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Simplicity Sovereign


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#46 CubHorse80 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 03, 2013 - 06:56 AM

Ok someone stripped all the decals off the tunnel. The front frame has full gussets so it is definitely an early 700/7000 or earlier model frame and has the sunstrand hydro pump that was introduced on the 700/7000 series. And the hood off an early 7000, 3400 or 3300 series. It is 98% consistant with Pre 1977 model 7000...someone had just bee paying with the dacals.

The guy i got it from was the origional owner and he said he never changed the decals. but he did take the model tag off. It may be in the parts box he gave me, i havent looked yet.



#47 CubHorse80 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 03, 2013 - 07:03 AM

More Pictures and engine. How hard is it to rebuild these engines? i got the kits allready.

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#48 mtoney OFFLINE  

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Posted May 03, 2013 - 11:15 AM

It shouldnt be any more difficult that overhauling a K series Kohler.  I think you can get torque specs online for proper sequence and torque spec for the head, rod cap ect.  They make books for these older engines that step you right thru the rebuild process.  Looks like a fresh piston, rod and rings, inspect the crank shaft rod journel for damage from the broken rod, might have to be turned undersize or a new crankshaft found.  I have the same engine in my 7112(replacement for a blown 12hp Kohler) that was installed by the PO.  Its a smoke screen maker when I am mowing, I am planing to replace it with a 10hp Yanmar clone diesel as soon as I get my old Cub Cadet sold.  Make sure you have a good quality fuel filter before the carb, they can be a PITA to work on sometimes.  Thankfully mine doesnt drip or run crappy other than the oil burning.  Cheers  Mike


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#49 CubHorse80 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 03, 2013 - 11:37 AM

It shouldnt be any more difficult that overhauling a K series Kohler.  I think you can get torque specs online for proper sequence and torque spec for the head, rod cap ect.  They make books for these older engines that step you right thru the rebuild process.  Looks like a fresh piston, rod and rings, inspect the crank shaft rod journel for damage from the broken rod, might have to be turned undersize or a new crankshaft found.  I have the same engine in my 7112(replacement for a blown 12hp Kohler) that was installed by the PO.  Its a smoke screen maker when I am mowing, I am planing to replace it with a 10hp Yanmar clone diesel as soon as I get my old Cub Cadet sold.  Make sure you have a good quality fuel filter before the carb, they can be a PITA to work on sometimes.  Thankfully mine doesnt drip or run crappy other than the oil burning.  Cheers  Mike

Where would i get one of those books?  And that should be cool putting a yanmar clone in a simplicity!



#50 CubHorse80 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 03, 2013 - 11:38 AM

Also i am going to do a sediment bowl with a filter behind it for double protection. Those updraft carbs get clogged easily, dont they...



#51 CubHorse80 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 06, 2013 - 07:28 AM

I began to tear down engine, looking good. Will post pics or it soon



#52 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted May 06, 2013 - 07:59 AM

Also i am going to do a sediment bowl with a filter behind it for double protection. Those updraft carbs get clogged easily, dont they...

 

If they're running perfect, it's because you just worked on it and haven't opened the gas cap since.



#53 CubHorse80 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 06, 2013 - 08:01 AM

The carb was a mess! full of corrosion. I sandblasted it and rebuilt it. It was REALLY dirty.



#54 CubHorse80 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 06, 2013 - 08:05 AM

But right now, the problem is that when i was sperating the upper and lower carb, i snapped the 2 bowl holders. the little d rings that hold pin for bowl. I may be able to put some weld metal down and drill it or just use JB weld putty.



#55 skunkhome OFFLINE  

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Posted May 12, 2013 - 07:53 PM

I think I would just get a new upper carb body. I doubt you are going to be able to get the float to work right after repairing the hinge lobes. They are tricky enough without issues like that.

Edited by skunkhome, May 12, 2013 - 07:54 PM.

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#56 CubHorse80 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 13, 2013 - 06:55 AM

I got the JB weld steels stick and it seems to be working fine. My buddy has a gilson with the same engine, we put my carb on it after i fixed and rebuilt it. It seems to be running suprisingly perfectly! He uses it daily, it has been 3 days now and its going good. I am gonna give it a few more days then take it back off.



#57 CubHorse80 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2013 - 07:10 AM

I am almost done with exams, then i can finish engine rebuild this weekend. Once engine is done i can bolt it to tractor and see how my first simplicity will run



#58 CubHorse80 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 11, 2013 - 03:55 PM

I Have not been on here in a while! :(  I began to rebuild the engine, repainted everything, the put back together. One problem. the crank is bent. 250$ wasted on a rebuild kit and paint. :mad2:  Luckily... there is another 16hp briggs on craigslist that runs great! 75$! I will get it Saturday. Does anyone need a briggs 16 block? as well as all internal parts? bearing plates? camshaft? valves? lifters? etc... let me know. I am in need of a deck. so some partial trading would be great! I will try to sign in a couple times a week. Thanks!



#59 skunkhome OFFLINE  

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Posted June 13, 2013 - 07:35 AM

That's too bad! Glad you have a replacement located.

#60 skunkhome OFFLINE  

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Posted June 13, 2013 - 08:14 AM

It needs 3 lenses, anyone know where i can get some?

The system is wired for BA15D. I rewired mine to accept BA15S and installed 1156 bulbs backed up with coke can bottoms as reflectors. Now LED's are getting better and cheaper and are available in BA15D. I am still in the process of looking for weather proof reflector bulbs in LED BA15D. Original bulbs are NLA and the few I have been able to locate are plated in gold.

Edited by skunkhome, June 13, 2013 - 08:15 AM.





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