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Need Suggestions On Pulling Pullies


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#1 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2013 - 09:17 PM

I have a pearliss 3 speed hi/lo that I would either like to refurbish or save parts. I started dissambly, Hubs came off easy, Brake drum fough some but came off, now the drive pully, I tapped it, hammered it, pried it, It is now sitting in a pool of PB. I don't want to damage it but I do need it removed so I can split the case. Any suggestions?

 

 

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#2 suburban 12 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2013 - 09:53 PM

I can't say much other than let it sit and pry one it when you have time to. I haven't had to take one off before, haven't had time to pull my spare one apart and pull the gear with the broken tooth out yet.


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#3 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2013 - 09:55 PM

Larry, Is there enough there to drill 2 holes through by the hub and use a haronic balancer puller? Put the nut back on. hold the pulley and give it a good whack with the sledge.


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#4 larryd OFFLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2013 - 11:16 PM

My suggestion same as DougT

 

larryd



#5 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted April 06, 2013 - 05:31 AM

Could try and do it like I had to on the flywheel for my Wisconsin. Get some metal or hard wood to wedge behind the pulley to put pressure on it. Put a nut or two back on the end of the shaft to protect the threads and then give it a couple whacks with a bfh. Keep soaking it with pb blaster though.



#6 Wade M OFFLINE  

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Posted April 06, 2013 - 05:32 AM

Larry,

 

Normally we would just cut or wash off a stuck pulley, bearing ect... But when you need to save the pulley because there is not a readily available replacement part you can drill a couple through holes close to the shaft (around where your screw drive tip is pictured). Then a couple through holes at the same spread distance in your puller.  Nut and bolt a couple fasteners and use your puller as normal. You may have to cut down the fasteners just so they pass through the pulley enough to get the nuts and fender washer on. The fender washer will help to spread the load so as not to warp the pulley.   

Another option is to make jacking bolts.  Cut down a couple hex head fasteners to fit behind the pulley to the gear box body. Tight enough that they are a snug fit between the pulley and the gear box.  Once you have the lenght figured out thread a nut on them and fit them in place.  Then hold the bolt head with 1 wrench and start unthreading the nut with another.  Make sure you have 3 or 4 of them.  Move around to each to keep the pressure even.  If you use the jacking bolt method make sure you do not crack the gear box case. If it is aluminum or cast you may want to cut the bolt to give you enough room to put a fender washer between the nut and gear box. Usually once you get the pulley to pop you are good, but is you have to push it all the way off you may have to thread the nut back down and keep adding washers between the pulley and hex head of the bolt.  Hopefully you were able to picture what i am saying. 

 

Wade 



#7 LilysDad ONLINE  

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Posted April 06, 2013 - 08:09 AM

Could try and do it like I had to on the flywheel for my Wisconsin. Get some metal or hard wood to wedge behind the pulley to put pressure on it. Put a nut or two back on the end of the shaft to protect the threads and then give it a couple whacks with a bfh. Keep soaking it with pb blaster though.

And some heat from an acetylene wrench. Heat the hub, not the shaft.



#8 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted April 06, 2013 - 09:58 AM

Thanks all, very good suggestions. After sitting in PB over night I gave the small sledge a try, bent the pully slightly, so I wacked the other side to get it back in true. The plan of attack will be.

 

1. I'll cut a couple wood wedges to place behind the pully, put the bolt on and wack it, Thanks NUTNDUN.

2. Same as above, but apply heat to the pully, Thanks Lilysdad

3. Drill a couple holes and try the puller, Thanks Doug T and Larry D

4. Get out the sawsall, Thanks Wade M.

 

Lets see what wins. :thumbs:



#9 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted April 06, 2013 - 10:15 AM

Thanks again. Wedge worked ! :dancingbanana:

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#10 Michiganmobileman OFFLINE  

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Posted April 06, 2013 - 03:51 PM

Another problem solved by the good folks at GTTalk :thumbs: . All these good ideas are now filed away for future reference. Thanks guys!

#11 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted April 06, 2013 - 05:14 PM

Thanks. Now for a lot more questions, starting with the best way to get the crud out. http://gardentractor...3a92-transaxle/






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