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Clutch Alignment On Viking 16 (mtd 960)


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#1 motobreeder OFFLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2013 - 09:37 AM

I finally got around to working on the viking 16hp.

 

After re-installing the clutch, the arm (yoke) that pulls on the throw-out bearing doesn't line up with the shaft.

One of those - step back and scratch your head a while moments.

 

IMG_3345.JPG

 

I don't understand what I'm doing wrong.

 - the motor hasn't been moved

 - the bracket where the clutch pivots hasn't been moved

 - the gear box is back in it's original location

 

When the clutch pedal is pressed, the yoke rubs on the springs and spacers.

 

 

Hoping to get some time today to see if I can find a solution.

 

 



#2 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2013 - 12:03 PM

Can't tell what's going on from the small area in the picture but could it be an adjustment/ clutch linkage problem? Is there a service manual on here for that tractor?


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#3 gopher OFFLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2013 - 12:19 PM

Did you remove any kind of spacer or tube that could be put in backwards making the throw longer or shorter?  



#4 gopher OFFLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2013 - 12:30 PM

Why I ask looking at photo on different site. I do not see that spring cup or the two bolts on your yoke. Could it be the larger spring has slipped through the yoke?  



#5 motobreeder OFFLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2013 - 05:43 PM

Can't tell what's going on from the small area in the picture but could it be an adjustment/ clutch linkage problem? Is there a service manual on here for that tractor?

I read through the manual - didn't see anything regarding the alignment.

 

Why I ask looking at photo on different site. I do not see that spring cup or the two bolts on your yoke. Could it be the larger spring has slipped through the yoke?  

 

No idea on the bolts.  It wasn't my "improvement",

 

I'm wondering if the problem is caused or exacerbated by the clutch disk being well worn?

 

 

 

There is an MTD 960 manual in the MTD manuals section.  I'm going to have to pull the clutch assembly and check it again.

 

 

Thanks,

Dwayne.



#6 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2013 - 05:55 PM

Here this may help.

 

Did you put the stack of washers on behind the rod or under the nut?

 

 

This manual is a nice clear scan.

http://gardentractor...r-parts-manual/

 

Pages 8/30 and 9/30 is what you need.

Attached Thumbnails

  • Untitled.jpg
  • Untitled1.jpg

Edited by EricFromPa, March 31, 2013 - 06:03 PM.

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#7 motobreeder OFFLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2013 - 08:34 PM

The tractor didn't come with the stack of washers shown.  There's enough range of adjustment on the bolt so I just ran the bolt back and adjusted the clutch to allow it to engage and dis-engage.

 

Loosened the bolts that hold the motor and clutch.  It still won't line up.

 

 

 

Time to go back to basics.  I'm going to pull the clutch and verify the pieces are assembled correctly.

clutch break-down.png

 

Just seems weird that it would be that far out of whack.

 

 



#8 motobreeder OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2013 - 07:19 PM

When things get frustrating, push it to the side and re-visit it later.

I'm back to trying to get the MTD960 clutch working.

 

I'm wondering if the bracket looks correct?

Does the tab that the clutch lever hangs on look like it was welded to the outside of the yoke?
mtd960-yoke-side.jpg

 

A couple other views to help make sense of what it looks like:

mtd960-yoke-outside.jpg mtd960-yoke-inside.jpg



#9 motobreeder OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2013 - 09:56 PM

Looking at the problem a bit more.

 

I wonder if the clutch plate has worn too far?

This would require the arm to be too far forward when the clutch is engaged.

 

Next step - where do I get a clutch?



#10 undertaker OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2013 - 08:18 AM

I will compare that to mine when I get home. I think I have a clutch here that should fit it.


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#11 HALFSCALE OFFLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2013 - 07:27 PM

The last I checked , clutch discs were still available, but costly . The cub clutch discs are the same ,but you have to drill new holes , mtd 's are 4 hole and cubs are 3. Pins can be made by cutting the heads off of high grade bolts , grinding the old rivot pins off and punching out, then install cut off bolt /studs with a nut on either side.


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#12 motobreeder OFFLINE  

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Posted October 20, 2013 - 11:36 PM

Thanks to undertaker for suggesting that I'm missing parts, I decided to pull the clutch out and disassemble it.

 

Looks like I've found a problem.  The clutch-helper spring is broken and missing the cup-shaped spring guides.  Not sure where to find replacements.

IMG_00000468.jpg

 

 

I'm hoping there is enough thickness remaining.  The original thickness appears to be 0.313" (or 5/16")

IMG_00000469.jpg

The the thickness of the worn area is about 0.271",

IMG_00000470.jpg

 


Edited by motobreeder, October 20, 2013 - 11:40 PM.


#13 undertaker OFFLINE  

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Posted October 21, 2013 - 09:07 AM

Well that makes sense now...I will check my parts department, I may have the whole assembly if you like...but I would bet that those springs are pretty standard...some one on here will know.






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