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Build Thread (Narrow Front MF-12G)


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#1 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted October 09, 2010 - 07:53 PM

Well, I am just getting started on this build, and I have posted it on MTF as well, but I want to share it here as well. I will try to ne be as long winded as over there though! With the addition of Alex's MF-12H to my fleet, I do not really need two 'matching tractors"... So, I am planning to build a row-crop MF12G (aka: MF12G-N/F or narrow front) This will be built off a spare 12G frame that I have so it can easily be put back to original. The MF12G-N/F will be very close to tractormike's build, however, I plan to re-work a spare fender pan so that it has larger and more "tractor like" fenders to clear the larger tires.


The MF12G-N/F will have the lift handle removed, and an electric lift installed. This will also be outfitted with a sleeve hitch to hook my single bottom plow onto, and a custom made mid-mount grader blade.

The MF12H from Alex will be rebuilt from the frame up and I will use the best of parts from my MF12 that I have now. (transferable sheet metal, tires & wheels, and attachments) The MF12G-N/F will be built with the best of what I have left between tractors and use my MF12G axle.

So for my Massey Ferguson's I will have this:

*MF12H with the the HH120 motor - Mower deck, snow plow, and my wheels & tires.
*MF12G-N/F with all luck, a OH140 motor, electric lift sleeve hitch, single bottom plow & grader blade.


For snow duty, and when done, I will have: (As well as the MF12H with 48" plow)

*1972 John Deere 112 with electric lift, a snow blower, and a custom built metal cab.

Here is the start of the MF12G-N/F build.... a lone, and stripped bare frame! I hope to have some more soon, but keep an eye out as this will be a long term build! :D

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#2 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted October 09, 2010 - 07:58 PM

Man you got your work cut out for ya.
Sounds like you got it all figured out just have to do the work.
Keep us posted, pic. too.

I think I said this somewhere before???

#3 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted October 09, 2010 - 08:20 PM

So for my Massey Ferguson's I will have this:[/I]
*MF12H with the the HH120 motor - Mower deck, snow plow, and my wheels & tires.
*MF12G-N/F with all luck, a OH140 motor, electric lift sleeve hitch, single bottom plow & grader blade.[I]


Just a thought here but why not put the more powerful OH140 on the MF12H?
Hydro transaxle and mower deck are power eaters, extra HP would be nice.

#4 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted October 09, 2010 - 08:28 PM

LOL.... I know, it's like an alternative universe! I am not sure if there are people here that do not see it over there, and it will be nice to have the progress over here as well. I am still in the early planning stages and this is where I "think out loud" the most... But, with better planning, the end result should be the best that I can do!

I need to think out the front set up a little more, as I would love to use a spare axle stub housing for the mount. However, I need to design the steering arm... that's holding me up right now. For the rear fender pan, I am debating using some pre-fab round fenders and grafting them to the rear fender pan. The back end will end much like the original fender's do, but these new ones will be higher and push further forward to clear the larger tires. They will also cover more of the tire, so they will be wider as well. My other thought was to section out the original fenders and make them higher and wider, but I am not sure if or how I can use the flaps in front of the tires. I "may" be able to section & re-arch them to clear, but I am not too fond of the entire design on them. They poorly mount to the fender pan in my opinion!

PS... The OH140 "may" go on the MF12H still.... I need to see how it runs and decide then. My HH120 is a sweet running motor and will fire with no choke or throttle. On top of that, the MF12H will be very stock and while the OH140 will look very close to the original motor, it will not be. Also, the MF12G-N/F will be pulling a plow and running a grader blade where more power would be nice as well... I guess it really depends on how well the OH140 runs and how I like the way it looks in the tractor.

#5 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted October 09, 2010 - 08:32 PM

It's better over here, easier to post pictures and focuses on Garden Tractors.

#6 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted October 09, 2010 - 08:37 PM

Question

If you put a OH140 or OH160 in a MF12Hrdra that has the long fuel tank will it fit or is the tank going to hit the rocker cover?
Anybody know???

#7 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted October 09, 2010 - 08:40 PM

BTW... here is one of Alex's photo's of the MF12H that has the OH140 in it. As you can see, it appears very stock in the Massey so it will be a keeper, but Alex did not have it running enough to really tell how good it is. Although, if it fits as good as it looks, I would not be against a rebuild.

As you can see, the tractor is a bit rough, but not junk by any means from what I can see. The fender pan looks pretty rough, but I have two good ones. If I cut one up for the MF12G-N/F it would be this one...

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#8 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted October 09, 2010 - 08:42 PM

Question

If you put a OH140 or OH160 in a MF12Hrdra that has the long fuel tank will it fit or is the tank going to hit the rocker cover?
Anybody know???


From what Alex said, the long tank will NOT fit... in fact, this tractor has been "modified" with the wrong tank because of that... HOWEVER, you CAN use the small tank with it. Alex said that he has another small tank that will fit.

**Note the hole in the hood of the MF12H... the hood that I need to use! I will have to patch the hole in the hood and use it on the N/F tractor because the parts tractor I have was beaten to death so someone could jam a large car battery under it! (on top of chopping the side of the cowl panel, and bending the lift handle... and cutting off that side of the hood catch) :wallbanging:

PS... while I am thinking, is there any chance that the 12H foot rests are the same? I know there is an extra tin where the shifter would be, but what is different on them? "Could it be used" or is it completely different? If they are not the same, I will have to hand fabricate a patch panel for around the lift arm on the 12H

Edited by FirefyterEmt, October 09, 2010 - 08:50 PM.


#9 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted October 09, 2010 - 08:47 PM

From what Alex said, the long tank will NOT fit... in fact, this tractor has been "modified" with the wrong tank because of that...
**Note the hole in the hood below... the hood that I have to use too! I will have to patch the hole in the hood and use it on the N/F tractor.


The short tank will fit it clears the motor (doesn't overhang).

#10 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted October 09, 2010 - 08:59 PM

PS... while I am thinking, is there any chance that the 12H foot rests are the same? I know there is an extra tin where the shifter would be, but what is different on them? "Could it be used" or is it completely different? If they are not the same, I will have to hand fabricate a patch panel for around the lift arm on the 12H


The footboards are different as are the splash guards, both sides.
When you pull the Hydra apart you will see the differences in the frames, rear 1/3 completely different.

Left side footboard has a knockout in it for the optional electric lift, both Hydra and Gear drive models have this.

#11 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted October 09, 2010 - 08:59 PM

OH... and while I am thinking of this, I have another "plan" for the N/F. The larger farm tractor's have a metal emblem on the hood for the size. I am debating if I should take some aluminum and turn down some bases on my lathe that the sticker would be placed on. This would give it even more of a larger tractor look.

Here is a photo of what I am talking about. Also to note, design cue's may be taken from these fenders when I modify the seat pan. (remember, I have a spare to fall back to)

Posted Image

#12 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted October 09, 2010 - 09:10 PM

MTF,..... what is that?

On a serious note, it will be great seeing your project progress. I also agree with Doug that it is easier to post here and focus more on just garden tractors :D

#13 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted October 09, 2010 - 09:15 PM

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Check out the headlights I bet this is made for sale in England, I remember hearing something about headlights on tractors needed to be mounted so far off the ground and that's why these ones are mounted where they are.

#14 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted October 09, 2010 - 09:39 PM

You know, you may be right! In the US, I think they were in the fenders on these... Also to note, the fenders are not the same on this one as the one with the lamps in the fender's. They appear to have an amber light or reflector and the fender is completely different as well.

Here is a US marketed one: (and closer to what I had in mind for the fenders too)
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#15 FirefyterEmt OFFLINE  

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Posted October 10, 2010 - 12:24 AM

Ahhhhh, so THAT'S how they do it!!

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Looking at a thread on WFM, it appears that there has been some problems with stressing at the bolt that the tie rod end is attached with. But now I know how they figured out the steering problem of getting the steering arm under the mounting point!

This was in a thread with a fix where a plate was made as a steering stop. I am unsure if that plate was made to face the front, as I have seen these tubes with that bolting block facing forward. However, if I plan to have it face the rear, I could plan for the steering stop behind the tube. However, I think if a stop pin was drilled and tapped to the axle shaft so that the stress is not on the tie-rod, it may work just as good. I would like to use that bolting flange for a tire down bracket as I have seen on a John Deere.




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