On my MF 12G my clutch is stiil and it's hard to push in to shift into gear. Have any of you guys had this experience.
Mf 12g Clutch
Posted April 08, 2013 - 05:07 PM
- JRJ said thank you
Posted April 08, 2013 - 05:37 PM
I put a grease fitting on my clutch/brake pedal and it is now easier to push, a little lube helps a lot.
- ckjakline and collinmf12 have said thanks
Posted April 08, 2013 - 05:58 PM
Sounds like a winner to me, then you might try standing on it with both feet.
- collinmf12 said thank you
Posted April 08, 2013 - 06:40 PM
I've had that situation before. It was stiff, so I lubed it, and started to
work it back and forth. It didn't take long for it to move freely. I used
PB blaster or Fluid Film, or something like that. Good idea Doug had
there, to put a grease fitting in.
- collinmf12 said thank you
Posted April 08, 2013 - 07:54 PM
Yeah i will have to keep that grease fitting in mind. And i quess i will have to lube it up!
Posted April 22, 2013 - 04:04 PM
Speaking of the MF 10 clutch, does anyone have a good overview of how it works? I'm currently unable to shift gears and I suspect I've damaged the mechanism, have the variable system out of proper adjustment or that it's related to new belts.
I just received new Agco belts from Jack's Small Engines (thanks to posts from other members). It appears the prior owner had the wrong size belt going from the enginge pulley to the variable speed pulley (the belt from Jack's is quite large by comparison). I Put the new ones on, couldn't shift. I then performed the Clutch, Brake and Variable Drive as described in the manual and it's no better.
I've also read that the right side covers must be on to be able to shift. Can anyone verify this? I can only imagine that if this is so, it's because the cover sort of shapes the belt properly as slack is introduced when the variable pulley is moved forward by the clutch.
Lastly, I wonder if I may have damaged the clutch mechanism. I somehow managed to exert too much pressure on the clutch/brake pedal awhile back, and actually snapped the brake rod. I shudder to think what might have happened to the clutch as a result.
Posted April 22, 2013 - 07:46 PM
Hello CM, Welcome to GTTalk. We're neighbors of a sort, I'm in Wake Forest. I can confirm that you must have the engine belt guard in place to properly form the belt so it will release while the engine is running. I can't speculate what might have happened as a result of the brake rod snapping, but I'm not sure there is a built in limit to the clutch travel. Post pictures if you can, also make sure the tensioning pulley is adjusted correctly. I know the adjustment process can seem a bit counter intuitive, it doesn't adjust the way you think it should.
Posted April 23, 2013 - 04:27 PM
Okay, good. It surprised me when I read that, because I'm pretty sure that I've been moving a trailer around with my other MF10 without the belt gaurd. However, I'm pretty sure that the second MF10 also has the wrong belt from the engine pulley to the variable speed pulley system. I'm guessing because it's not the right belt, there's enough slack introduced via clutch that it doesn't need that extra help from the belt guard.
I have been through the clutch/brake/variable adjustments twice, though it's certainly not right yet. Each time it I understood a little more what I was trying to do, so a few more tries and maybe I'll have it down.
Since we are neighbors, I thought I'd mention that my wife and I went to the Antique Classic Power and Tractor Show in Benson a few weeks ago. Not a single Massey Ferguson garden tractor. I have a long way to go, but I'm looking to fix that next year.
Edited by CMBelyea, April 23, 2013 - 04:44 PM.
- HowardsMF155 said thank you