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antique tractors white wheel ballast

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#16 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted April 28, 2013 - 04:54 PM

US, glad to see you found your way back. If you could take a few pics, it would help us on the setup on that plow... Almost sounds like a little l-r adjustment is needed.

Well, here are some of the pictures of the setup.  It is a Sears Plow, and normally has a much higher attachment point for the 3rd link... However, when I raised it on the White, it would hit the back of the tractor so I built a lower one.  Also had to build a much shorter top link.

 

I'd appreciate any advice anyone can give me.

 

Smitty

 

White Plow 1.jpg   White Plow 2.jpg

 

White Plow 3.jpg



#17 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted April 28, 2013 - 04:57 PM

Smitty, have you run the LHS up on 5" of boards yet to help set it up?
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#18 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted April 29, 2013 - 05:03 AM

No, the attachment point on the plow for the lower arms is canted already.  I just tried to even the arms out.  The pictures show the plow in the raised position.  When I lower it, the toe digs in--but only a little, even on a recently plowed spot.

 

Smitty



#19 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted April 29, 2013 - 05:52 AM

Ok, my first step would be to run the left wheels up on 5" of planking. Then level the plow out.

When you put the point on the ground you should have About 1" air under the end of the landslide, about 1/2" under the back end of the share.
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#20 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted April 29, 2013 - 12:50 PM

Ok, my first step would be to run the left wheels up on 5" of planking. Then level the plow out.

When you put the point on the ground you should have About 1" air under the end of the landslide, about 1/2" under the back end of the share.

Okay, I'll do that tonight and try it out.

 

Thanks!

 

Smitty



#21 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 29, 2013 - 02:27 PM

Looks like the plow is tipped too far forward, try lengthing the top center link . The point will not help pull down the plow as much as the moldboard will .
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#22 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted April 29, 2013 - 09:57 PM

Ok, my first step would be to run the left wheels up on 5" of planking. Then level the plow out.

When you put the point on the ground you should have About 1" air under the end of the landslide, about 1/2" under the back end of the share.

 

 

Looks like the plow is tipped too far forward, try lengthing the top center link . The point will not help pull down the plow as much as the moldboard will .

 

Well, I followed both your advice, and it worked... picture of first furrow below:

 

IMG_20130429_190746_250.jpg

 

I volunteered to help a couple single ladies in our church put a garden in. 

 

They wanted to put it in the back lawn, and I didn't want to beat myself up with my tiller trying to get through the grass, so I plowed it first--but before that I had to widen the gate as it was only 36"--I cut part of the fence and put hinges there and made a double swinging gate.  Now it's 66" wide.

 

Anyway, I used my White (MTD) 1650 to plow with... what a joy!!  I hadn't ever used a hydrostatic to plow with, and it is so far superior to my experience with my Sears GT18 (shhhhh.... don't let it know I said that, or it will break down on me for sure!!) 

 

I only had liquid in the front tires (2 gallons each--or a total of about 30 lbs), and about 5 gallons in each back tire, plus chains, but it worked like a well oiled machine... no rearing up or losing traction on the front tires, and it was great not having to always be pushing in the clutch and shifting the transmission.  My only complaint is that the White has a lever on the side for the hydrostatic, and a foot pedal would have been easier to use... so... I just need to get my Ford LGT running, put a decent 3-point hitch on it (versus the flimsy Sears the PO welded to the back) and go to town.

 

Thanks to all for their advice and encouragement.

 

Smitty


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#23 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted April 29, 2013 - 10:09 PM

That looks more like it.
Glad you were able to get it sorted out. Was the next furrow even better since you could drop your tire in further?

#24 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted April 29, 2013 - 10:56 PM

That looks more like it.
Glad you were able to get it sorted out. Was the next furrow even better since you could drop your tire in further?

Yes, it turned it very well.  I actually started from the fence, which was the wrong direction as I needed to put the RH tires in the furrow... So I went up to the opposite side of the plot and plowed down to the furrow you see... worked great!!

 

Smitty



#25 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 30, 2013 - 03:16 AM

That looks great!! I love plowing with my Fords and they don't need any extra weight or chains to bury my plows ! And I can just step on the pedal and go as fast as I want. I love them and their 3 points, awsome combo for sure !!

#26 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 30, 2013 - 05:35 AM

Glad to see the furrow! I love plowing with a hydro, so easy to do.



#27 HALFSCALE OFFLINE  

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Posted April 30, 2013 - 09:06 AM

I'll take a few pics.  The "studs" for the plow are not even... I suspect so they can help the plow dig in and also work properly when one set of wheels is in the furrow.

 

Adjusting the arms on the White is kind of cumbersome--it has hydraulic lift and two horizontal rods with clevises that go to the back of the tractor.  To adjust either arm height, you have to pull the pin on the clevis, turn it in or out, and reinstall it.

 

Smitty

It seems your getting it figured out, If you have access to the White manual for your model, it tells you exactly the length of each of your lift arms for each of the implements offered, 12in plow, cultivator, disc ,etc ,etc.. It also tells you the length of the top link and which hole to use.


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#28 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted April 30, 2013 - 04:12 PM

It seems your getting it figured out, If you have access to the White manual for your model, it tells you exactly the length of each of your lift arms for each of the implements offered, 12in plow, cultivator, disc ,etc ,etc.. It also tells you the length of the top link and which hole to use.

So, do you use different length lift arms for different implements??

 

US



#29 HALFSCALE OFFLINE  

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Posted May 01, 2013 - 09:41 AM

No, the arms from the bell crank back to your 3pt arms are adjustable. The one side is set longer when using a plow to compensate for the drop of the furrow wheel, but still keep your plow level. There is also set at different lengths for different implements due to lifting and ground clearance . The arm lengths are different between the gear drives and the hydros because the hydros have almost a 5 inch longer wheel base.


Edited by HALFSCALE, May 01, 2013 - 09:42 AM.


#30 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted May 01, 2013 - 12:26 PM

No, the arms from the bell crank back to your 3pt arms are adjustable. The one side is set longer when using a plow to compensate for the drop of the furrow wheel, but still keep your plow level. There is also set at different lengths for different implements due to lifting and ground clearance . The arm lengths are different between the gear drives and the hydros because the hydros have almost a 5 inch longer wheel base.

Okay, I was just worried that different lift arms were needed for different implements.  You said the hydros have a 5" longer wheel base... that explains why this tractor doesn't turn as tight as some of the others I have...

 

Another question.  How do you set up the tiller so you don't rub the driveshaft on the transaxle housing when it's lifted up?

 

US






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