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110 Transaxle Leak After Fluid Change. Need Help


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#1 koko381 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 01, 2013 - 02:02 AM

After changing the transaxle fluid in my 1964 110, I now have a leak. There was some evidence of a very slow leak prior to the fluid change, but now a puddle is left on the ground after a few hours. The leak is coming from the brake shaft needle bearing. I assume the oil seal needs to be replaced. Is there a way to fix this, without having to take the transaxle out of the tractor? The service manual shows to remove the transaxle for all repairs and I would prefer to avoid having to do that.

#2 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted May 01, 2013 - 10:52 AM

I'm not familiar with 110's so can't really advise you on if it needs to be pulled off the tractor. If it is difficult to get at then it's usually easier in the long run to remove it than to struggle with it on the tractor.



#3 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted May 01, 2013 - 10:56 AM

If there is room to get the brake pulley off, and the pulley will even loosen to do so, then it can be done in frame.  With pulley off, one can pry the seal out with a small screwdriver or similar tool.  Getting the seal driven in squarely may be difficult, but is possible.  Again, all depends on room for pulley removal.



#4 jrk OFFLINE  

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Posted May 01, 2013 - 01:00 PM

Daniel is right - this can be done on the tractor.

1. Loosen and remove pulley
2. Clean the shaft with emery cloth and wipe down with brake cleaner
a. An input that is dirty or contains rust scale can ruin an oil seal
3. Use a drywall screw (or 2) and just start it into the seal close to the shaft
4. Use a pair of pliers and pull on the head of the screws to remove old seal
5. Clean and oil shaft lightly
6. Apply grease or petroleum jelly to the ID and OD of the seal
7. Seat the lip of the seal by hand making sure its square all the way around
8. Use a clean piece of PVC longer than the shaft to drive the seal in
a. Make sure the seal remains square to the hole
9. Drive the seal in until it is just below the surface (1/16")

Here is a similar process with pics I wrote for replacing a crankshaft seal:

http://gardentractor...ankshaft-seals/

Hope that helps! JRK

Edited by jrk, May 01, 2013 - 08:27 PM.

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#5 koko381 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 02, 2013 - 09:14 AM

Well done, Jrk. Thank you very much. You saved me a great deal of time, by not removing the entire transaxle.

#6 rainman_210 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 03, 2013 - 10:40 PM

reading this reminds me that on my 112rf the 3 bolts that secure the shifter to the transaxle are loose...i took the plastic shift selector off and no matter what tool i used was only able to get one of them tight again...wouldnt bother me to much except i have fuid leaking out of that spot.....im almost positive after busting some knuckles that the transaxle needs to be removed to properly gain access to those screws!.....wish i could get access by removing a pullley but im afraid i will have no such luck unless some of the jd wizzards found on this site tell me different.....for the immediate future i will resort to procrastination however the grass needing trimming soon and id like to put some enjoyable hrs on her while she is still in her work clothes...glad to hear about your success with your seal koko



#7 koko381 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2013 - 03:48 PM

After finally getting the gear oil in the mail, I put everything back together and I have a question on the brake pulley. Before removing the pulley, there was some lateral play(1/4") on the shaft between the brake and input shaft pulleys. I was wondering if that was how I should put it back together? This is determined by where the brake pulley is, when the pulley bolt is tightened onto the shaft. If I put pressure on the input shaft towards the transaxle and install the brake pulley as far in as it will go, the lateral play can be elimiinated. My question is whether or not there should be allowed any lateral movement on this shaft? Thank you.

#8 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2013 - 03:54 PM

After finally getting the gear oil in the mail, I put everything back together and I have a question on the brake pulley. Before removing the pulley, there was some lateral play(1/4") on the shaft between the brake and input shaft pulleys. I was wondering if that was how I should put it back together? This is determined by where the brake pulley is, when the pulley bolt is tightened onto the shaft. If I put pressure on the input shaft towards the transaxle and install the brake pulley as far in as it will go, the lateral play can be elimiinated. My question is whether or not there should be allowed any lateral movement on this shaft? Thank you.

 

You don't want either side hub to rub the casing, so I'd think you'd need to leave enough play so that neither hubs contact the trans case.


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#9 johndeereelfman OFFLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2013 - 09:04 PM

rainman_210,

 

You can tighten the shifter bolts without removing the transmission completely. Here is what to do:

 

Remove your seat and seat spring.

Remove the plastic shifter quadrant.

Remove both the left and right fenders, but reinstall the rear bolts on both sides, just hand tight. These rear bolts hold the fender, the frame, and the hitch plate together.

Place the shifter in 2nd gear.

 

Your transmission should now pivot enough for you to lower the front of the transmission down far enough to get an allen wrench onto all three bolts to tighten them. When you have them all tight, repeat all of the steps above in reverse order, and you should be good to go.

 

I am a little concerned though. You should not be getting gear oil through the shifter. If this is really happening, then your transmission is filled entirely too full. At this level, you will eventually, if not already, start getting gear oil pushing out your axle seals, just behind your rear hubs. I would drain the fluid completely, by loosening the lower drain plug on the transmission, and refilling to the proper level. Simply reinstall the lower drain plug, remove the upper fill plug, and start filling with gear oil until you start getting gear oil running out the upper fill hole. I like to put a standard sized brick under each front tire, as raising the front of tractor a little, will give you just a little extra gear oil in there, but not enough to do any damage. You can fill the transmission while still attached to the tractor frame, by getting a turkey baster from your local grocery store. It takes some time to fill, but it saves time from removing the transmission from the tractor.



#10 johndeereelfman OFFLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2013 - 09:10 PM

You don't want either side hub to rub the casing, so I'd think you'd need to leave enough play so that neither hubs contact the trans case.

 

You're exactly right Daniel. A little play is good, but you don't want the hub rubbing the transmission case or the brake band bracket. A little play is normal, but a 1/4" play is too much.






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