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Hh100 Finally Heard Her Run


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#1 robert_p43 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 07, 2013 - 08:17 PM

67 Sears Suburban 10

After working on it yesterday, I decided it was time to try again.  My son in law came by and we put the gas tank back on and checked for spark,  Pulled the recoil a few times and got it to pop 2 or 3 times.  After multiple tries, throttling up and down, choking and unchoking, breaking the old pull rope and repairing it using the same old rope, it started and was running for a few minutes non stop.  I am so excited I am beyond myself!  It sounded nice!  I started playing with the carb adjustments and it stalled.  My SIL noticed a good amount of oil coming out of the corner of the breather cover. Is this something in the internals or just the breather gasket?  I made a gasket yesterday but the material was pretty thin compared to the old gasket.

Thank You,

Robert


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#2 suburban 12 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 07, 2013 - 08:47 PM

Good to hear that it runs. Check your oil lever, I don't think the thickness of the new gasket would matter but just make a couple and put them on till its about the same thickness.


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#3 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 07, 2013 - 08:52 PM

:dancingbanana: glad to hear you got some life in it. As for the oil leak, I would make sure the return path (hole) in there is open and then I would check to make sure the cover is flat. It may just be a gasket thickness issue, but check the other stuff first.
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#4 robert_p43 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 07, 2013 - 09:12 PM

:dancingbanana: glad to hear you got some life in it. As for the oil leak, I would make sure the return path (hole) in there is open and then I would check to make sure the cover is flat. It may just be a gasket thickness issue, but check the other stuff first.

I am not sure what hole you are refering to. Is this hole in the breather assembly?



#5 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 07, 2013 - 09:21 PM

No, there is an oil passage in the breather /valve spring area that allows oil to go back down into the crank case.

I will see if I can find a pic.

This is out of the teccy service manual.
image.jpg


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#6 robert_p43 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 07, 2013 - 09:36 PM

Thank You, I will be checking that oil return hole as I plan on getting back in there before I try starting it again. I plan on finding those bellville washers, probably lap the valves and check the valve lash. I need a new pull rope, air filter and muffler.  I started it with no muffler whatsoever and was surprised it wasn't all that loud.



#7 superaben OFFLINE  

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Posted April 08, 2013 - 07:39 AM

Sounds like a great day, Robert.  It's always a highlight when hard work pays off. 

 

I'll second the return hole.  I had a Briggs engine that had the same issue recently, and old buildup had finally clogged it.

 

Do you have the 1 inch pipe muffler, round "pepper pot" style?  I've got the Tecumseh original style, or you can always run to Lowe's and get the Arnold's pepper pot.    http://oldpathsequip..._1-1024x768.jpg

 

Ben W.

 

 

 

 


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#8 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted April 08, 2013 - 07:53 AM

Good to hear them run again, isn't it.

 

While you've got that cover off, make sure the drain holes in it

are clear as well.

 

tec valve cover.JPG


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#9 robert_p43 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 08, 2013 - 08:41 AM

I will check those holes in the breather as well.  Thanks for that tip.

 

Ben, There is a reducer on the engine block and there was a rusty old baffle screwed into the reducer. The baffle was about 6 inches long with no muffler casing left.  It was just a tube with holes. I had to cut the baffle off and cut it twice to split it.  I wasn't to sure if I should do that with the reducer.  I figured those threads would be easier to rethread than the threads in the block. I am not sure what I would need as I know 1 inch pipe is much bigger than 1 inch.  I think pipe is measured on the inside so 3/4 inch pipe would be about an inch.  I will put up pics.  What do you sugest?

reducer.JPG

baffle.JPG


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#10 superaben OFFLINE  

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Posted April 08, 2013 - 01:35 PM

I will check those holes in the breather as well.  Thanks for that tip.

 

Ben, There is a reducer on the engine block and there was a rusty old baffle screwed into the reducer. The baffle was about 6 inches long with no muffler casing left.  It was just a tube with holes. I had to cut the baffle off and cut it twice to split it.  I wasn't to sure if I should do that with the reducer.  I figured those threads would be easier to rethread than the threads in the block. I am not sure what I would need as I know 1 inch pipe is much bigger than 1 inch.  I think pipe is measured on the inside so 3/4 inch pipe would be about an inch.  I will put up pics.  What do you sugest?

 

If the old "reducer" is rethreadable, I'd use it, unless originality is an issue.  It will be easier to replace if something goes wrong!

 

The muffler that you will need will be female threaded, too.  You'll have to get a pipe nipple.  I'd decide what thread the reducer is, then go from there.  I went out and measured my muffler, it is a smaller than 1 pipe, probably 3/4.  The Arnolds pepper pot is 1 inch.  Pipe thread messes up my brain. 

 

Or you could go "custom chrome" and make a totally new design!

 

Ben W.


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#11 robert_p43 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 08, 2013 - 03:00 PM

Well, I had it started today on the fifth pull so I got excited and ran into Grottoes and got an air filter from Al's.  Then picked up one of those $5.99 cigar mufflers from Ace.  I am pretty sure that is what was on there.  I pulled the breather back off and that drain hole is huge so it would take a lot to clog that.  I checked out the breather itself and I could not find any drain holes in that so I put it back on and tightenrd it down real good.  I'll keep an eye on that.  I started it and ran it around the yard for about 10 minutes, checking each gear in high and low range. Funny thing is the muffler didn't quiet it down one bit.  It sounded the same as before.

I also tried to find the belleville washers and the guy at the power equipment place looked them up on Sears Parts Direct.  All it said there was "washers-8 pack."  Hmmmmm...8 pack of washers for 9 head bolts.  He ended up telling me to check a local machine shop.  They looked them up and need to know the ID, the OD and thickness.  He showed me and he was looking on McMaster-Carr website.  I do need to find these before I run it to much.  I had trouble getting the carb adjusted so it doesn't spit and sputter at running speed and doesn't quit at idle.  I'll get it eventually.  Gosh, it sure is nice to see it running. 






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