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Help For Wh Mower Please


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#1 hatedge OFFLINE  

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Posted April 19, 2013 - 12:50 PM

I have a mower with no blades. model number 5 0711 6. I would like to know if there replacement blades I can get at a local tractor repair shop but I dont know the size leght and other specs of the blades that go on the mower. Can anyone here help?

DSCF2255.JPG DSCF2269.JPG



#2 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted April 19, 2013 - 03:17 PM

Measure distance from 1 spindle center to another & this will be slightly longer than your blade length needed.  Like if it measures 20 1/2", then you need 20" blades.  The extra 1/2" is your needed clearance at the tips.  Then measure the center hole needed to slip onto your blade mount, and note whether or not you need the smaller holes outside the center hole for blade locking pins.


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#3 hatedge OFFLINE  

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Posted April 19, 2013 - 07:04 PM

Measure distance from 1 spindle center to another & this will be slightly longer than your blade length needed.  Like if it measures 20 1/2", then you need 20" blades.  The extra 1/2" is your needed clearance at the tips.  Then measure the center hole needed to slip onto your blade mount, and note whether or not you need the smaller holes outside the center hole for blade locking pins.

Is it really that simple? Wow! Ill get to that early tomorow mornin' and get me blades right away.... I hope. I went to me local shop and the guy told me he will not take them back if they dont fit.



#4 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted April 19, 2013 - 07:05 PM

Man does that deck look to be in very good shape for it's age!  Must have lived it's life inside out of the elements.



#5 Tankman OFFLINE  

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Posted April 19, 2013 - 07:07 PM

Looks like a 14" blade is the one you need if the deck is a three footer (36"). 12" blades are used on smaller width decks.

 

http://www.partstree...2-51220004-0001

 

Pricy but you could look at 14" blade sets at Home "Cheapo" or Lowes. 1st priority is the length, 2nd would be your center hole pattern. Appears you need blades with the center hole and two slots.


Edited by Tankman, April 19, 2013 - 07:10 PM.

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#6 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted April 19, 2013 - 07:26 PM

Is it really that simple? Wow! Ill get to that early tomorow mornin' and get me blades right away.... I hope. I went to me local shop and the guy told me he will not take them back if they dont fit.

 

Toss the deck into your truck bed/car trunk & be sure before you buy!


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#7 GWest OFFLINE  

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Posted April 19, 2013 - 09:33 PM

5-0711 is a 1971 model but Toro thinks it is 1972. The 6 on the end is not used but if you subtract 5 from that number you get the model year. 6-5=1=1971. You will see 6, 7, 8 and 9 on the tractor model numbers at the time also representing 1971, 1972, 1973 and 1974.

100776 Blade Center Used with 100777 L&R Replaced by Toro 101335 Kit
Oregon # 91-803 14.125in. center blade
Hole 5/8in.x3/4in. Double-D
14.125in 14-1/8" long

100777 Blade Left & Right Used with 100776 center blade Replaced by Toro 101335 Kit
(Oregon # 91-802) (Oregon Gator Mulcher # 91-954) 12.125in. L&R
Hole 5/8in.x3/4in. Double-D
12.125in. 12-1/8" long Left & Right

Make sure you still have the double-D center hole. Replacement spindle assemblies may not have it.

Garry

Edited by GWest, April 19, 2013 - 09:47 PM.

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#8 hatedge OFFLINE  

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Posted April 19, 2013 - 11:04 PM

5-0711 is a 1971 model but Toro thinks it is 1972. The 6 on the end is not used but if you subtract 5 from that number you get the model year. 6-5=1=1971. You will see 6, 7, 8 and 9 on the tractor model numbers at the time also representing 1971, 1972, 1973 and 1974.

100776 Blade Center Used with 100777 L&R Replaced by Toro 101335 Kit
Oregon # 91-803 14.125in. center blade
Hole 5/8in.x3/4in. Double-D
14.125in 14-1/8" long

100777 Blade Left & Right Used with 100776 center blade Replaced by Toro 101335 Kit
(Oregon # 91-802) (Oregon Gator Mulcher # 91-954) 12.125in. L&R
Hole 5/8in.x3/4in. Double-D
12.125in. 12-1/8" long Left & Right

Make sure you still have the double-D center hole. Replacement spindle assemblies may not have it.

Garry

That Gary is great info ill go back to the shop and see if they can find those part numbers in their catalogs ill be back with some news.

 

You wouldnt be able to tell me what coil I would need for the c120 model 1 c495 9? I looked at all the manuals I have available and only foun the c121 witch uses a different engine. The engine on the c120 has a sanded down tag an its unreadable. The coil is a cast aluminium type bot the car bottle type....also, could I just sswitch for a car coil like the one in the c121 or in thec160?



#9 GWest OFFLINE  

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Posted April 20, 2013 - 03:18 AM

The original engine in the 1974 model 1-0495 was a Tecumseh HH120-120180D and the ignition is completely different than what the Kohler's use. Is you engine a Kohler or Tecumseh?

 

The Kohler coils for battery ignition look like an auto coil but are different inside. Kohler uses an internal resistor to match the coil to the 12 volt system and it is a must have.

 

One way to identify the ignition system is to examine the back of the ignition switch.

Battery ignition should have an (I) (letter i) for the ignition wire terminal.

Breakerless, solid-state or magneto ignition should have a letter (M) for the ignition wire terminal and many also have a (G) terminal for a ground wire.

 

Garry


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#10 hatedge OFFLINE  

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Posted April 20, 2013 - 04:00 AM

The original engine in the 1974 model 1-0495 was a Tecumseh HH120-120180D and the ignition is completely different than what the Kohler's use. Is you engine a Kohler or Tecumseh?

 

The Kohler coils for battery ignition look like an auto coil but are different inside. Kohler uses an internal resistor to match the coil to the 12 volt system and it is a must have.

 

One way to identify the ignition system is to examine the back of the ignition switch.

Battery ignition should have an (I) (letter i) for the ignition wire terminal.

Breakerless, solid-state or magneto ignition should have a letter (M) for the ignition wire terminal and many also have a (G) terminal for a ground wire.

 

Garry

Actually I have both types of coils on my wheel horses ans one has the car bottle type coil and the other has a aluminim casting type. . As for the ignition switch ill look into it today and come back with the results. I really apreciate your help with all of this you are a fountain of knowledge and I'm very happy to have the chance to learn all of these infos. Thank you


Edited by hatedge, April 20, 2013 - 11:13 AM.


#11 hatedge OFFLINE  

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Posted April 20, 2013 - 09:45 AM

The original engine in the 1974 model 1-0495 was a Tecumseh HH120-120180D and the ignition is completely different than what the Kohler's use. Is you engine a Kohler or Tecumseh?

 

The Kohler coils for battery ignition look like an auto coil but are different inside. Kohler uses an internal resistor to match the coil to the 12 volt system and it is a must have.

 

One way to identify the ignition system is to examine the back of the ignition switch.

Battery ignition should have an (I) (letter i) for the ignition wire terminal.

Breakerless, solid-state or magneto ignition should have a letter (M) for the ignition wire terminal and many also have a (G) terminal for a ground wire.

 

Garry

you are absolutely right!! I had mistaken the engine to be a kohler but its a hh120 tecumseh. is there a way to replace the coil with a different one? Because this coil is unavailable



#12 hatedge OFFLINE  

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Posted April 20, 2013 - 11:25 AM

ok heres where im standing so far: I adjusted the gap between the coil and the flywheel trigger pins to 0.008. Then I connected an ohm metter to the engine head and to the wire that goes to the coil. I get a reading of 20 ohm... thats got to be wrong so I disconnected the ingnition switch and tested again and got a reading of 500 ohm witch I guess is good if I read the manual correctly. That also would mean that ignition is the problem and not the coil. Now I have to test the ignition switch to prove the short and if I find non I will have to pull the flywheel to check the stator.

 

All of this if I beleive and understand correctly the service manual.


Edited by hatedge, April 20, 2013 - 01:30 PM.


#13 hatedge OFFLINE  

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Posted April 20, 2013 - 12:27 PM

 

I read in a different thread that you know a way to work around them ignition modules? Care to share that knowledge with me? I would love to get that tractor working before spending 200$ on a ignition  module


Edited by hatedge, April 20, 2013 - 01:32 PM.


#14 GWest OFFLINE  

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Posted April 20, 2013 - 02:06 PM

Be very careful around that ignition wire. Your ignition is self powered and the ignition switch simply grounds the ignition wire to shut it off. Open circuit, not connected or not grounded and the engine should have spark. Do not allow any battery voltage into that ignition wire as that burns up the ignition.

 

You can just remove the wire from the ignition switch and isolate it from the frame and see if you have spark. If it starts and runs ground that wire on the chassis metal somewhere to shut it off. Then blame the ignition switch for it not running. Good luck with it.

 

There is a gentleman that has been repairing these systems if it is possible.

http://home.earthlink.net/~edstoller/

 

Garry






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