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Rear Tiller Help ?!


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#16 achomesteader OFFLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2013 - 08:43 PM

I forgot to say that I have checked the belt routing and from what I've seen in the book and in some posts it is on the correct way. Thanks. Roger.

 

Roger, I believe you missed something.  :smilewink:  The belt should go over the idler pulley on the tiller. Like this:

 

2010101081548_IMG_4179.jpg

 

Also, you will need to install your belt stops and adjust them correctly so the belt will stop when you disengage the tiller clutch.



#17 achomesteader OFFLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2013 - 09:01 PM

A 5" pulley!  Wouldn't that change my tiller speed.  My pulley is only 3".  That is the biggest one that will fit with the belt guide bracket (aka "belt release" in my parts book), without shredding my belts.  Might also explain why your belt is too short.

 

attachicon.gifDSCN3147.JPGattachicon.gifDSCN2204.JPGattachicon.gifDSCN2241.JPG

 

The drive pulley that you have on your tractor is correct for use with the older Simplicity and A-C 32" tillers. The one on Roger's tractor is correct for the newer 36" tillers.


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#18 hamman ONLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2013 - 10:21 PM

Ac, you were right I didn't have the belt run properly (DOOOOH !) I re- ran it and it still doesn't have enough slack to keep the tiller from running in the disengaged position. I checked with the book and the tension spring in the engaged position is to be 1 1/4" from the collar to the bracket which I have. No I don't have the belt stops installed yet. I only have one, but can make another. I don't see how that is going to stop the belt from running? The belt just feels to darn tight on the unit even disengaged. The idler / engaging pulley is down against the tiller shroud as far as it will go in disengage. I am going to look closer at it tomorrow, maybe something will click after I get the stops on take another look at it. Thanks. Roger.



#19 achomesteader OFFLINE  

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Posted April 25, 2013 - 06:02 AM

Ac, you were right I didn't have the belt run properly (DOOOOH !) I re- ran it and it still doesn't have enough slack to keep the tiller from running in the disengaged position. I checked with the book and the tension spring in the engaged position is to be 1 1/4" from the collar to the bracket which I have. No I don't have the belt stops installed yet. I only have one, but can make another. I don't see how that is going to stop the belt from running? The belt just feels to darn tight on the unit even disengaged. The idler / engaging pulley is down against the tiller shroud as far as it will go in disengage. I am going to look closer at it tomorrow, maybe something will click after I get the stops on take another look at it. Thanks. Roger.

 

If your belt is 5/8" X 96". it should be the right length. The belt stops are what forces the belt away from the drive pulley when they are properly adjusted and the tiller clutch is disengaged. In the drawing below, the pulleys and belt stops on the left side illustrate this.

 

belt-stop.jpg



#20 hamman ONLINE  

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Posted April 25, 2013 - 06:10 AM

Thanks Greg. I will get the belt stops on today and see what happens. I used to be pretty good a this stuff but have lost a step or two as time went on. The older I get the harder it is to make this old mind work. I will let you know how it works out later thanks. Roger.



#21 hamman ONLINE  

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Posted April 26, 2013 - 11:46 AM

I made two new belt stops for the drive belt and installed them. Thanks Cat385B for the picture you sent me a long time ago. It showed the correct place for them to be put. Aftrer instalation it works great. Just takes a little time and help from all of you. I also received some help from another group as well. I appreciate all your help. Thanks ! Roger.



#22 achomesteader OFFLINE  

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Posted April 26, 2013 - 12:45 PM

Glad to hear that you got everything working right! Properly adjusted belt stops are a must.


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