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#31 Mjoe7 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2013 - 08:43 PM

Yes still available new. The project pictured I completed last year. Everything was put back new in the dash as was the wiring. No headaches when its put back together this way. haha!

Thats a huge help. Also with the paint. I just happen to deliver to a IH Case dealer so may be able to get some deals. I will dig into it a little tonight. Gonna start on the PTO then look at the travel lever. Are those switches still available? The tractor will actually start out of neutral so that could be an indicator of an underlying issues.

Eric

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#32 John@Reliable OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2013 - 09:02 PM



There is a drain plug on the travel valve, with an Allen wrench hex hole in it, I am told. Never did that myself, but the experts say that plug is TIGHT and wants the hole cleaned perfectly, then a really GOOD Allen wrench to loosen it. There is a prcoedure for draining the whole system, which IIRC involves using the starter to crank it over (spark plugs removed) to pump out the last of it. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong here....

You can see the drain plug in this photo: http://www.ebay.com/...=item2c6b6e4ef1

 

 

 

That's how it's done. :thumbs:

P.S.Shell Rotella 15W40 is what most of us use as a replacement hyd. oil, not to Case spec, but try to find 20-40 it's almost impossible.

 


Edited by John@Reliable, March 30, 2013 - 09:05 PM.

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#33 dropped82 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2013 - 02:52 PM

Got a good question, at least I think. I have a friend who is a fabricator. He is building me a sleeve hitch for my 226. The plans I gave him has the bar where the implement attached at an angle. Then I sent him a pic off eBay of a NOS sleeve hitch for a finished product reference and it is not angled. Here are the 2 pics below. Looking for some suggestions. Also the finished product pic is just angle iron where as the plans have flat stock with a stiffener welded on. I just want to make sure we get it right. Thanks uploadfromtaptalk1364932211389.jpg
uploadfromtaptalk1364932322726.jpg
uploadfromtaptalk1364932334712.jpg

Eric

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Edited by dropped82, April 02, 2013 - 02:55 PM.


#34 John@Reliable OFFLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2013 - 03:33 PM

Got a good question, at least I think. I have a friend who is a fabricator. He is building me a sleeve hitch for my 226. The plans I gave him has the bar where the implement attached at an angle. Then I sent him a pic off eBay of a NOS sleeve hitch for a finished product reference and it is not angled. Here are the 2 pics below. Looking for some suggestions. Also the finished product pic is just angle iron where as the plans have flat stock with a stiffener welded on. I just want to make sure we get it right. Thanks attachicon.gifuploadfromtaptalk1364932211389.jpg
attachicon.gifuploadfromtaptalk1364932322726.jpg
attachicon.gifuploadfromtaptalk1364932334712.jpg

Eric

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The problem is this, there are two different hitches,

1. K22 for small wheeled

2. K24 for large wheel.

 

I'm about 90% sure :D  the drawing is for small wheel, has short lift arm, long wheeled needed two more inches on the arm length. Also IIRC the angles were more on the short wheeled hitch so while in down it would rest on trailer hitch. :thumbs:


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#35 dropped82 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2013 - 04:30 PM

I think your talking about the lift arm. I think its just me but where the plow are any other implement attaches, it seems like its angle or turned. The more I look at it, it seems I'm looking at the drawing too hard. The lift arm has to be at 12 degrees for the short wheel tractors. It just seems that the implement mounting bar is also turned back a little. Also the drawing states 2 different lengths for the hitch. The big wheel is 4" longer.

Eric

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#36 gopher OFFLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2013 - 05:26 PM

The draw bar is not angled . the hitch itself is longer for 400 series so implement clears the wheels . the hitch connects same place on both 200 and 400. The lift arm is same unless you have long frame. When my hitch is at rest mine is bolted under trailer hitch.


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#37 dropped82 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2013 - 06:08 PM

Gopher you hit what I was trying to say. For some reason couldn't come up with the name. Just a little brain fart. Thanks everyone.

Eric

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#38 gopher OFFLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2013 - 06:13 PM

If you have long frame 400 you need to add 2 inches pin to pin on lift arm. Measure floor pan between seat pedestal and steering tower. If it's 13 inches short frame if it's 15 inches it's long frame. I made mine from angle iron and square tubing. the finished photo of lift arm different then mine I have the two sideways bends to get around parking brake drum but not the up and down bend by lift plate. My tractors are all short wheel. So I don't know if that's something for the 400s or if maker had something he had to go under.  Or you could do like I did build every thing but the lift arm mount it to your tractor. You can block hitch level and eye how match offset you need to get by brake assembly and what ever else is in your way.



#39 gopher OFFLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2013 - 06:46 PM

    I'm not sure if these photos come out or not. Still getting the hang of finding stuff on Ubuntu. if they come through you'l see I only have couple of bends in my lift bar.Must have something wrong I could up load Sears  catalog faster.So I deleted them .


Edited by gopher, April 02, 2013 - 06:55 PM.


#40 gopher OFFLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2013 - 07:20 PM

SAM_0045.JPG SAM_0044.JPG I'll try this.



#41 dropped82 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2013 - 08:28 PM

I just learned a few things here. That plate in the middle is for the travel hold. Is it originally designed to bolt to the fixed hitch plate? I may have him give the hitch and that plate separate so I can mount the hitch and bolt that plate to the fixed hitch. Then I can weld them together. That way it hits the mark everytime. Also, anyone have some measurements in about how much those bends need to be in order to clear? Unfortunately he is 65 miles from me and the tractor is at my house. If I have too I can take it to his shop. May make this easier.

Eric

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#42 dropped82 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2013 - 12:59 PM

Alright another question. Now I understand Case didn't originally design the 200 series for a 3 point, BUT I'm having one made. The guy making it is doing so as payment to me for some parts. He can make it look prettier than I can since this stuff is his job lol. I know the HH34 3point was made to fit either. I have the manual for it in pdf. My question is does anyone on here have that setup on a 200 series? What I need to know is the distance from the bottom of the lower arm mounting tabs to the ground. That way he can get this thing on the tractor and make it fit right without affecting the geometry of the hitch. Thanks and I know Case didnt really make these for 200 series but with having a pro fabricator doing this I think it will look great and function.

Eric

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