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#16 machinist OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2013 - 02:37 PM

I'm pretty sure the wheels are all supposed to be red on that 222.     They changed paint colors a lot in 40-odd years.


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#17 dropped82 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2013 - 03:15 PM

Yeah they are gonna get painted also. Machinist, do you have Onan or Kohler engines? Anything in particular I should keep attention too on the Onan's?

Eric

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#18 dropped82 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2013 - 03:22 PM

I noticed on the 222, the pto is squeaking when disengaged. It stops when engaged. I don't think it working. When I engage it with the engine off I can still spin the pulley freely. Any suggestions? Is there an adjustment to tighten it up?

Eric

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#19 dropped82 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2013 - 03:38 PM

I just scored 2 Case seats. I meet the guy next Sunday. One is good. The other needs a cushion. At least I have an original pan.

Eric

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#20 machinist OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2013 - 03:44 PM

I have both Onan's.   The 446 is a B43M, 16 HP.    The 448 is a B48M, 18 HP.    The only problem I have had with mine is points and condenser.   The ones available now are made on old worn out tooling that one company would no longer use.   I read that somebody bought the old tooling and started making them again.    I've had problems making the points fit and getting them adjusted.   Had to cut a coil off the adjustment spring to get them to go closed.   So, I'm looking for electronic conversions for these.   I am told that somebody has a kit that still uses the points, but has transistorized ignition from there, which reduces the current on the points and makes them last for ages.   Still looking for that. 

 

Engine heat shields are important for proper engine cooling.   I had some that were butchered on one tractor, which caused it to run hot.   The exhaust pipe shields were missing on the other one, which caused a vapor locking problem.    Made new heat shields and no vapor lock.    

 

These old Onans are out of production, so there are no OEM under-the-hood style mufflers to be found.  I'm told that someone fabs thsoe now, but don't have a source presently.    The muffler makes the hood get HOT!    It will cause second degree burns if you lay your hand on the hood!   DON'T!!    No, the mufflers for Onan generators won't work.  

 

The good part is, when these engines are running right they are really sweet and smooth.    The smoothness will make you hate a Kohler.   Onans are very long-lived, too.    I have read of them running for 2,500 to 3,000 hours and still going.   

 

The heads tend to carbon up on Onans.   I am told that this can make them run hot (higher compression), and eventually cause piston damage.   Case said to take the heads off and do the cleaning every 500 hours of operation.   Inspect valves and adjust valve lash while you are in there.   Experienced people say Onans like Autolite plugs better than Champions.   I found that to true for my 2 tractors and an old Miller welder with an Onan on it.

Keep your oil cooler clean.   It would benefit from a good solvent wash and blowing out with air.   Same with grass/dirt in cooling fins, like any air cooled engine.    They are gutsy engines, which you will like, but not real economical on gas when working.    My welder automatically idles back until you strike an arc, so it runs pretty cheap on gas.   

 

Hope this helps.


Edited by machinist, March 30, 2013 - 03:53 PM.

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#21 machinist OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2013 - 03:51 PM

Eric,

 

There's a good chance that squeaking is bad bearings in the pto clutch.    Or, the bearings are already trashed and something is rubbing in there.   I wouldn't push that issue, but tear it down and have a look before the clutch goes blooey.  

 

On the old Case tractors, the front pto clutch is adjusted with shims, a painstaking process.   The latest models have some new means of external adjustment.   Find a manual and dig into it, is my advice.  

 

I bought new seats, one from Tractor Supply, and one on eBay.   Both were made by Michigan Seat Co., and required some slotting of the mounting plate to fit the bolt pattern.    They were cheap enough that re-upholstering wasn't economical.   You might find a riding mower seat that would work, too. 


Edited by machinist, March 30, 2013 - 03:52 PM.

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#22 machinist OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2013 - 03:58 PM

I bought OEM parts from Brian Hildret; email him at: SalemPwr@AOL.com

Or, call him at 734-649-1781.

He can fix you up if you need clutch parts. You might find one on eBay, too.

Edited by machinist, March 30, 2013 - 04:00 PM.

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#23 John@Reliable OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2013 - 04:10 PM

Dropped, PTO adjustment is easy, but there are two different ones, so again that's why the right manual is important.

 

Machinist , below is the link for points and things you talked about.

 

http://www.kirkengines.com/


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#24 dropped82 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2013 - 04:17 PM

Machinist, your right about the smoothness. This thing has no vibration. Although the lack of parts still makes me keep my Kohlers close. I will check into the PTO tonight. The PTO only squeaks when disengaged so maybe its an adjustment that's making something rub. Hope to get that sorted out. It looks like a fairly simple task, I hope at least. I'm in need of a dash sticker for the 222. Also the travel lever seems like there is no "notch for neutral. The 226 has a spot where you have to push down a little to come out of neutral. The 222 is kinda of a guessing game lol. Once I drove it I figured it out. Is there some way of fixing that. The lever works good just seems too easy. If its not running there is no indication of where neutral is. Also I noticed the parking brake lever is missing until further inspection I found that it is bent behind the dash. Gotta fix that. How do I go about draining the hydro system and what oil are you all using? I know 15w-40, but is there any particular brand. Anyone using synthetic? Thanks

Eric

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Edited by dropped82, March 30, 2013 - 04:21 PM.

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#25 machinist OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2013 - 05:20 PM

John,
Thanks a bunch for that link! Had no idea where to find that.

dropped82,
Maple Hunter should have the decal, but check to be sure you spec the right one. Don't know about the lever detent, as I haven't been into that.

There is a drain plug on the travel valve, with an Allen wrench hex hole in it, I am told. Never did that myself, but the experts say that plug is TIGHT and wants the hole cleaned perfectly, then a really GOOD Allen wrench to loosen it. There is a prcoedure for draining the whole system, which IIRC involves using the starter to crank it over (spark plugs removed) to pump out the last of it. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong here....

You can see the drain plug in this photo: http://www.ebay.com/...=item2c6b6e4ef1

I partially drained mine by removing the oil cooler lines, but that doesn't get nearly all of it.

I use Shell Rotella 15W40 oil in my tractors, since it works for rear diff, hydraulics, or engine--all the same stuff. Same oil for my pickup truck and riding mower.

Edited by machinist, March 30, 2013 - 05:23 PM.

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#26 gopher OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2013 - 06:15 PM

I used Van Sickle on my JD 112. It was good enough. These are not show tractors. The 226 is a later model Onan and the colors are a little different. The 222 is more orange and cream or light brown. I want to paint the deck for the 222. The deck is correct for the 222 as the 226 had a white deck. I had a choice and the 222 deck was is much better shape and recently rebuilt. I will get the model years today when I get motivated to head out to the shop lol. I just got back from Napa with my points, condenser and plug for the 222. The 226 is my first Onan. I need a little schooling on it as I have no manual for it. Anyone can shoot me some knowledge on the Onan? It seems to be a little rich. It runs great though. I don't want to mess with it till I get a little more informed on it. Thanks again.

I'm not too nervous about making the 3 pt. I've heard that the lift cylinder under the tractor is a great candidate for lifting the 3 pt. I have a JD 140 for my sleeve hitch. It sounds like the sleeve hitch is a simple build for these Case's. Do you have some pics? Just was wanting a 3 pt around. I have a 3 pt disc. Unless I can find someone to swap my for a sleeve hitch disc I can't use it. The 3 point may be a lost cause. Heck the JD 140 3 pt is crazy expensive and rare also.

Eric

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I think a dealer once said that some times if they had spare Orange decks some times they would end up on black frames.Like John said Serial numbers is every thing on these tractors. 


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#27 Mjoe7 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2013 - 07:37 PM

The 222 is Desert Sunset and Power Red. Available at your CaseIH dealer. Don't settle for anything else it won't be the right color and you'll never hear the end of it. Use Case Paint! The wheels were all power red. You got a good deal.

The 226 is a 1984. The only year for Power White attachments and black frames. My personal favorite. I got two 226's. Also the first year Ingersoll was involved and purchased the company.

 

As for the Onan try and find a manual for your 226. It contains good info you should know and practice.

The Onan is a very strong engine especially in the torque area. They are very expensive to rebuild properly, but worth it in my opinion.

Keep the oil changed, decarbon the heads, do valve adjustments as stated in the manual, keep the air filter clean and use a oiled prefilter.

Keep air fins clean and blow them out with compressed air after mowing in dusty or windy days. I just do it after every mowing regardless.

 

The power screw is on the back right side of the carb. Adjust for smooth throttle response. The air cleaner decal should have initial settings to start from printed on it.

 

Keep us posted! You got a couple of nice Case's!


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#28 Mjoe7 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2013 - 07:50 PM

The travel lever slides on a neutral saftey switch with indents on it. Those may be getting worn and causing it to slide easy. Another possiblity is there is a spring that pushes up from the bottom to hold tension on the switch sometimes the tab/bracket that slids on the switch can get bent down and cause less friction on the switch. Bending that tab/bracket up usually helps. 

 

 

 

 

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#29 Mjoe7 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2013 - 08:13 PM

I hope this picture helps you.

 

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#30 dropped82 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2013 - 08:17 PM

Thats a huge help. Also with the paint. I just happen to deliver to a IH Case dealer so may be able to get some deals. I will dig into it a little tonight. Gonna start on the PTO then look at the travel lever. Are those switches still available? The tractor will actually start out of neutral so that could be an indicator of an underlying issues.

Eric

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