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New Guy, New 1000

bolens 1000

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#31 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2013 - 09:25 PM

Yeah, that does seem odd.  I can see the hole in the front PTO shaft splines for where the clevis pin is supposed to go through, but I don't see the pin in the PTO coming out towards the back that goes to the tiller.  Is it just not used with the tiller attachment or something and only for use with the mower deck?  Because I have one on my tractor, but I also don't have a tiller for it either, so...  Does the tiller PTO shaft just slide on there then and doesn't use the clevis pin to hold it on?

 

It also does seem like your PTO jackshaft is down all the way I think.  That might be part of your problem with the belts engaging even when the PTO is disengaged.  But, you also did manage to get the belts off of it, so...  IDK...  Also, where is the lower belt guard or did you take that off before you took the pictures so that you could get the belts off?


Edited by MailmAn, April 14, 2013 - 09:26 PM.


#32 Lurch5038 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 15, 2013 - 05:46 PM

I followed the suggestion on here and just pulled the whole thing! you're right it was down all the way, and most likely part of my problem of not getting it to disengage. I don't have a lower belt guard unfortunately :/

#33 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted April 15, 2013 - 06:07 PM

I don't have a lower belt guard unfortunately :/

 

That won't help your PTO problem either.  I'd highly suggest trying to get one before you put it back together.  Bob's (BHTS) might have one in stock?  Good luck getting the PTO shaft off of the jackshaft now that it is all off of the tractor.  Soak it well with PB Blaster and gently try to pry it off.



#34 Lurch5038 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2013 - 03:27 PM

Ugh!

I love this thing, but I'm about to pull my hair out.. (Thank you guys for constantly helping me with my issues!)

Everything I've heard says the tranny's in these things are bombproof, so I'm hoping that that isn't the problem..

It's done this to me twice now, it'll drive around just fine (I was dragging some down tree's) and then out of the blue while stopping between shifting it just won't go. The last time I let it sit, got back on the next day went through everything to make sure I hadn't kicked it out of High/Low accidently, and it went just fine. Yesterday when it did it while I still had it running I went through everything. All gears, high and low, including reverse. When I let off the brake/clutch the engine would bog down, but I wouldn't get any movement. No grinding gears, no nothing, just a bogging down engine whenever I let off the clutch. It even did it in neutral.

So I'm trying to convince myself this is a clutch issue, or operator error, although it seeming more like a rear end problem.

Am I cursed or what?

PS I still haven't managed to break loose that drive shaft from the tiller *or* the jackshaft. *sigh*

#35 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2013 - 06:57 PM

When I let off the brake/clutch the engine would bog down, but I wouldn't get any movement. No grinding gears, no nothing, just a bogging down engine whenever I let off the clutch. It even did it in neutral.
 

 

The fact that the engine bogs down when the gearshift is in neutral makes me think the problem is in the transaxle.  .....If the clutch was the problem, when in neutral, the engine should not bog down.



#36 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2013 - 08:18 PM

The fact that the engine bogs down when the gearshift is in neutral makes me think the problem is in the transaxle.  .....If the clutch was the problem, when in neutral, the engine should not bog down.

 

:ditto:

 

My thoughts as well.



#37 Lurch5038 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 25, 2013 - 12:12 AM

I know... I was afraid of that, you guys were supposed to tell I was doing something wrong!

#38 Lurch5038 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 29, 2013 - 05:13 PM

Well I don't think it's the rear end, I think one or more of my bearings is going and seizing up once it gets hot, although I'm not getting a whine or anything particularly troublesome before. Cold start and run and it works just fine, through all the gears high and low. Eventually it will get the bogging symptoms as I described above, and stop at some point between shifts or clutch/breaking (not a gradual thing, it goes from driving to nothing). Idles just fine with the clutch in.

So I believe that would leave me with 2 bearings as a potential culprit? #1704479 on the clutch side, and cone/cup bearings inside the rear end? Everything else should either be effecting it with the clutch in, or shouldn't be effecting it if i'm in neutral.

Is my logic sound there? And how much of a pain is it to replace those bearings?

#39 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted May 01, 2013 - 08:46 PM

Could it be as simple as something stupid like the gear oil in the rear end is low and/or full of water?  Maybe the top transaxle seal is bad and is letting water into the gear gase and it thinned out the oil so it is not properly lubricating the transaxle and it seizes up as it gets hot from running?  Just a thought, not sure if that is the problem or not.  I'd pull the transaxle cover and check the gear oil though and probably drain it and put new fluid in it.  Also try pulling the axles and grease the hub assemblies on both sides to see if that will help.  You can install new bronze bearings at the same time if they are bad and look like they could be replaced.  Good luck with it.  Hope you can figure it out.  Nothing sucks worse than a sick tractor and especially not knowing what the problem is!


Edited by MailmAn, May 01, 2013 - 08:47 PM.

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#40 Lurch5038 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 03, 2013 - 10:43 PM

Ugh I have a terrible feeling I just opened a can of expensive, time consuming worms....

 

Opened up the rear end, I'm not sure exactly what the oil level should be. the oil that's in there looks clean, although *everything* is gunked up and nasty.

 

gearbox.jpg

 

I don't know if the oil is high enough to actually lubricate everything. I know I don't want to tear down the tranny and rebuild it though..

 

In the process of tearing it down, I also got a better view of the bearing that I think may be my problem, and it's far from pretty itself.. 

 

bearing.jpg

 

How difficult is it to switch that bearing out?



#41 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted May 04, 2013 - 06:19 AM

Gears dont look too bad but I would definitely drain the oil and put fresh in.

When viewing the tractor from the rear there is a fill plug where the oil lever should be at. The upper gears are not covered in oil but when the tractor is running and moving the gears bring up the oil to the top of the housing to lubricate everything.

 

I still dont think the clutch is your problem....

It sounds like the gears are meshing at the wrong times occasionally which makes me believe you might have a broken detent spring.

 

Since you have the cover off try moving the shift rails in and out by hand, you should feel resistance going from gear to gear. If the shift rails slide easily you have a problem.


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#42 Lurch5038 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 08, 2013 - 07:19 PM

You don't think it might be the bearing just after the clutch that's getting hot and starting to seize. Gears meshing weird wouldn't make sense to me to only happen after I've driven for awhile, and magically fix itself after it's sat but hasn't been moved. Time to pull a drive shaft I guess and see how good of a fight I can put up with against that bearing!

 

I can shift it by hand with the covers off, although it's not easy. The internal bits and pieces look solid, just dirty. I'll replace the oil but I'm not sure what to replace it *with*. I believe I heard 90w gear oil? I can get 80w90 local by the qt so I'll probably go that way.

 

Thanks again for all the help, I may be broke, and so might my tractor, but at least I've got hope!



#43 Lurch5038 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 10, 2013 - 12:30 AM

I do believe I've found the problem!

 

Apparently at some point the roll pin on the brake drum fell out, which would allow it to slide a little ways along the shaft. The coupling on the drive shaft kept it from actually falling off, and while it was spinning there was no chance of it sliding too far forward.

 

When it's stopped though, the brake drum could slide *just* far enough forward and in between two of the bolts in the coupling, that would hit it and stop to the drive shaft from spinning.

 

Gonna hit the shop tomorrow and get a new pin, and I should be good to go!

 

(Oil changed in the rear end for good measure too)



#44 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted May 10, 2013 - 05:04 AM

Glad to hear it was a simple fix :thumbs:



#45 Nato77 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 11, 2013 - 10:03 PM

Happy to hear you got the problem solved! Even though you tore it apart farther than you needed to, at least you have a little schooling on how everything works to help with the issues you have (hopefully not for awhile) next time.

 

Did you get the tiller shaft off the PTO shaft yet?







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