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Deck Questions.

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#1 dodge trucker OFFLINE  

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Posted April 15, 2013 - 06:36 PM

IDK if this machine is technically a "GT" or not, but it is a rider mower and a commercial one at that.

What I have is a Woods 1250  zero turn. 12HP Kohler Magnum, 44" front mount fabricated deck,  twin Eaton 7 series hydro's,  Late 80s vintage,  at the time woods owned grasshopper.

grasshopper sold the same machine (just a different color) as a model 1210 or 1212 (there was a "before/after date" there)


Anyway I have had this mower about 6 years, and love it.  I got it in non running condition cheaply, and once I drained the water and put gas in the tank, and pulled the bowl and sprayed gumout where ever I could it took off and ran. 


I have tried gator blades, wasn't that impressed. they have low, mid and high lift "stock" blades for this mower, I have stock high lifts on there now.  Other than a couple belts, I just put its 2nd battery in since I got it.  I love the turning radius, and how fast I can zip thru my yard.  The only thing I don't like is that usually I have to double mow because it sometimes lays the grass down and then pops back up. It don't matter how s-l-o-w I make the 1st pass or how FAST I run over it the 2nd time, I still usually gotta double mow. Even considering, I still get my mowing done faster with this mower than any other mower I have ever had.... the only things that came close are my Bunton 36 and 48" wide area walk behind commercial's.


I have cut ALOT more grass than my own yard since I got it, and have made more with it than what I paid for the mower...

My thoughts are that the "follower", (I don't know what else to call it) the half round "wall" that follows behind the back side of the cutting edge of each blade,  isn't all there any more, it has been "patched" by a PO.  I was thinking I could make a new follower with something like a PEXTO roller and cut what's left of the old one away and weld a new one in place. Would this have anything to do with the need to double mow most everything I do, with this machine?

#2 Cat385B OFFLINE  



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Posted April 15, 2013 - 07:17 PM

If the baffles are junk around the rear of your blades, it's messing up the air flow under there. Clippings dispersal and cut will be affected. Got a picture?


I can't find a pic online of the underside of your deck. But I think the baffles are probably to blame for the cut issues. My grandparents had an early Grasshopper model, cut was never an issue.


I had to repair the baffles on my Homelite, made a big difference on cut quality and dispersal.


deck redo 006.jpg


#3 dodge trucker OFFLINE  

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Posted April 16, 2013 - 09:36 PM

yeah I have run a few grasshoppers other than mine, and that was why I jumped on mine when I had the chance to.  I have an extra engine, extra sprockets, deck splitter gearbox, hydro splitter gearbox,  extra wheels and side chain covers,  and more, that oughtta keep this mower going for a LONG time. I still see them come up on CL and Ebay for as much as I paid for mine  with such issues as  dead hydros and serious engine probs, and almost double what I paid for running/driving machines.  this thing is still a super fast mower even considering having to double mow.  not as fast as the newest ones but plenty so for me.   though some of the newest ones (if HP ratings can be believed/ I don't wanna open that hornets nest)  have < 2" of deck per HP... 


the only parts I don't have as spares that I wish I did would be a pair of 7 series Eaton hydro's.   I have a pair of 11s here but are physically too big to mount.  I don't have the exact model number (I have an owners manual somewhere that shows Woods' part numbers but IDK if there is a direct cross reference to the Eaton PN)

I need to see who I know that has access to a Pexto roller that can roll a new baffle for me....



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Posted April 16, 2013 - 09:55 PM

I ran a Ferris walk behind yrs ago, 48" cut triple blade and it had the same problem your does, tends to lay the grass over, not making a clean cut.

Found the the blades were recessed too much in the deck, bottom of the blade was 1-1/2" up from the bottom of the baffles or outer shell of the deck.

I put spacers to move the blades down so they were 1/4" to 1/2" up from the bottom of the shell of the deck and raised the whole deck up about 1" to get the right cut height.

Problem solved, clean cut 1 pass.

Picture of the underside of a deck with blades, not the Ferries deck.