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Sears St16 Restore Project


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#1 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2013 - 10:02 PM

I will start by saying I've had this tractor for close to a year and not gotten much done, so this maybe a long drawn out thread :D

 

So, bought this tractor last year from member on MTF who started restore, then lost interest. I paid $40 for a painted frame and a few boxes of parts. I've painted a few small parts over winter, but has been too cold for me to do much work. At this point, it's mostly clean up and paint so until we get warmer weather, my painting is limited so progress is limited. Would like to have it running for grass season as my plan is to use it for grass cutting, but doubt it will be done. This isn't a show piece restore, I'm just wanting to get it looking decent and back together.

The SSI is burnt out so I will be doing an Ed Stoller battery-coil conversion on it once together.

 

Here it was when I brought it home, pushed around on wheeled cart.

 

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Got some 50-60* weather today, pull her out and did some work. Engine and tins ready for paint.

 

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Sanded and primed some rough spots, then shot with Rustoleum Gloss white. I know it's not factory colors, but just wanted to go with bright white on this one since it's not a factory restore.

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Threw the wheels on it, this tractor was re-painted at one time so wheel and dash are yellow, they will be changed to white eventually. Also laid the grill, dash and tins on it. Got painted tie rods on and tightened down.

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So, just some teasers. maybe a few days or few months before I get back on it.... keep ya'll in suspense :firejumper:  :D

 

 

 

 


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#2 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2013 - 10:05 PM

Also, any ideas on colors to paint hood/grill/nose? Dash will get the white, just not sure what color scheme to go with hood and nose.

White hood with black nose/grill? Maybe yellow hood with black nose, white dash?

 

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Edited by TAHOE, March 30, 2013 - 10:06 PM.

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#3 GT5k6spd OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2013 - 10:31 PM

Also, any ideas on colors to paint hood/grill/nose? Dash will get the white, just not sure what color scheme to go with hood and nose.

White hood with black nose/grill? Maybe yellow hood with black nose, white dash?

 

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looks cool.   i'd go with yellow hood with black nose, white dash.



#4 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2013 - 10:39 PM

Just out of curiosity, why the white dash? It'll be harder to keep any kind of clean that way.... The yellow will probably hide a little more dust and dirt.

As for the snout, it looks pretty good with that scheme, especially with the white engine.

#5 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2013 - 07:47 PM

Just out of curiosity, why the white dash? It'll be harder to keep any kind of clean that way.... The yellow will probably hide a little more dust and dirt.

As for the snout, it looks pretty good with that scheme, especially with the white engine.

 

 

Most were the factory off white so figured just go with that even though I'm doing the bright white instead.

I do not like the yellow dash at all. Those yellow wheels have to go too!!

 

 

Here are a few different ones I saved. I may end up going with white dash, black lower grill/front half of upper nose. The back half of nose white and then paint hood a two tone using the white as base and adding yellow in some type stripping/ pin striping as accents, not sure. I'm kind of diggin the bottom one with yellow lower grill black upper, and white hood/dash.

 

SS16 black dash.jpg

st16 blACK GRILL.jpg

st16 BLACK NOSE.jpg

ST16 yellow black.jpg


Edited by TAHOE, March 31, 2013 - 07:48 PM.

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#6 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2013 - 08:39 PM

That scheme is close to mine.

ST16 Group (Custom).JPG
Gas Line (Large).JPG

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#7 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2013 - 09:06 AM

DId a little work last night, taped off motor, wire wheeled exhaust, shot with high temp 2000* black paint. Don't care for the pepper shakers, but it's on there so will work.

 

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I then separated the two parts of the lower grill for paint, you can see in the picture right above the screw in the upper mounting area, the tab broke off where bolts mounts and the bolt hole is stripped where it screws into the other half of grill. Now I know why that little screw is in there, held the two halves together. I may JB weld the tab piece back on there for now, that section will not be on there much anyway, I will be using this tractor for mower duties so belt rides there. I can always use the other lower section from my 16/6 also since it will probably never go back on with alternator and winch.

 

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I also remove dash for paint, it is much worn from hood movement. I have a spare dash on a parts tractor that is close to perfect so I will swap them out. Started wire wheeling hood....looks like electrolisis tank will be in the works, too much work!


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#8 Deck_Drive OFFLINE  

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Posted April 24, 2013 - 09:56 AM

You can run the deck with the grill section in place...


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#9 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted April 25, 2013 - 09:05 AM

Cut the old steering wheel of parts tractor, removed dash. It has a couple wear marks on side, but much better overall condition.

 

Anyone got any ideas how to fix the outlet nipple ( ignore the previous patch, this is junk tank). The good tank I have,  I noticed nipple got broke off, I was thinking of getting 1/4" brass threaded nipple, tap the tank, then use some JB weld as sealant and screw it in.

 

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#10 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 25, 2013 - 05:33 PM

Never done this before, but wouldn't a good plastic epoxy repair seal it better than JB weld?


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#11 GT5k6spd OFFLINE  

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Posted April 25, 2013 - 06:08 PM

Never done this before, but wouldn't a good plastic epoxy repair seal it better than JB weld?

 

i'd guess whichever compound withstands gasoline the best.



#12 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted April 25, 2013 - 09:49 PM

If you can get to both sides of the wall, drill the tank for a 3/8 bolt and drill a 1/4" hole thru a bolt.  With a couple short pieces of 3/8 gas line, a couple of washers, and a nut... you can make a very good and rugged sandwich seal on it.


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#13 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted April 25, 2013 - 11:06 PM

Looking very nice so far. I like the last paint scheme also, the white hood, dash and grill look good together.



#14 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted April 26, 2013 - 08:10 AM

If you can get to both sides of the wall, drill the tank for a 3/8 bolt and drill a 1/4" hole thru a bolt.  With a couple short pieces of 3/8 gas line, a couple of washers, and a nut... you can make a very good and rugged sandwich seal on it.

 

I had thought if I can get a barbed nipple that has a long enough end I could put a nut on the inside, but it's looks really hard to get to and I do not have any long nose pliers/needle nose. Also, the outlet of tank on the insisde has a raised portion with a screen in it so any threaded end would have to be fairly long. It will be a while before I tackle it, I may just go back with the original under the hood tank instead and forget retro fitting the under seat tank for it, still have to drill hole in frame for outlet to slide through.

I may try to find an gas resistant epoxy, I was hoping for a tight threaded seal, JB weld was just the "pipe dope" to help seal it.


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#15 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted May 20, 2013 - 09:36 AM

So, did a little work this weekend. Got clutch assembly on, motor mounted and figured out my next steps. Plan to pull rearend back out and check a few things, change oil, repaint some of it, new belt, etc.

Got a little frustrated though. I sorted out my "box" of fasteners a while back, separated out my tin bolts, woodruff keys, washers, snap rings, etc.....now I can not find them anywhere and I can't even remember what type of container I put them in. Even the ones I took off the parts tractor are missing too....UGH!!!!! I also am missing the stationary idler pulley and e-brake handle also, don't think I even got them in my box of parts. Luckily I have a parts tractor that has them so it's all good.

 

I have also had a few people ask about the recoil on the flywheel, according to PO this was all original, but I don't know of any of these tractors coming with a pull start. I looked at motor numbers and if I decode them correctly, the motor is from late 1976, this tractor is a 73 or 74 model. I have seen a couple responses from a couple guys who have bought replacement motors and they have stated they got a recoil and also a regulator mounted in flywheel tins. This motor has both so I'm thinking this was a replacement motor, not original. Not to mention, motor was white, Sears (Roper) usually painted them frame color so another clue to replacement

 

Oh, I decided.....lower grill yellow, front part of upper grill black, back half of upper grill/hood/dahs all white.

 

 

Man, looking at these pics, I noticed motor sits right next to tank/battery mount. I may have little wiggle room, but they are almost touching. My 16/6 has the actually firewall and tank under seat so this one is different for me.

 

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Uhm, little problem here? I fought this thing for 10-15 mins trying to align pulley and mount holes. Thankfully I had a complete tractor an realized pulley somehow got pushed in too far.

 

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Here is the two dashes I have to work with, yellow came off tractor, white is from parts tractor. White one is in better shape overall, yellow one has some deep grooves in side from hood wear, but white one has extra hole drilled in dash. I will probably restore white one. I can get reproduction stickers for dash, but they are like $25-30 so I will be taping these off and just using as is for now.

 

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Here is tin motor numbers....I think serial number tells me is was made in '76???

 

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