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Help Identifing A Possible Farm King Mtd 990

mtd 990

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#16 Oo-v-oO OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2013 - 01:31 PM

I can send you a manual if you need it via E-mail (if it is small enough to go that way).

 

Headed out now, will check in later.



#17 Canawler OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2013 - 03:24 PM

....Don't ask me how but the previous owner had an external 70's style automotive ignition coil mounted on this engine , and a wire coming out of the engine points cover running to it .

 

There looks to be wires added ( different color wires and terminal ) to the wiring harness coming off the ignition switch which looks to have been changed and are going  to where the ign coil bracket is mounted .

I hate trying to reverse engineer previous owner modifications because there to cheap to buy the correct parts .

 

There appears to be two Magneto mounting busses on the engine near the flywheel , but there isn't one mounted to them .

 

Yeah I'm getting frustrated . :mad2:

 

No need to get frustrated, we're here for ya. :D

 

I'll let someone else handle the manual part as I know the Briggs site does have some info about these engines but I don't remember where and won't get a chance to poke around there for a while.

As far as the coil conversion goes, if you believe the previous owner that the engine ran when parked, then chances are that the ignition conversion was done correctly.  There's definitely nothing wrong with an automotive style battery / points / coil ignition.  In fact, I'm in the middle of converting the Tecumseh in my Meteor over to that style right now.  My stock magneto coil is putting out a very weak spark and the parts are no longer available so I installed exactly what you have.  Whether magneto or automotive style ignition, the points breaking open is still the trigger for the spark. The difference is how the coil gets its voltage.  In the automotive style the battery supplies the voltage.  On a magneto coil the coil itself supplies the voltage as the magnets on the flywheel spin past.

 

My thought is to use what you already have in place, assuming everything checks out correctly.  If so, then go ahead and pick up a cheap automotive style coil (you did say that was missing, right) and try it.  It would be cheaper than buying the magneto and a new key switch.  The wire from the points should go to the negative side of the coil then the positive side of the coil should be connected to the key switch so that it gets battery positive voltage when the key switch is in the start and run positions.  To easily tell which style key switch you have, the battery ignition type switch would have a terminal labeled "I"  for ignition (that's the wire to the "+" side of coil) while the magneto style key switch will not have the "I" terminal but will have an "M" terminal (used to ground the magneto out when the key switch is shut off.)  The battery ignition switch will also have a "B" terminal that needs to be wired to the battery +.  Both styles will have an "S" terminal that connects to the starter solenoid.

 

As far as coils go, if there's no big resistor (ballast) in the wire from the key switch to the coil you'll be good with most any coil marked as "+12V" as they're designed for use with the full 12Vdc.

 

Again, if the wiring and switch are set up like this then you probably just need a coil.

 

Also, obviously make sure the points are clean and adjusted properly.

Good luck and let us know if you go this route. :thumbs:


Edited by Canawler, April 04, 2013 - 03:31 PM.


#18 Oo-v-oO OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2013 - 03:47 PM

Just to clarify - standard automotive coils, even those used in 12V systems, run on 6 volts!

 

It is a carryover from when cars used 6V systems - when they changed to 12V they kept the 6V coils and added a ballast resistor to drop the voltage while it is running.

Most installations disable the resistor when the starter is engaged so the coil produces a hotter spark. It is OK to feed it 12V (actually probably closer to 9V due to the starter load) for short periods of time but the coil will overheat and fail if it is fed a steady diet of battery voltage.

 

I agree, nothing wrong with using a battery and ignition coil system vs the original magneto. You just need to make sure the battery is kept up or the engine will quit.   



#19 Canawler OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2013 - 06:42 PM

From what I've read on some of the manufacturer sites, any of the coils marked "12V" are internally ballasted and are designed to be run with the full 12V. In fact, they say to disable or bypass the ballast resistor.

#20 Oo-v-oO OFFLINE  

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Posted April 04, 2013 - 07:41 PM

That is true. 



#21 Jlaws OFFLINE  

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Posted April 09, 2013 - 08:03 PM

Its alive!!!!! :dancingbanana:

 

Hooked up a cub ignition coil , cleaned the points , bypassed a lot of bad wiring and it started and ran  .

It also moves when the hydro handle is moved to the foward and reverse positions .

It needs rewired  , carb cleaned and rebuilt  , seat ,one front rim rusted through and tires ,  gas tank cleaned , and a lot of cosmetic work .

Engine did sound great with no smoke and even though the carb leaks gas it did idle good and throttle up nicely .

Looks like a rear driveshaft  ujoint is possibly bad as the driveshaft wobbles where it goes into the rearend .

Should make a good restoration project . :smilewink:


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#22 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted April 09, 2013 - 08:05 PM

That's great news Jess!  At least now you know it's a viable project worth going deeper into.


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#23 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 10, 2013 - 05:09 AM

That's a great feeling when you get them fired up. Have fun with it!



#24 Jlaws OFFLINE  

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Posted April 13, 2013 - 09:32 PM

I was wondering if theres someplace I can find decals for the 990 ?

I'd like to repaint it back the original Farm King orange if I can find decals , but seeing that the 990's were made by MTD for several outlets like Southerm States , Pennys , etc .

I'd be willing to paint it another color if I can find matching decals .

I checked Maple Hunter without any luck .

 

Daniel where did you find your Unico decals ?



#25 Canawler OFFLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2013 - 08:25 AM

This guy carries a few for MTD.

http://www.clickitan...wer-Decals/MTD/


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#26 HALFSCALE OFFLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2013 - 08:47 AM

Those decals are for the later tractors, the 72-74 dash decals were different.


Edited by HALFSCALE, April 14, 2013 - 08:47 AM.

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#27 Jlaws OFFLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2013 - 09:42 AM

HALFSCALE , is there a way to tell exactly what year my 990 was made ??

As i mentioned this 990 has a starter/generator , 3 lug front rims ,  long thin plastic fuel tank . 

Is there  anything else I can look at to determine the exact year ?? 

I looked at those decals and it appeared that the 16 Hydrostatic hood decal and the 990 dash decal with cigarette lighter would work .


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#28 Lost Pup OFFLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2013 - 07:12 PM

I would guess 1973. The specs match mine closely. I am currently restoring mine

#29 Lost Pup OFFLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2013 - 07:22 PM

This looks like the proper tin. Take a pic of your backing plate and post it.

http://www.ebay.com/...-/370795398574?

 

 


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#30 Jlaws OFFLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2013 - 10:19 PM

Lost Pup , I cant take pictures of the backing plate as all the sheet metal including the backing plate are missing .

But I picked these up and believe they will fit the Briggs just fine .

Looks like your doing an A+ through job on yours , mine will probably just be a B+ ...LOL

I plan on tearing mine down for body repair and repaint and will change out any bad bearings , bushings  or seals , but I'm not going to rebuild the engine which runs fine or rearend although I will change the fluids and get a new hydro filter .

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