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#16 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 01, 2013 - 05:19 PM

As Moosetales suggests,the engine S/N should give you a very good idea. If it is the same as mine, and DH1's pic it could be a '66 model. If the label was the older adhesive decal there will be no rivet holes in the dash tower. A missing centre rib in the frame, extra engine mounting holes and aluminium cowl and nose piece are easily checked and would all point to a '66 model

 

:ditto: :iagree: :thumbs:


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#17 crokit OFFLINE  

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Posted April 01, 2013 - 06:18 PM

As Moosetales suggests,the engine S/N should give you a very good idea. If it is the same as mine, and DH1's pic it could be a '66 model. If the label was the older adhesive decal there will be no rivet holes in the dash tower. A missing centre rib in the frame, extra engine mounting holes and aluminium cowl and nose piece are easily checked and would all point to a '66 model

   Looks /sounds like I've got a '66.  And, no rivet holes  in the dash tower.



#18 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted April 01, 2013 - 06:29 PM

Is the dash frame Aluminum or Plastic? Also, if you look under the frame in the front, there should be no center rib for 66, 67 and on had the rib.

The parts 67 I had had the sticker, no holes, but it did have the center rib.
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#19 daytime dave OFFLINE  

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Posted April 01, 2013 - 06:37 PM

Welcome, glad you are here.


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#20 michael.kitko OFFLINE  

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Posted April 01, 2013 - 09:20 PM

Welcome to the forum. Glad to see others joining and starting in on a wonderful past time.
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#21 crokit OFFLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2013 - 05:56 PM

Well, looks like I'm definitley going to need starter work.  I don't want to start doing anything mechanical until I get a manual for it  I hate to keep asking questions of you folks, but all seem rather friendly and eager to help and it's much appreciated.  so, with that said, here goes:

 

  Please steer me in direction to get manual.  As for starter, looks pretty straight forward for removal.  I see just one bolt for the mount.  Is that correct, or am I missing others?   Should I remove shroud?  Fuel line goes in the rear of it and out the front.  Looks like it would have to be disconnected in order for shroud to be removed.

 

  Also, I've noticed fluid leak on each side of rear axle, on inside side of rims.  Fairly thick, kind of chocolate milk color.  The hub of each rim on the outside is exposed { no cap }.  Set in about an inch or so on each I see what appears to be the axle.  Seems as though this should not be exposed/open like that.

 

  Any thoughts much appreciated and thanks in advance.



#22 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2013 - 06:10 PM

Which tractor does yous look like.

 

Early

66 MF10 104.jpg

 

Late

mf10 005.jpg



#23 crokit OFFLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2013 - 06:14 PM

Is the dash frame Aluminum or Plastic? Also, if you look under the frame in the front, there should be no center rib for 66, 67 and on had the rib.

The parts 67 I had had the sticker, no holes, but it did have the center rib.

   

   The dash frame is plastic.  The frame has a couple extra holes in the engine mounting area.  There is no center rib on frame from front axle forward, but there is on behind the front axle.  Looks like two piece weld, one parelell  to ground, then angling up toward engine.



#24 crokit OFFLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2013 - 06:34 PM

Which tractor does yous look like.

 

Early

attachicon.gif66 MF10 104.jpg

 

Late

attachicon.gifmf10 005.jpg

Neither.  Mine does not have a lever on left side.  I do have one on the right side that looks similar, but I thought it was some sort of breaking machanism. Appears to have a dial/arrow at bottom that rotates on a cylinder shape knob.  Has a release button on top like the ones pictured that you posted. my  decal scheme looks just like the early orange one, but my paint is red/silver


Edited by crokit, April 02, 2013 - 06:40 PM.


#25 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2013 - 07:52 PM

It's 67 or later. I think they went to the rivet tag in 70ish.

If you could post pics, it would really help us help you.

#26 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2013 - 07:59 PM

   The dash frame is plastic.  The frame has a couple extra holes in the engine mounting area.  There is no center rib on frame from front axle forward, but there is on behind the front axle.  Looks like two piece weld, one parelell  to ground, then angling up toward engine.

So if you have a plastic dash and the bottom of your frame looks like this, that makes it a 67 or later

66 MF10 049.jpg

 

Which starter do you have

Starter/Generator like this

66 MF10 104.jpg

 

or Ring gear starter like this, 68 and later.

mf10 005.jpg

 

 

Neither.  Mine does not have a lever on left side.  I do have one on the right side that looks similar, but I thought it was some sort of breaking machanism. Appears to have a dial/arrow at bottom that rotates on a cylinder shape knob.  Has a release button on top like the ones pictured that you posted. my  decal scheme looks just like the early orange one, but my paint is red/silver

If you don't have the left side handle lift you must have the power lift, does it look like this?

$T2eC16dHJGQE9noMbTp(BQhGOuWM1g~~48_20.JPG

Control switch for the lift

001.JPG



#27 MFGray OFFLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2013 - 11:18 PM

The service manual for the MF10 is in the manuals section (see top of this page). There is not much covering the starter, although there are some good web pages which explain the servicing of either bendix starters or starter generators.

 

For a starter generator you have to take off the large screen and then undo the two bolts - front and back - holding it in place. For the smaller starter motor the shroud does not have to come off - there should be two bolts holding the starter front end cap to the engine block, the lower one can take a socket, but the upper one needs a flat spanner - both can be undone with the shroud in place and the starter can be slid out the other side.

 

The axle hubs are meant to be that way - recessed with a circlip holding the hub onto the splined shaft which protrudes about 1/4 inch and no cap. The leaking oil suggests that the oil seals on both sides need replacing. This is not too difficult, the Peerless transaxle manual shows you what you need and how to install them.The chocolate milk colour does suggest that perhaps you need to change the transaxle oil.


Edited by MFGray, April 02, 2013 - 11:19 PM.

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#28 crokit OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2013 - 04:36 AM

I'll b e trying to get pics up this weekend.  I'm more than a little bit technology challenged though, I'll do my best,


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#29 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2013 - 04:58 AM

I'll b e trying to get pics up this weekend.  I'm more than a little bit technology challenged though, I'll do my best,

If you need help with uploading pics to the site, check the bottom of my signature. Good video to help there.



#30 crokit OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2013 - 06:12 PM

DH1:  Do you have a picture of the right side of the ring starter style tracter you posted earlier??  Reason I ask is my tractor, while not having the long lever on the left side,  mine does have an opening on the deck that would appear to have had one there  at one time.  Also in that picture I  see a black knobed lever in lower middle directly below steering wheel Mine has that, but no indication what it is for.






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