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Jacobsen With 301k Losing Power

ford jacobsen homelite

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#1 gergs84 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2013 - 04:43 PM

I have a Jacobsen/Homelite with a Kohler 301k.  It keeps losing power when it gets hot, and it runs very poorly.  I've done just about everything I can think of.  (Replaced valves, checked valve to tappet clearances, replaced condensor, replaced coil, checked points gap (.020) replaced fuel filter, replaced air filter, flushed gas tank 2 times, changed spark plug, changed oil/checked oil level)  I'm pretty puzzled here, and I'm looking for some help.  Anyone have any ideas?



#2 chris m ONLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2013 - 05:09 PM

First off :welcometogttalk: . Glad you decided to join us!

 

Couple questions, When does this happen? just driving around or is it when something is engaged (PTO)? Is this a Hydro or gear GT?

 

If you have replaced all those things with new or known good used ones, then have you checked to make sure the choke isn't closing even a little when it happens?

 

Are all the tins (heat shields) still on the engine? does it seem to be running hotter than normal?



#3 Guest_gravely-power_*

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Posted April 04, 2013 - 05:11 PM

Are you running a fuel pump? Also ck that your fuel cap is vented.


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#4 Arti OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2013 - 05:18 PM

Just a thought.. but my ford did that the plunger that opens the points would get hot and bind up in the block.

 

Also on really hot days I would run it without the side covers on , the fuel tank would get hot and the fuel would get hot. Also would check fuel line routing to keep it away from hot exhaust pipe.



#5 gergs84 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2013 - 05:30 PM

The machine is a hydro.  This is happening more quickly when you engage the PTO, but it will happen if you let the machine run for about 30 minutes.  (15-20 with PTO engaged or under load.)  All original tins, including muffler shied are still on the machine.  I have checked the choke, and it is not closing when this happens. (Also forgot to mentions that I replaced head gasket when doing hte valve job and tightened to specs in the Kohler service manual)  Have you heard of this problem of losing power/running rough taking place when breather hose is partially clogged?  Or when breather hose is not tightly sealed in the plate where air filter is?

First off :welcometogttalk: . Glad you decided to join us!

 

Couple questions, When does this happen? just driving around or is it when something is engaged (PTO)? Is this a Hydro or gear GT?

 

If you have replaced all those things with new or known good used ones, then have you checked to make sure the choke isn't closing even a little when it happens?

 

Are all the tins (heat shields) still on the engine? does it seem to be running hotter than normal?



#6 gergs84 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2013 - 05:32 PM

What did you do for the binding plunger?  Haven't checked that out yet.  I pretty much never run the machine with the side covers on.

Just a thought.. but my ford did that the plunger that opens the points would get hot and bind up in the block.

 

Also on really hot days I would run it without the side covers on , the fuel tank would get hot and the fuel would get hot. Also would check fuel line routing to keep it away from hot exhaust pipe.

 

 

Just a thought.. but my ford did that the plunger that opens the points would get hot and bind up in the block.

 

Also on really hot days I would run it without the side covers on , the fuel tank would get hot and the fuel would get hot. Also would check fuel line routing to keep it away from hot exhaust pipe.



#7 gergs84 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2013 - 05:34 PM

I'm not running a fuel pump on this machine.  (I had trouble with the fuel pump on my last machine that took me a while to figure out when it went bad)  I've checked the fuel cap, and also tried running the machine with cap on very loosely. 

Are you running a fuel pump? Also ck that your fuel cap is vented.



#8 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2013 - 05:43 PM

I have no issue with heat on my LGT165 closed side. Are you sure it's not vapor locking?


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#9 chris m ONLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2013 - 05:58 PM

A lot of good suggestions are coming in. Like Art suggested about the points plunger I have seen them even get mushroomed on the end that rides on the cam, did you remove or replace the plunger when you did the points?

Another thing is how is the wiring and connections on the points, coil and ignition switch? A bad connection leads to high resistance and can cause a poor connection when it gets hot.

 

You said you are not running a fuel pump on this one, did it have a fuel pump before?

 

And how about the carb? are the mixture screws adjusted properly?

 

Also I noticed that you said you "checked the points gap" Did you replace or clean them???


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#10 gergs84 ONLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2013 - 08:02 PM

How can I check for vapor locking?  Run it with a piece of insulation between fuel line and block/between carb and block and see what happens?

I have no issue with heat on my LGT165 closed side. Are you sure it's not vapor locking?



#11 gergs84 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2013 - 08:08 PM

Haven't checked the plunger yet.  Checked the wiring (even took all connections off to make sure they were solid/making good contact)  I never had a fuel pump on this machine.  Can I install one where the cover plate is?  (I have a brand new one in the box for this machine)  I adjusted the carb, but I'm thinking about starting from scratch in regards to adjustment.  I did check the points.  They looked pretty good, but I cleaned them anyway.  No luck so far.  (I've gone through about 6 gallons of gas checking stuff so far haha)

A lot of good suggestions are coming in. Like Art suggested about the points plunger I have seen them even get mushroomed on the end that rides on the cam, did you remove or replace the plunger when you did the points?

Another thing is how is the wiring and connections on the points, coil and ignition switch? A bad connection leads to high resistance and can cause a poor connection when it gets hot.

 

You said you are not running a fuel pump on this one, did it have a fuel pump before?

 

And how about the carb? are the mixture screws adjusted properly?

 

Also I noticed that you said you "checked the points gap" Did you replace or clean them???



#12 chris m OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2013 - 08:09 PM

 For vapor locking all you really need to do is make sure the fuel line isn't resting on the block or not running close to the exhaust. Also be sure that all the cooling fins on the block are not plugged up with anything grass dirt etc..


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#13 chris m ONLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2013 - 08:12 PM

Do you have any pictures of your engine?

 

On the fuel pump, did someone put a cover on were one would go? Also did you get the tractor the way it is now. Is this a problem that just started to happen to you?


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#14 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2013 - 08:14 PM

Did you clean up the head sealing surface on a super flat surface with sandpaper? You could have a warped head? Also if it has a Walboro carb on it , it might be worn out? The walboros are wicked fussy when they get worn.

#15 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2013 - 07:32 AM

I just read something elsewhere. A fellow was having a similar problem. He use a piece of conveyor belting to make a spacer for the carb to engine mount and his issue went away. Just a thought!


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