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New Guy, New 1000

bolens 1000

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#16 Dieselcubmike OFFLINE  

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Posted April 10, 2013 - 10:32 AM

Hi there lurch and welcome to GTtalk! :wave:



#17 Lurch5038 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 10, 2013 - 04:35 PM

Thanks for the warm welcome guys!

 

Is the pic error my fault? I can host elsewhere if that's a better option.


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#18 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 10, 2013 - 05:59 PM

Thanks for the warm welcome guys!

 

Is the pic error my fault? I can host elsewhere if that's a better option.

 

Did you upload the pics directly to GTT or somewhere else?



#19 Lurch5038 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 11, 2013 - 12:39 AM

Uploaded directly, but my first thread got eaten by the inter tubes, so I was attempting with the boards attachments thing to use the ones that were uploaded the first time

#20 Lurch5038 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 11, 2013 - 10:20 AM

Okay I'll try these pics again for everyone

 
IMG_6400.jpg

b1000front.jpg

bolens1000.jpg

Is the spring assist there on the raise lever a normal thing? I haven't noticed that on other's pictures, and I have a sneaking suspicion that it's actually stopping me from raising all the way and letting the lever engage and actually hold the tiller high..

Engine:
engineplate.jpg

Bonus Tiller
second_tiller.jpg
tillerplate.jpg
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#21 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted April 11, 2013 - 12:55 PM

"Is the spring assist there on the raise lever a normal thing? I haven't noticed that on other's pictures, and I have a sneaking suspicion that it's actually stopping me from raising all the way and letting the lever engage and actually hold the
tiller high.."

 

That is not an assist spring.  .....That part is used when a mower deck is installed, and it will serve no purpose with any other attachment.

 

The spring assy is there to allow the mower deck to "float" over terrain.  .....The position of the lift lever will set the lowest position of the deck, but the spring allows the deck to ride-up over high spots that the mower deck's runners encounter.

 

There is a small hole thru the rod portion (approx 2" or so from the end with the nut).  .....When the spring is compressed, the hole is visible.  ....Putting a hairpin clip in this hole will keep the spring compressed.  .....This makes it easier to remove/install the spring assy. 

....If you leave the pin in while the deck is attached, the possibility of "floating" is eliminated.

 

I don't remember if leaving the spring assy in place will prevent full lifting of the tiller.  .....Someone else may be able to answer that, or you can remove the spring assy and see if that helps.



#22 Lurch5038 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 11, 2013 - 03:05 PM

Ah hah, that makes sense, that's what I get for making assumptions from looking at pictures while I'm at work..

If it's for a mower deck, (which I don't have) than it's not really necessary and could be removed? Guess I have some fiddling to do when I get home. Haven't had a whole lot of time to really go over it and figure out what's doing what yet :(

#23 daytime dave OFFLINE  

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Posted April 11, 2013 - 04:07 PM

Welcome.  I'm glad you were able to get the pictures to work and to get Bruce's assistance.  Glad you joined.



#24 Lurch5038 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 13, 2013 - 04:09 PM

Can anyone give me some newbies instructions on changing attachments? :D

 

Trying to get the tiller off. Blocked and dropped the tiller, removed the raising arm, took out the two pins at the rear, but can't seem to finagle the driveshaft to cooperate. It's not sliding off the front mount.

 

I've heard it's supposed to be a magically easy one-man process of unpinning and "pull it out the back!" But it's not going that way for me at all, and I don't want to start prying/pounding on things if I'm missing something.

 

On a slightly side note, is it normal to have a double pulley/belt on the PTO? It seems like all the 1000/1050 pictures I've seen, and all the parts I've found on ebay are singles.

 

I can take pics if needed



#25 MailmAn OFFLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2013 - 03:34 AM

The front PTO U-Joint is usually (although I'm sure you could try running it without this, but...) held on with a clevis pin and a cotter pin to the front PTO pulley.  Take that off and the PTO universal should just slide off the splined shaft that comes off of the front PTO pulley.  It might have been cobbled together by a PO (Previous Owner) who lost the clevis pin and maybe they just put a long split cotter pin in it or even a roll pin to try and hold it on the shaft.  If you are still having trouble with it, feel free to send some pictures and we can try to get to the bottom of it.  DId you read the manual for the 1000 as well as any attachments you are using?  Check out the manual section of this site, there is a lot of good information there.  Hope you figure it out soon!


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#26 Lurch5038 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2013 - 05:26 PM

Yeah it's the "just slide off" bit that isn't working so well :(

 

I don't see a pin anywhere? I do have a good chunk out of the PTO pulley though..

 

IMG_0166.jpg

 

IMG_0170.jpg

 

IMG_0168.jpg

 

IMG_0164.jpg



#27 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2013 - 05:30 PM

She looks a bit rusty... You may have to pull the PTO and take it off with the tiller so you can work on it better....



#28 Newpaws493 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2013 - 05:48 PM

Because   was typing as Docs answer came in and yeah, no real leverage I could see trying to work under there.

without possible damage.


Edited by Newpaws493, April 14, 2013 - 05:49 PM.


#29 Kfs35 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2013 - 09:00 PM

I have the exact same problem on my 1053. I soaked it with penetrating oil. I'm going to give it a couple of days to see if it breaks free. I might have to put a little heat on it, and give it a couple of raps with a hammer...

#30 Newpaws493 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2013 - 09:14 PM

I have the exact same problem on my 1053. I soaked it with penetrating oil. I'm going to give it a couple of days to see if it breaks free. I might have to put a little heat on it, and give it a couple of raps with a hammer...

I knew I saw this elsewhere but couldn't remember...anywho, if you're gonna bang I'd have a wood block in contact with part. IMO, but Docs Rx could be the way to go







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