#5 dmorrill22 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 05, 2013 - 09:39 AM

Gonna put this out there, when you get a engine damaged by shipping always contact the carrier. We had a diesel come in damaged, called UPS and they asked for a picture and then had the driver come back and pick it up and delivered a undamaged one.

 

I struggled with this one for a bit.  But I decided that the engine itself was probably fine, and I really needed to get this project started.  Delays would set me back too far.  I may replace the tinwork at some point in the future, but it seems to be fine for now.  But thank you for the advice!



#6 dmorrill22 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 06, 2013 - 10:18 PM

Finally was able to get back at this project, hopefully will be up and running within the next few days.

Got the holes drilled for the engine, almost ran out of frame to drill them in, but it worked out:

130506_006_zps1dc2668a.jpg

Here is a bigger view of the engine in place:

130506_001_zps468e992c.jpg

And the side.  Note the clearancing needed on the battery tray in order to clear the engine tabs:

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A close up of the clearanced tray:

130506_008_zpscdec3212.jpg

As others have said, the Tecumseh pulley guard for the drive belt bolts up to the clone engines.  I had to shim the guard with two 3/8" nuts on each bolt:

130506_005_zps65bfd1f9.jpg

And lastly, the clutch.  I cut the pivot post off the engine bracket from the Tecumseh.  I will weld this pivot piece to a small length of 1/4" flat stock, and then position it on the battery tray.  After finding the position needed, I'll weld the flat stock to the tray.  Here is the pivot ready for welding:

130506_004_zpsffc762fa.jpg

And finally, the clutch bracket itself.  I had to cut off the stop, to allow the clutch to work properly with the arm suspended from the battery tray.  I will go into further details with the clutch setup later as I progress.

130506_003_zps44042d5d.jpg


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#7 robert_p43 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2013 - 11:31 AM

That clutch thing is the hardest part of a sears repower it seems, but not sure as I have never done one.  I like those front tires.  Keep us posted on your progress.

Thank you for shearing this project.


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#8 dmorrill22 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2013 - 04:53 PM

Began work on the wiring today, as I will essentially start from scratch.  Planning on keeping the key switch I had (bought from Tractor Supply) and using the relay setup to kill the engine as it did before.  Also made a junction block with wood to take up the extra space on the battery tray.  Should make adding things much easier, rather than going behind the dash.  Here is the start of it:

130507_003_zpsc32ec001.jpg

A shot of the engine bay as it sits now:

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And a couple of shots with the hood and grille on:

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130507_005_zps2b37fd2c.jpg



#9 UncleWillie OFFLINE  

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Posted May 07, 2013 - 05:28 PM

Great work. Cant wait to see it finished.
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#10 dmorrill22 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2013 - 07:28 PM

Got a bit done today.  Half of the wiring is done, just need to wire in accessories like lights, alternator, etc.  Ran the engine for the first time today, started up easily and ran very smooth.  I also adapted the tractor supply key switch to the engine, so that I can still have the accessories switched on with the key.  Also began mounting the alternator, it fits well.  I'll take some more detailed pictures tomorrow, but here is a shot of the progress:

130509_001_zpsd07f6515.jpg


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#11 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2013 - 10:10 PM

Got a chance to look back & follow the build.

Fantastic build, glad it's going well.
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#12 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2013 - 10:19 PM

If that is the three wire GM alternator I have on wired to the craftsman caterpillar. Here is a useful link to wiring that thing up. You do not regret the big alternator like that, believe me, I use a winch lift on my sleeve hitch.

Www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=176389

Edited by wvbuzzmaster, May 09, 2013 - 10:20 PM.

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#13 chris m OFFLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2013 - 10:22 PM

That is coming along great!! It looks like it was all meant to be in there! :thumbs:


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#14 dmorrill22 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2013 - 10:27 PM

If that is the three wire GM alternator I have on wired to the craftsman caterpillar. Here is a useful link to wiring that thing up. You do not regret the big alternator like that, believe me, I use a winch lift on my sleeve hitch.

Www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=176389

Thanks for the link!  I already had the wiring sorted out from when I had the Tecumseh, but that link you posted is an excellent resource.  Definitely need the alternator for the winch in the wintertime!


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#15 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2013 - 10:40 PM

No prob, I tell you, best think I ever did was add a alternator and winch. I just got another craftsman to mess with and if I Get it running it too will get an alternator, not so much cause it is needed, but because I want it lol.




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