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My First Mf

mf 14

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90 replies to this topic

#16 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2013 - 05:11 AM

Nice find there. Those are good machines. For a coil, just get one from auto supply store.

Get one with built in resistor.


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#17 hatedge OFFLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2013 - 07:32 AM

Nice find there. Those are good machines. For a coil, just get one from auto supply store.

Get one with built in resistor.

Thats all? I walk in the autopart and ask for a coil with resistor? No other info needed? Those things are all standard?



#18 esbbent OFFLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2013 - 08:18 AM

Here are a couple of part #'s to help you out, NAPA IC14 or AC Delco C573. On my 14 I rebuilt last year I found out the coil was bad on it, I put on a Accel 8140  coil that was sittiing in parts box. 


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#19 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted May 09, 2013 - 04:58 PM

1st thing I would do is Clean and regap the points to .020.

 

If still no spark replace the Condensor.

 

If still no spark Check to see if there is 12V getting to the Coil.Check for a bad wire if Wiring is good Replace the Key switch.

 

If still no spark Replace the Coil.

 

Check all of the Commonly faulty and cheap $4-$15 small parts before you go get another $30-$40 Resistor Coil.


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#20 hatedge OFFLINE  

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Posted May 10, 2013 - 06:52 AM

1st thing I would do is Clean and regap the points to .020.

 

If still no spark replace the Condensor.

 

If still no spark Check to see if there is 12V getting to the Coil.Check for a bad wire if Wiring is good Replace the Key switch.

 

If still no spark Replace the Coil.

 

Check all of the Commonly faulty and cheap $4-$15 small parts before you go get another $30-$40 Resistor Coil.

Sounds like a smart procedure to follow. Thank you. I will be doing just that.



#21 hatedge OFFLINE  

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Posted May 10, 2013 - 04:41 PM

spent the whole day trying to get some sparks outta the mf 14. I cannot put my finger on the problem. I would like to find the owner manual to learn the proper starting procedure. My not knowing the procedure might be the problem because both coil and condenser have tested good on another tractor today. The engine turns but no sparks :(



#22 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted May 10, 2013 - 05:36 PM

Did you try putting a jumper wire from 12volts+ to the coil?

Amp-meter on my MF16 is open circuit and causes no battery voltage to the coil.


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#23 hatedge OFFLINE  

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Posted May 11, 2013 - 06:32 AM

Did you try putting a jumper wire from 12volts+ to the coil?

Amp-meter on my MF16 is open circuit and causes no battery voltage to the coil.

Do you mean to put a jumper between the battery + and the + side of coil? I havent tried this yet, it would show me if I have a short on the wiring harness or a bad stator right?

 

Is there a way to test the stator? I tried hooking a multimeter to the wires that come out of engine and cranking the engine and I got very low readings.



#24 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted May 11, 2013 - 06:42 AM

The operators manual is in the manuals section.

 

I can't recal now if there where any safety switches on the 14. (seat, hydro lever)

 

The PTO switch must be in off position.


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#25 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted May 11, 2013 - 08:11 AM

Do you mean to put a jumper between the battery + and the + side of coil? I havent tried this yet, it would show me if I have a short on the wiring harness or a bad stator right?

It would let you know if you have a wiring problem, like a bad switch, safety switch, broken connection, etc. Shorts normally announce themselves with smoke in my past experience.

I don't think this would be a viable test for the stator. Unless it's electronic spark, the stator is just for charging (from what I understand)

 

Is there a way to test the stator? I tried hooking a multimeter to the wires that come out of engine and cranking the engine and I got very low readings.


I assume DC and AC volts were your test points, not ohms. If so, yes. The readings will be erratic and low until you get the engine up to speed.
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#26 hatedge OFFLINE  

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Posted May 11, 2013 - 05:12 PM

It would let you know if you have a wiring problem, like a bad switch, safety switch, broken connection, etc. Shorts normally announce themselves with smoke in my past experience.

I don't think this would be a viable test for the stator. Unless it's electronic spark, the stator is just for charging (from what I understand)

 
I assume DC and AC volts were your test points, not ohms. If so, yes. The readings will be erratic and low until you get the engine up to speed.

I actually have the same problem on my JD112 and today I did a test for dc off the stator wires with the same result. And for the no spark problem ive gone and hooked the coil directly to the battery and the engine fired up! :) So im more and more convinced that the ignition switch is the problem. I have a indiak 5 prong on there and theres no ing prong on it. So, nowhere to hook the coil wire to  the switch. Tomorow is sunday and ill wait for monday to get another switch. That would probably cure the no spark problem. But one question remains: where will I hook the lights on a 3 prong switch and shouldnt the electric lift be hooked to the switch?

 

As for the MF 14 I will also be running the same tests and jumper wire test on it. Ill be back with the news


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#27 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted May 11, 2013 - 10:01 PM

Once it's running, then check the stator.  I think you should be checking for AC on two of the wires also.



#28 hatedge OFFLINE  

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Posted May 12, 2013 - 08:13 PM

Once it's running, then check the stator. I think you should be checking for AC on two of the wires also.

OK heres the rundown. I beleive the switch on the JD is responsible for the no spark problem as for the MF 14 I did get spark today but the engine refuses to start, even when I poured a few drops o gas in the sparkplug hole. After trying to crank the engine back to life for 30 minutes I was striken with a litle bit o smarts and put the compression gauge on there. 0 is the reading I get!!! I have NEVER seen a 0 reading before!??! tomorow ill try my compression gauge on a diferent engine to make sure its not broken and then back on the MF 14. If reading is still 0 ill tear into that engine right away to see whats up with rings and cylinder. Hope its only a ring problem because oversizeing costs 200$ + around here and thats not counting new piston and ring and gaskets and............

1st thing I would do is Clean and regap the points to .020.

If still no spark replace the Condensor.

If still no spark Check to see if there is 12V getting to the Coil.Check for a bad wire if Wiring is good Replace the Key switch.

If still no spark Replace the Coil.

Check all of the Commonly faulty and cheap $4-$15 small parts before you go get another $30-$40 Resistor Coil.

Coils and condensers are fine, points are pitted but I regapped them anyway and got spark. Now I tried to get pressure reading off the cyl. and it reads 0 :( tomorow ill make sure the gauge is good and test again if its still 0; cover me I'm going in :shoot3:
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#29 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted May 12, 2013 - 08:18 PM

Likely a valve stuck or crud under a valve holding it open.


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#30 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted May 12, 2013 - 08:20 PM

Before you tear in, you might want to see if the valves are moving. (Cover plate)

On engines that give me a compression issue, I often will blow a little air in the spark plug hole and see where the leak seems to be, the carb, the exhaust, the breather... Each will tell you something.
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